Which crate motor to use

[Olin]

hi all! I’m thinking of replacing my tired old 78 k10 350 with a new crate motor. Any thoughts on a good engine to use? I’m looking for an economical, well built engine with more power than my old engine. It looks like jegs sells a well built replacement engine but the reviews say that lots of people have trouble receiving the orders they’ve placed!
Chevy has some nice looking brand new replacements but I would need to travel and have it installed by a specific dealer to take advantage of the warentee.
Also, I’m a newbie and would like something easy to install with minimal prep work.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Craig 85]

Have you thought about having your motor build by a local engine shop?

For me, I didn't go that route because the truck the PO had already replaced the engine with an unknown history block, so originality wasn't an issue and I didn't know the condition of the block. One of my biggest issues for me was California still requires emissions equipment on anything newer than 1975, so I was looking for a basic stock rebuild.

I found a few companies in California that could supply an engine, but after reading some reviews, my worry was what would happen if I had an issue with the engine. A lot of the rebuilding companies want you to send them the engine and they will determine the failure once receiving it back. I didn't want to go this route, so I opted for a GM rebuilt 454. It was more expensive than the other companies, but I know for the next 3 years or 100k miles, I can go to any GM dealership and have them check it out. I had a local shop do the removal and install for me as I had back surgery a few years ago. Their info was included when I registered the engine for the warranty.

So far I've put a few hundred miles on it and it runs great.

 

[Zoomalot]

Stay away from "RAMJET" 350 CRATE. ( Electronics Suck!)
9/16" and a screwdriver for me.

 

[WFO]

I've known several people, including my brother, that have had good results with Scoggin Dickey. Their stock replacement engines have a 3 year/100,000 mile warranty from GM, and free shipping.

https://sdparts.com/c-1029417-engine-transmission-engine-crate-engines.html#!

 

[Olin]

Have you thought about having your motor build by a local engine shop?

For me, I didn't go that route because the truck the PO had already replaced the engine with an unknown history block, so originality wasn't an issue and I didn't know the condition of the block. One of my biggest issues for me was California still requires emissions equipment on anything newer than 1975, so I was looking for a basic stock rebuild.

I found a few companies in California that could supply an engine, but after reading some reviews, my worry was what would happen if I had an issue with the engine. A lot of the rebuilding companies want you to send them the engine and they will determine the failure once receiving it back. I didn't want to go this route, so I opted for a GM rebuilt 454. It was more expensive than the other companies, but I know for the next 3 years or 100k miles, I can go to any GM dealership and have them check it out. I had a local shop do the removal and install for me as I had back surgery a few years ago. Their info was included when I registered the engine for the warranty.

So far I've put a few hundred miles on it and it runs great.

 

[Olin]

I was thinking of having a local shop rebuild my original 78 engine that came with the truck. I think I want to start fresh though. The harmonic balancer moves in and out when the clutch is pressed down. I think there is a very good chance that things have been scored beyond repair. The main bering is shot. Does this make sense? I know I can have the block honed, but what if the engine had already had issues before I bought it? Thinking that starting fresh with a warantee might be a good option.

 

[Olin]

Stay away from "RAMJET" 350 CRATE. ( Electronics Suck!)
9/16" and a screwdriver for me.

Thanks for the info

 

[Olin]

I was thinking of having a local shop rebuild my original 78 engine that came with the truck. I think I want to start fresh though. The harmonic balancer moves in and out when the clutch is pressed down. I think there is a very good chance that things have been scored beyond repair. The main bering is shot. Does this make sense? I know I can have the block honed, but what if the engine had already had issues before I bought it? Thinking that starting fresh with a warantee might be a good option.

I've known several people, including my brother, that have had good results with Scoggin Dickey. Their stock replacement engines have a 3 year/100,000 mile warranty from GM, and free shipping.

https://sdparts.com/c-1029417-engine-transmission-engine-crate-engines.html#!

 

[Olin]

Thanks, I was actually looking at their engines today. Good to know someone’s had good luck with them!

 

[rpcraft]

People rag on it but there is really nothing wrong with the good old GM Goodwrench 350 if you just need a basic build engine but for about few hundred more bucks you can get a L31-R 5.7/350 and all you need at that point is a proper cam, intake, carb, and electric fuel pump, because that block does not have the pass through hole for the fuel pump lever. The motor is a roller motor with 4 bolt mains. What's more to love for 2069 USD? Maybe the L31 2 bolt for 1899???

L31 - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12681432/overview/make/chevrolet
L31-R https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12530283/overview/

The Goodwrench 350 used to be a great deal at around 1100 bucks but in the past couple years it's come up in price a lot, to a point where you might as well just buy the L31 motor. The difference is it has the roller setup in the valley and also includes the vortec heads. I've also heard a lot of opinions about the L31 engines having better tolerances but I am no expert there. If I had not been missing an entire drivetrain when I found my Jimmy I probably might have gone that route. I probably would have also if I had know how big a pain in the ass LS swaps are, but truthfully I could have been done with the LS swap ages ago if I was willing to overlook the potential fire hazard from the OEM wiring under the dash and the holes and rusty spots, lol.

 

[82sbshortbed]

The L31 seems to be a good motor but for a 90's truck. For a 78 you'd spend a lot more money on intake ,headers,distributor, electric fuel pump,computer,flywheel and all the other things you'd need to buy. Bet you'd drop another thousand in it. I like the roller set up with vortec heads tho.

If you went with the period correct motor you'd be able to use the interchangeable parts and save a lot of money. Just my .02

 

[rpcraft]

The L31 would simply be a matter of adding a fuel pump, regulator, an intake, and a carb adapter plate (depending on your carb). Everything else bolts right on (even your older style AC brackets). Probably about 250 bucks total if that in extra parts. I spent more buying Edelbrock stuff but Jegs and Summit have their own branded items now that seem to be performer knock-offs. Not doubting you but what changed in 78 that was "computerized'? My 77 was a combination of the electric choke on the Performer carb, my right foot, the HEI distributor and the vacuum kick down for the TH350.

 

[Olin]

Thanks guys for the help .
I am realizing that a crate engine is not just as easy as buying one and slapping her in.
You have all given me some valuable info though! I’ll continue my search!
Also, I may have asked this already but what the heck is a “long block”? I keep seeing them listed with the small blocks. Never heard of a long block 350....

 

[Craig 85]

Here's what my long block 454 looked like. Tins and intake are not included. You re-use your existing ones.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[yevgenievich]

Short block is just a block with rotating assembly, while long block includes heads.