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Tubular LCA worth it or not?

Discussion in 'Lowered & Street Systems' started by Dr Evil, Dec 22, 2020.

  1. Dr Evil

    Dr Evil Junior Member

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    So I'm in the middle of replacing my spindles. 2.5" drop spindles and 2" drop springs. Flip kit in rear.
    Passenger side went on relatively easy.
    Drivers side looks like the lower ball joint is bad. I went ahead and removed the entire LCA with spindle attached since it won't release. I've tried everything to get the castle nut off without success. You can feel some play in the ball joint itself too.
    Bushings are marginal on both sides.
    My choices at this point are:
    1- replace ball joint, send it.
    2- replace ball joint and bushings, send it
    3- replace bj and both lca bushings
    4- replace with tubular lca and update sway bar. The is honestly where I'm leaning. I hate the cost but, seems like there is a lot of benefit with additional castor built in and updated parts.

    Thoughts?
     
  2. Bennyt

    Bennyt Full Access Member

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    I think the tubular arms are worth it, especially if you are looking at the total price of repairing your existing to rebuilding the stock stuff.

    I paid roughly $800 for CPP upper and lowers, springs, and shocks.
     
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  3. Dr Evil

    Dr Evil Junior Member

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    I Already have spindles and springs. I was hoping to do this reasonably cheap. I know the new lca have to use the updated sway bar so that's an additional cost. Any other additional costs I'm not seeing?
     
  4. eskimomann209

    eskimomann209 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    I dunno. Bushings were 4.99 each and the lower mooch ball was 34 or something. I rebuilt my uppers and lowers including balls and tie rods. Also did the sway bar bushings. I think I was in for it around 150. Id choose to build them.
    To get the nut off (if spinning)I usually wedge something between the ball joint and the knuckle to bind it up. Then hit the castle nut with the impact.
    Pb blaster n some heat can help. Or cut the castle nut in two places and split it off.

    Only way I’d go tubular was if it was a kit for coilovers. Like IHCs kit or QA1. Then the cost of tubular is going toward a total upgrade.
     
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  5. Dr Evil

    Dr Evil Junior Member

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    So, I hit the easy button. I'm going to order one from LMC and take one for the team here. They show LCA assembled for $149 each.
    I'll post results and thoughts on it once it arrives. The biggest thing is the ball joint. At that pricepoint I'm betting its a cheap one. I may still replace with a moog ball joint but if the bushings and bump stops are already there it still won't be bad. We shall see.
     
  6. TPISly-C10

    TPISly-C10 Full Access Member

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    agree! since my front suspension is good but 34 years old..it worth paying few hundred more to have what i really want! :)

    Capture d’écran 2020-12-17 à 08.01.20.png

    QA1 SB.jpg
     
  7. Dr Evil

    Dr Evil Junior Member

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    Ok folks. I received a new lower control arm from LMC and installed it tonight. Seems like a decent piece. Came with bump stop, bushings and ball joint. I compared it side by side with the older one and the only difference I can tell is the shape of the stamping the bump stop rides on.
    The sway bar bolt holes and shock mounts were exact.
    It also has the same index for the bottom of the spring to set in, in the same location.
    So far, so good. It'll be a bit before I drive but I'll post that too.
    Initial impression is positive.
     
  8. Raider L

    Raider L Full Access Member

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    Dr Evil

    Before you put you knew lca's in take them to a machine shop and have them put in a threaded bung for a srew in lower ball joint. You'll be glad you did. You can find the procedure on QA1's site. They have the bung's as well, and the screw in lower ball joints. They even have "replaceable" balls for the joint itself. You take the ball out and put in a new one when the old one wears out, if that ever happens.
     
  9. Raider L

    Raider L Full Access Member

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    Dr Evil,

    Sorry, I rushed ahead and posted my suggestion before I read your last post. I guess it's to late unless you would want to look into it. I was thinking since you have it up you might as well do whatever you need to do now. Once you have it on the road you'll be enjoying it to much to down it again to do more work on the suspension.
     
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  10. Dr Evil

    Dr Evil Junior Member

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    No worries. I still have it on the rack, waiting to do the rear flip kit. I may take it out and look into this. It's not going to get a ton of miles when done though.
     

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