Yes, another damn Spark Plug thread!!!

Frikken interwebs keeps showing me Accel shorty plugs anytime I search for what I want.

Ive broken the #3 plug in half twice now while checking plugs. sick of that shit for real

I want the shortest OE plugs that have the correct depth in the head for a mild sbc. In other words I have headers and want the plug to clear #3 a little better.

Ive dimpled my primary as much as im willing.
Yes, I saw the engine masters video blah blah blah.

Thanks in advance

 

Little searching turned up an NGK UR4 6630 is about 1/4" shorter. There is also an autolite AR 133 or AR144 that looks way short as well.

 

I suggest getting one of those expensive but very worthwhile ball socket universal joints. They come either separate or already attached to a spark plug socket. Sure makes it easier.

Or get a cheapo one from Autozone...but I suggest a Snap-On.

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...PLA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:71700000043798748

 

Seriously nothing special at all. But it will fix your issue push your spark plug socket all the way onto the plug. Now use a ratchet an extension and a socket to turn the plug wrench that is firmly seated on the plug. Going in use a short length of fuel line slipped over the plug to spin it in as far as you can. Seat your plug wrench firmly on the plug spin it down with a ratchet an extension and a socket.If the plug wrench is seated you can't break the porcelain.

 

I have dozens of swivels. They dont make the plug nay a bit shorter though. I cant even get a socket on it at all. I have to use a wrench for #3

 

With my old headers I had one hole that I’d need to thread in the plug by hand, slip the socket over, then use an open wrench to turn the socket. I’m assuming this is why some spark plug sockets have that bolt shaped hex on the driver end.

edit: just read your most recent post and what I said doesn’t help.

 

They both broke when trying to get the socket on to remove the plug. I have resorted to using a shorty wrench. These damn summit headers are tight AF around #3

 

My main concern is that even with the high temp spark plug boots it is still making hella contact, and the plug boot has a flat spot already melted in it. It was missing today and I discovered that I had to change another wire out.

 

Yep thats the ones...The 6630s. Thats what Ive used in the past and just couldnt find them today at work. I think our internet has been limited or partially blocked recently on our work laptops cause I couldnt even pull up GMSB until I logged in to my VPN.
Now that im home they are popping up no problem

 

Gotta love those advanced auto Speed Perks. I just got (8) 6630s for $12.46

 

@Swearbody I forgot about this and am driving so not at home no pic. But this may help you I have a special spark plug socket made from 2. First half 13/16 socket other 1/2 is 5/8 plug socke5 cut and weld.

 

Id like to see that in the "home made tool "thread.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sle-30102

Maybe

 

Be in Kansas City until late sunday

 

I was having a brain fart driving on the highway, thinking about your plug situation, and thinking about if you ground the side out if a plug socket, like a sensor socket kinda then you would clear the heads on the ground out side.1/4 turn at a time until it was loose enough to take out with fuel line. If you put a bolt in the other end if the fuel line it's less floppy and easier to turn by hand, but anyway.Whie all this was going through my head I remembered that 13/16 by 5/8 plunge socket. It would do you know good because you are running 5/8 plugs you maybe able to do the same thing cut a 5/8 socket off just enough to grip the hex of the plug and weld a 1/2 or 9/16 deep well to that. So essentially 1/2 and inch of 5/8 socket welded to a whole 9/16 deep if 9/16 would clear the headers