Full Access Member
- Sep 15, 2021
- Reaction score
- First Name
- Truck Year
- '85, '81
- Truck Model
- K10, K20
- Engine Size
- 305, 350
I did the exact same thing. I was being a cheap-ass and also needed it RIGHT NOW and couldn't wait for it to be shipped. No one had one local to me, so I got the bar one. I've used it on three sets of heads now and it is a total PITA. The more expensive one is MUCH easier to use and faster. Being able to lock it over center to get the valve retainers out and new ones in is a huge plus. Also the bar one tends to not press the valve down evenly and makes it hard to remove and install the retainers. You have to physically hold the bar down the whole time you are finangling the retainers, so it basically requires three hands to do easily. The over center tool fixes all of those problems. Like I said, it is totally doable with the bar one and that's what I have and use... but I regret not getting the more expensive one every time I do.@75gmck25 I read reviews on the cheaper tool last night and did see that they are not really all that great. I might see if any of the parts stores can loan me a better tool. Look I'm a tight *** and I don't wanna spend $60 on a tool to do two valves, but also since I'm a first timer I don't wanna waste a bunch of time mucking around with a tool that's being difficult, so we'll see what happens.
@Grit dog IDK in which thread I posted this but I have done a full comp test since this all started happening. Without checking my notes I don't recall the specific readings but they were all just fine. Of course a good compression test is a good sign, but it is possible to have a damaged oil control ring, but still have good compression ring, it's not normal but can happen. My bigger concern isn't the plug fouling and misfiring that occurs after it fouls, but the misfire that occurs after a hard pull up hill. What is that from, oil past the guide temporarily causing a mis? could be... A weak spring? maybe.... Seat? possible. IDK I've got to start somewhere, cause it doesn't show on a comp test, and it's not a tune up issue, so maybe it is all just oil control. We shall see.
I'm honestly betting with that much fouling in this short time, you probably have broken rings in #7. Mine had the miss and detonation issues and also fouled plugs like that. After the motor blew completely(unrelated), I found the problem cylinder had all the rings broken into many small pieces.Good news bad news morning. I got the starter banged out in the Jeep so that is done. I decided I would gather everything I need to do the valve seal work, and it'll be tomorrow mornings project. I'm doing this on the farm and there is no where under cover for me to work right now so the weather might throw me, but tomorrow morning is the plan. Well I decided to pull #7 plug just to see what it's done in since I changed it last weekend, it's been about 120 miles.
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That's pretty bad for not much mileage, so because of that I think I'll likely be going back to the original plan #7, just do seals on #7 and see if that stops the fouling. if it does, and I still have issues with the mis after a hard run, I can always go back in and do springs later to try to fix that. If not I can send the springs back, put the $40 in my motor fund, and go from there.
Of course I wanted this to be the fix, but knew that at the very least I came away knowing for sure where the issue lies. And that's good at least when I do replace the engine I will not be wondering if it's unnecessary time and money.On the plus side, though,for the least amount of time and money spent, you know what you have.
And, so long as you don't mind adding oil and changing a plug or two quite frequently you could run it fir a while more.
Which is what I have been doing, without the internal experimentation.
Yes, I don't have that going on and as much as it irritates me to have problems at least I can still drive it. And I have to admit that I've worked the little 305 pretty hard. I've never abused it, and always taken care of it but I have worked it hard too. It's just wearing out out and on the back side of time....That's a bummer... Start planning for that 350, either saving money or collecting parts, and just keep running the 305. They are tough little buggers. Be glad you're only replacing fouled plugs and not ones that look like this:
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Funny you should mention that. Today I was doing some fence work on the farm and thinking about intake. A number of people have mentioned the intake thing and I have said it seems unlikely because with the pcv plugeed off and the engine running there is not even the smallest bit of vacuum at the breather. IDK if you know about this but the magnum Chrysler engines had, for lack of a better term a belly pan on the bottom of the intake manifold in the valley, and the test we used for those was to fire them up and run them for a few minutes with the PCV plugged off and see if even the smallest bit of suction / vacuum developed.I started wondering about the intake manifold. #7 is a great leaker of many various fluids...after sustained high rpm operation..when was the last time you had the intake manifold at a close look?
For the record I have no evidence that the misfire after sustained high RPM operation is the same cylinder as #7, which is the one fouling. Of course it very well could be. The misfire after high RPM, clears after a few minutes of idling or lower RPM operation. When #7 fouls out it's a steady mis at all RPM, now of course it could be that if #7 is seeing enough oil during or right after high RPM it might clear it a few times without fouling.The egr passages need cleaning he says.
After "sustained high rpm operation" - you let off the throttle and the plug fouls when the egr should be flowing. I dont believe in coincidence but only because there is no such thing.
One time, in a good shop I worked at, I ended up fixing the lead tech's infamous "comeback queen" he couldnt figure out.
A six cylinder Ford van.
Long story short he'd "fix" it again and it always came back misfiring...
I insisted he let me have a go at it one time it came in and I messed around and fixed it after owner agreed to order the updated part.
See Ford recalled the intake manifold and issued a TSB , turns out reading was for the win. It had moving flaps inside of it...egr flaps?
Eww. I know, gross!
I understand the differences of a 300 ford v6 and your sbc but I think the baseline principals set forth in that story may hold water here as well.
I hereby forward the notion that perhaps resealing the intake manifold would yield better results than changing even one valve guide seal...Irrespective if its' assigned cylinder.
That guy's name was Mickey