Where's your line? ("Too much rust")

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Chevrolado

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2012
Posts
395
Reaction score
117
Location
McKinney, TX
First Name
Dave
Truck Year
2006
Truck Model
Silverado
Engine Size
V8
Where is it that you cross your line? What is "too much rust" to you?

I ask this because I'm looking at an 85 Burb that's got more rust than I really would care to conquer.. however, because of its back-story and historical memories tied into it with my inlaw family - it makes me want to throw caution to the wind (and money) and take it on anyways.

So I just have to ask you all.. where is the line for you between "I can handle that" or "That's just a waste of time and money"?

Cheers
 

Arkansas_V8

Proud Redneck
Joined
Jul 1, 2019
Posts
3,022
Reaction score
3,961
Location
Springdale, Arkansas
First Name
Brent
Truck Year
88
Truck Model
V20 Suburban
Engine Size
5.7
Frame, body swaps are easy. Solid bones for me, are all I need.

But rust down here isn't really a thing. My suburban is from Illinois though. Rusty quarters, and rockers.

Had solid bones though.
 
Last edited:

Chevrolado

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2012
Posts
395
Reaction score
117
Location
McKinney, TX
First Name
Dave
Truck Year
2006
Truck Model
Silverado
Engine Size
V8
This is sort of how I'm feeling too.. the frame is solid. Body rust is what is going on. But its not just in the usual rocker places with easy replacements.. Some harder places like door jam, window frame, harder stuff. So the level of difficulty (aka "money") goes up a bit.

Thanks for voicing your opinion though - :) - I agree.
 

Arkansas_V8

Proud Redneck
Joined
Jul 1, 2019
Posts
3,022
Reaction score
3,961
Location
Springdale, Arkansas
First Name
Brent
Truck Year
88
Truck Model
V20 Suburban
Engine Size
5.7
This is sort of how I'm feeling too.. the frame is solid. Body rust is what is going on. But its not just in the usual rocker places with easy replacements.. Some harder places like door jam, window frame, harder stuff. So the level of difficulty (aka "money") goes up a bit.

Thanks for voicing your opinion though - :) - I agree.


Sorry to hear that. That is alot of work. But with the history, a body swap is almost the only reasonable way to try and save it.
 

RecklessWOT

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2015
Posts
2,549
Reaction score
4,744
Location
New Hampshire
First Name
Kevin
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V10 Suburban Silverado
Engine Size
350 TBI
As long as the frame is mostly solid I'd be fine. A few holes can be patched, but if it's just a body sitting on top of sheets of scale with nowhere to bolt springs to etc, I'd walk away from that.

Any part of the body can be patched, and if it's too far gone can be replaced. But if the ENTIRE body is rotten, I wouldn't waste my time with that either. Rusty door jambs aren't SO bad and neither is a little window channel rust, but if like the cowl and firewall are gone underneath that window channel then that's a different story. A pickup is easy enough to just throw a new cab or bed on, but the burb is one big piece. Anywhere too bad to patch can always be cut out of a donor truck and welded in though.

I feel like with the truck being sentimental a full body swap isn't in order, I mean if you do that it's basically not the same truck anymore. Sure the frame and driveline are the same, but most people don't have many fond childhood memories of their frame...
 

Arkansas_V8

Proud Redneck
Joined
Jul 1, 2019
Posts
3,022
Reaction score
3,961
Location
Springdale, Arkansas
First Name
Brent
Truck Year
88
Truck Model
V20 Suburban
Engine Size
5.7
As long as the frame is mostly solid I'd be fine. A few holes can be patched, but if it's just a body sitting on top of sheets of scale with nowhere to bolt springs to etc, I'd walk away from that.

Any part of the body can be patched, and if it's too far gone can be replaced. But if the ENTIRE body is rotten, I wouldn't waste my time with that either. Rusty door jambs aren't SO bad and neither is a little window channel rust, but if like the cowl and firewall are gone underneath that window channel then that's a different story. A pickup is easy enough to just throw a new cab or bed on, but the burb is one big piece. Anywhere too bad to patch can always be cut out of a donor truck and welded in though. I feel like with the truck being sentimental a full body swap isn't in order, I mean if you do that it's basically not the same truck anymore. Sure the frame and driveline are the same, but most people don't have many fond childhood memories of their frame...


Hey I could see the frame through my stepdads floor as a kid. Fond memories of using it to not fall through. LOL
 

Chevrolado

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2012
Posts
395
Reaction score
117
Location
McKinney, TX
First Name
Dave
Truck Year
2006
Truck Model
Silverado
Engine Size
V8
As long as the frame is mostly solid I'd be fine. A few holes can be patched, but if it's just a body sitting on top of sheets of scale with nowhere to bolt springs to etc, I'd walk away from that. Any part of the body can be patched, and if it's too far gone can be replaced. But if the ENTIRE body is rotten, I wouldn't waste my time with that either. Rusty door jambs aren't SO bad and neither is a little window channel rust, but if like the cowl and firewall are gone underneath that window channel then that's a different. A pickup is easy enough to just throw a new cab or bed on, but the burb is one big piece. Anywhere too bad to patch can always be cut out of a donor truck and welded in though
Great point on the single piece body of the Burb. Yep.. That was my thought - worse case, I can always buy a donor decent body and start cutting parts out and merge the two.
The one I'm looking at has clean, nice, interior, the fun trim level good options, good frame, and an okay motor.. so it's really just the body and old suspension parts I'm concerned with.
I'll have to check out the cowl/firewall condition. Haven't seen that yet. Good insight.
 

Chevrolado

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2012
Posts
395
Reaction score
117
Location
McKinney, TX
First Name
Dave
Truck Year
2006
Truck Model
Silverado
Engine Size
V8
I feel like with the truck being sentimental a full body swap isn't in order, I mean if you do that it's basically not the same truck anymore. Sure the frame and driveline are the same, but most people don't have many fond childhood memories of their frame...
hahah this is true. But if I swap over all the interior from the old to a new body.. the memories could still be in tact, right? hah.
 

legopnuematic

Licensed Junk Dealer
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2016
Posts
1,736
Reaction score
3,733
Location
MO
First Name
Spencer
Truck Year
1971, 1̶9̶7̶4, 1976, 1979,1̶9̶8̶5, 2002
Truck Model
Dart Swinger, Sierra 10, C10 Cheyenne, C10 Big Ten, Silverado 10, Ram 2500
Engine Size
225/6, 350 c.i., 350 c.i., 5.9l Cummins
It all depends on your level of ability to do the repairs. Personally I don't like the idea of condemning things that are savable. This is my friends 75' K5 that I just started on the metal work on, it is getting new inner/outer rockers, kick panels, wheel tubs, wheel arches, lower bedsides, top of the tailgate, front fenders, hood, top rails, door bottoms. It is otherwise a really solid truck, the floor is really nice, firewall decent, a-pillars are nice too. Its worth it since its a full convertible blazer.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach

Other rocker is a lot worse than this one.
You must be registered for see images attach

Then here is my 79 Big Ten, which I have/will do the floors, toe board, kick panels, floor braces, floor side supports, nearly the whole firewall, inner/outer rockers, A-pillars, B-pillar roof seam delete, graft a back of a cab in, inner/outer cab corners, inner fenders. Thats not even including the bed (since it was too far gone even by my standards.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
 

legopnuematic

Licensed Junk Dealer
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2016
Posts
1,736
Reaction score
3,733
Location
MO
First Name
Spencer
Truck Year
1971, 1̶9̶7̶4, 1976, 1979,1̶9̶8̶5, 2002
Truck Model
Dart Swinger, Sierra 10, C10 Cheyenne, C10 Big Ten, Silverado 10, Ram 2500
Engine Size
225/6, 350 c.i., 350 c.i., 5.9l Cummins
If the truck is sentimental, It may be worth it. Pictures would help in this case quite a bit
You must be registered for see images attach
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

Automobile Hoarder
Joined
Jan 23, 2016
Posts
5,848
Reaction score
2,387
Location
Mississippi
First Name
Jesse
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V1500 Jimmy
Engine Size
350
Is the style sentimental to you or the actual vehicle itself? If it’s the latter, you have to do it. If it’s just Suburbans, it’s not as strong of a commitment to doing it in my opinion. That being said, if the vehicle is just your pet project and not something that you have a specified demand for at this time, I’d take it. It’s one thing if it’s in traction, and you desperately need it, but it’s a totally different thing if your plan is to go in there at night or weekends/holidays to work on it till it gets done. Finally, I would consider space (do you have enough where this won’t be a problem) and cost (can I acquire this and do the work without screwing my pocketbook). Too much rust is when it’s lost structural integrity due to the rust, but if it’s mostly solid, has rust in tricky areas, but it’s not drowning in it, and it passes the aforementioned hurdles, I’d say get it. Pictures would be helpful, too, if you could get some.
 

Arkansas_V8

Proud Redneck
Joined
Jul 1, 2019
Posts
3,022
Reaction score
3,961
Location
Springdale, Arkansas
First Name
Brent
Truck Year
88
Truck Model
V20 Suburban
Engine Size
5.7
As long as the frame is mostly solid I'd be fine. A few holes can be patched, but if it's just a body sitting on top of sheets of scale with nowhere to bolt springs to etc, I'd walk away from that.

Any part of the body can be patched, and if it's too far gone can be replaced. But if the ENTIRE body is rotten, I wouldn't waste my time with that either. Rusty door jambs aren't SO bad and neither is a little window channel rust, but if like the cowl and firewall are gone underneath that window channel then that's a different story. A pickup is easy enough to just throw a new cab or bed on, but the burb is one big piece. Anywhere too bad to patch can always be cut out of a donor truck and welded in though.

I feel like with the truck being sentimental a full body swap isn't in order, I mean if you do that it's basically not the same truck anymore. Sure the frame and driveline are the same, but most people don't have many fond childhood memories of their frame...


I have thought a lot about it.

Those memories are not him and his. Those memories are his inlaws. With a body swap he gets to make memories with his family, and still keep the bones that helped make his inlaws memories.

I have nothing better to do, and I am right. Lol

I thought alot because the pills, but also because sentiment is fading nowadays.
 

gotyourgoat

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2014
Posts
2,117
Reaction score
3,418
Location
NRV Virginia
First Name
gotyourgoat
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
smokin' 305
It all depends on your level of ability to do the repairs. Personally I don't like the idea of condemning things that are savable. This is my friends 75' K5 that I just started on the metal work on, it is getting new inner/outer rockers, kick panels, wheel tubs, wheel arches, lower bedsides, top of the tailgate, front fenders, hood, top rails, door bottoms. It is otherwise a really solid truck, the floor is really nice, firewall decent, a-pillars are nice too. Its worth it since its a full convertible blazer.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach

Other rocker is a lot worse than this one.
You must be registered for see images attach

Then here is my 79 Big Ten, which I have/will do the floors, toe board, kick panels, floor braces, floor side supports, nearly the whole firewall, inner/outer rockers, A-pillars, B-pillar roof seam delete, graft a back of a cab in, inner/outer cab corners, inner fenders. Thats not even including the bed (since it was too far gone even by my standards.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Not everyone was born with a welder and a cut off wheel in their hands like you though. ;)
 

Joe T

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2019
Posts
454
Reaction score
311
Location
Houston
First Name
Joe
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
I would park it somewhere as is. Build a lean 2 shed off the side of a barn.


Thats just me though. I would talk about how I am going to restore it one day. Maybe get around to spraying some phospho on the rust.
 

Joe T

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2019
Posts
454
Reaction score
311
Location
Houston
First Name
Joe
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
As far as tackling rust personally... probably cab corners only unless the truck is rare.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
42,120
Posts
909,566
Members
33,614
Latest member
BryantRiverRat
Top