Thanks! In the schematic it seems there was a fusible link connected between the wire and the junction block. Can I omit this fusible link or should I replace it with a fuse?
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It should neither be omitted or replaced with a fuse - there should be a fusible link inserted into that section of wire. Just cut the 2F lead at a point a few inches from the JB - but before the split - and splice in a new link. It's easy.
First determine the size (amp rating) of the link. If yours was still installed, you would only need to look closely at your links and note the 2 digit number on the plastic collar (e.g. 14,16,18). That is the AWG size of the copper conductors inside the insulation.
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But since yours is gone, you will pull that information from the wiring diagram. GM indicates the cross-sectional diameter of wire using the metric style (mm2 - mils). Fusible links are rated by the diameter of the conductor within them - and that diameter is represented using the AWG (American Wire Gauge) number.
So, to know which link to buy requires getting the wire size of the link (in mils) from the wiring diagram and consulting a conversion chart to get the equivalent AWG size.
Hey look, somebody already did it for us:
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The image and dwg agree that it is a 16 AWG link.
A fusible link is just an undersized length of wire with special insulation that is designed to puff up as an indication the copper conductors inside it have burned. Read on for more info on fusible links:
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. A blown link often, but not always, has "bubbly" appearing insulation making troubleshooting easier. Always inspect that there is battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes (wire gauges), each fusible link is four wire gauge sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gauge wire, use a 14 gauge link (or for metric, to protect a 5 mm wire, use a 2 mm link). Links are marked on the insulation with wire-gauge size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear to be a heavier gauge than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when replacing a blown fusible link.
Good and damaged fusible links:
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Double wire feed fusible link repair:
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Choose the shortest length that is available. A fusible link should NEVER be longer than nine inches. Fusible links longer than this will not provide sufficient overload protection.
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When connecting the repair link, strip the wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two places. To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each wire harness.
One final note: Butt splices are often hincluded with aftermarket replacement links, but they should be avoided. The preferred method of inserting a link is by soldering it inline and insulating the soldered joints with heat shrink tubing.