What have you done to your square lately??

Ontheboulder

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greg
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1987
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gmc sierra classic v2500
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350
well got the 87 Gmc in the shop, slowly trying to work out the new floor mat to fit the floor. It's still pretty stiff and stubborn! Gonna have to burn the midnight pellet stove to keep the shop warm enuf to get this done! It got cold here in a hurry this year!!
well got the floor mat in the truck,still smoothing out the humps and bumps! Nothing a heat gun and some 1 inch steel plate can't fix!
 

89Suburban

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Got the new tires mounted. Managed to also get a new front steering stabilizer, front air dam along with a pair of used tow hooks I had installed. Need to find time to install the lift kit and get the steering box brace ordered. Went to Dino's Get Down this past weekend and came up with some ideas for the interior.

It's down in the back end due to having stored a complete engine, transmission, accessory combo along with 4 springs and 3 spare tires in the back


Wicked turbines man, my favorite!
 

Snoots

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Roger
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1973
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Jimmy Sierra
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350
Windshield wipers went crazy. It was like Junior Johnson racing. Dead stop or flat out!
Checked all grounds - good.
Checked all voltages - good.
Thought I'd take the switch out, take it apart and clean the contacts.
Wipers started moving at slow speed as I was backing out the screws that hold the switch. ?
Both screws were rusty. Hmmm.
Replaced old screws with ones that weren't rusty and viola!
It works like it should. (Bad ground to the switch housing).

Chippin' away at the stone!
 

Bextreme04

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1980
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K25
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350-4bbl
Are you using the stock injectors? I've heard they're only 19 lbs/hr....according to LT Tolman on y.t.
He's the guy from the old Trucks show. Moved to Utah and doing his own thing now. I'll look for his video on it...
No, stock injectors are indeed 19lb and they are horrible and known to fail. I am using Bosch D3 30lb injectors from SouthBay Fuel Injectors. You need them to be modified for TPI like SouthBay does because the Bosch D3's are just a hair too short and they can have the possibility of not sealing properly at the stock length. I also used an LS 5.3 regulator block-off plate from ICT Billet to get rid of the stock regulator that is buried behind the intake and went to an accessible adjustable regulator mounted over the drivers side valve cover. The stock regulator and the stock injectors are the main failure points on those things, so I figured I'd fix that.
 

Big Ray

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I picked up a proflo 1 manifold for my l29. After I score fuel rails for it I can piece the rest together. It looks like the rails are unique to the p.f.
 

Bextreme04

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I picked up a proflo 1 manifold for my l29. After I score fuel rails for it I can piece the rest together. It looks like the rails are unique to the p.f.
There's a bunch of different ones with edelbrock depending on what specific system it is. Why are you changing the fuel injection type? Are you going t obe trying for big power or something? The stock manifold and injector system can be run fairly easily with an LS 0411 ECU and mildly modified factory tune files.
 

Big Ray

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I bought a motor without the stock setup
Came with 3k in New parts. Cam, lifters, roller rockers, Springs, distributor...basically everything to make it run minus an induction system.
Too good to pass up, got it all for 2500$.
 

Big Ray

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I plan on using it in my old 3/4 ton r2500 burb. It has a tired old 6.2 with 385k on the clock. Might wind up just throwing a carb on it...
 

born2Run83

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350
This is probably my favorite color combination on a square body. AWESOME truck sir!
 

bucket

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Agreed. I've used it before without issue. For all I know, I did something in the process that caused it to fail :shrug: I'm certainly not going to bash 3m as I would use the product again without hesitation. Long story short, I get to do it again :D

The key is light coats on both surfaces, let it dry for a few minutes, then stick it. You don't want heavy coats that saturate the material and you don't want to stick the fabric when the adhesive still feels wet.

Other causes can be fiberboard prep. Remnants of old foam, or too aggressive with foam removal. If the fiberboard feels fluffy in spots, removal was too aggressive or it is just plain decomposing.
 

CalSgt

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Casey
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1980
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Chevy K-10 Custom Deluxe
Engine Size
350
Added some much needed antifreeze before it was too late.

When we test fired the engine a few months ago it just got distilled water in case it had a leak or needed to be taken back apart for some reason. No leaks or issues, rolled the chassis in the trailer & started on the next phase of the project. It was 18 degrees on my drive out to our shop on Saturday when I had the panic thought that we never winterized. The drain plug in the block felt like it was going to strip so we siphoned some water & added concentrated green stuff.

A quick hotwire & warm up cycle should have mixed everything good enough.
https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/80-k-10-squircle-build.34732/

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Old77

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The key is light coats on both surfaces, let it dry for a few minutes, then stick it. You don't want heavy coats that saturate the material and you don't want to stick the fabric when the adhesive still feels wet.

Other causes can be fiberboard prep. Remnants of old foam, or too aggressive with foam removal. If the fiberboard feels fluffy in spots, removal was too aggressive or it is just plain decomposing.
I honestly think that’s most of the issue is the fiberboard is in pretty bad shape but I tried to make it work. I got a kit to replace it off stockinteriors.com so I’m going to see how that works
 

SDJunkMan

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K10
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350
Got the new fuel tank straps in and installed on the CUCV. Was going to drop the tank and clean it out, but it was too cold out and snow comin, so I just did the straps. I'll drop the tank when it warms up and clean it out and replace the hoses.
 

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