Truck just quit on me

Discussion in 'Tech Discussion' started by Jppr26, Aug 7, 2018.

  1. Jppr26

    Jppr26 Full Access Member

    Posts:
    66
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2017
    Location:
    Deer island
    First Name:
    John
    Truck Year:
    1987
    Truck Model:
    V20 custom deluxe
    Engine Size:
    350/5.7
    so I was roling up to a red light and my truck died on me cranked it over for a while and it fired up for a breed moment then died again, I got it pushed off to a side road, and went to try cranking it over again and nothing happened, the key don’t even spring back, or will go into the steering wheel lock position.

    I did pull the steering column apart about two months ago to replace the turn signal switch, so something may have came loose from there, I’m also wondering if my oil sensor is a issue as the fuel pump relay is ran from that.

    Any other ideas for what to check
     
  2. 1987 GMC Jimmy

    1987 GMC Jimmy Full Access Member

    Age:
    21
    Posts:
    4,225
    Likes Received:
    968
    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2016
    Location:
    New Orleans, LA
    First Name:
    Jesse
    Truck Year:
    1987
    Truck Model:
    V1500 Jimmy
    Engine Size:
    350
    Sounds like every ignition module experience I’ve had. Random spark loss, cranks and cranks, might give a brief startup of a few seconds, and when the module gets a little heat, it’s gone again. Don’t want to guarantee that as a fix since it sounds like there’s something fishy in your steering column. Hopefully it’s just related to the ignition cylinder.
     
  3. Jppr26

    Jppr26 Full Access Member

    Posts:
    66
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2017
    Location:
    Deer island
    First Name:
    John
    Truck Year:
    1987
    Truck Model:
    V20 custom deluxe
    Engine Size:
    350/5.7
    This is a new issue to me, I am going to pull the steering column apart when I get the truck home, I’m currently waiting for a tow.
     
  4. 1987 GMC Jimmy

    1987 GMC Jimmy Full Access Member

    Age:
    21
    Posts:
    4,225
    Likes Received:
    968
    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2016
    Location:
    New Orleans, LA
    First Name:
    Jesse
    Truck Year:
    1987
    Truck Model:
    V1500 Jimmy
    Engine Size:
    350
    Duplicate post.
     
  5. 77 K20

    77 K20 Full Access Member

    Posts:
    1,504
    Likes Received:
    202
    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2012
    Location:
    Montana
    First Name:
    Mike
    Truck Year:
    1977
    Truck Model:
    K20 4" lift
    Engine Size:
    HT383 fuel injected
    I agree with 87 Jimmy above. I've had a few ignition modules die and it is the same as what you said.

    It would take less time to pull a spark plug or if you have an extra in the garage to put it against the frame and have someone crank it. Look for spark. (just rest the plug, don't hold it!)
     
  6. 77 K20

    77 K20 Full Access Member

    Posts:
    1,504
    Likes Received:
    202
    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2012
    Location:
    Montana
    First Name:
    Mike
    Truck Year:
    1977
    Truck Model:
    K20 4" lift
    Engine Size:
    HT383 fuel injected
    Although I'm not too familiar with the '87. (my dad had one years ago...)

    Could be steering column related. Think I read something about when you turn the key (but not start it) you should see some lights on in the dash. Thought that meant that the ECU had power or something. Also should hear the electric fuel pump prime.
     
  7. smoothandlow84

    smoothandlow84 I'd rather be draggin' frame

    Posts:
    2,016
    Likes Received:
    644
    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2015
    Location:
    Arizona
    First Name:
    Steve
    Truck Year:
    1984 Frame...87 motor and 700r trans
    Truck Model:
    1500 r10 pavement scraper
    Engine Size:
    350 TBI
    X2....


    Thats what my 87 does. If you dont have lights when the key is turned to the acc position, then something electrical isnt connecting in your column. It may also,be your ignition switch is arcing. With years of use, the copper contacts become worn and will arc from time to time. I had issues with it starting up fine one day, then turn the key and nothing....not even a crank and the key wouldnt spring return back. The fuel pump fuse ...check that as well. If you can at least crank it over, but it wont fire up, the fuse may be blown. This is also caused by a worn and arcing ignition switch. The ignition switch is mounted on to of the column, behind the dash cluster. Replacing the switch involves looseing the two bolts under the dash that support the main column. The ignition switch carries a lot of amperage and over time just wears out causing all sorts of electrical issues that most people tend to blame on poor battery terminal connections, weak batteries or worn starter. Before replacing the $18 ignition switch, I replaced the battery, cables, verified a good ground, and replaced the starter as well.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2018
  8. Jppr26

    Jppr26 Full Access Member

    Posts:
    66
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2017
    Location:
    Deer island
    First Name:
    John
    Truck Year:
    1987
    Truck Model:
    V20 custom deluxe
    Engine Size:
    350/5.7
    My ignition switch will turn to crank position, and dose not crank. As well it won’t spring back and won’t return all the way back to pull the key. I’m going to buy a new ignition switch tomorrow, and see if that fixes it.
     
  9. smoothandlow84

    smoothandlow84 I'd rather be draggin' frame

    Posts:
    2,016
    Likes Received:
    644
    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2015
    Location:
    Arizona
    First Name:
    Steve
    Truck Year:
    1984 Frame...87 motor and 700r trans
    Truck Model:
    1500 r10 pavement scraper
    Engine Size:
    350 TBI
    Thats what mine was doing. Its a pita to get to the switch, but its one of the many "weat items" that few people even think to replace after years of service. Its a plastic housing with copper contacts. It a rudimentary design, but probably high tech in the 80's lol.


    I hope this solves your issue.
     
  10. Crispy

    Crispy Full Access Member

    Age:
    34
    Posts:
    688
    Likes Received:
    374
    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2017
    Location:
    The Slate Belt, PA
    First Name:
    Chris
    Truck Year:
    1989
    Truck Model:
    Suburban V1500
    Engine Size:
    5.7
    If you have a tilt column it would be a good time to tighten the bolts at the swivel even if they arent loose. Hopefully the ignition switch fixes the issue, if nothing else you'll have proper operation.

    Lotta pics in this thread, its not as bad of a job as one would think.
    http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=12525.0
     
    78c10bigten likes this.
  11. 1987 GMC Jimmy

    1987 GMC Jimmy Full Access Member

    Age:
    21
    Posts:
    4,225
    Likes Received:
    968
    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2016
    Location:
    New Orleans, LA
    First Name:
    Jesse
    Truck Year:
    1987
    Truck Model:
    V1500 Jimmy
    Engine Size:
    350
    Loctite them and tighten if you do.
     
    Snoots likes this.
  12. Jppr26

    Jppr26 Full Access Member

    Posts:
    66
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2017
    Location:
    Deer island
    First Name:
    John
    Truck Year:
    1987
    Truck Model:
    V20 custom deluxe
    Engine Size:
    350/5.7
    So I replaced the ignition switch on the column, and the key switch.

    The truck turns over now, and the key returns to the lock position, they key returning was easy soon as I figured it out, turns out the column had been replaced for one from an automatic trans, and the dam column shift boot around the column needs to be turned as far counterclockwise as it can otherwise.....key won’t go to lock and pull out.
    Now the truck is cranking and trying to start but won’t run, I do hear the fuel pump running but it isn’t shutting off like I have heard befor, fuel gage reads 1/2 tank and there is fuel sloshing around in there. What should I check or replace next, I’m thinking ignition control module
     
  13. 1987 GMC Jimmy

    1987 GMC Jimmy Full Access Member

    Age:
    21
    Posts:
    4,225
    Likes Received:
    968
    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2016
    Location:
    New Orleans, LA
    First Name:
    Jesse
    Truck Year:
    1987
    Truck Model:
    V1500 Jimmy
    Engine Size:
    350
    If you have injector spray while you’re cranking, spark. You can get a test light probe and hover it over the coil while cranking and then do the same over one of the terminals on the cap. I’m willing to bet you’ll get spark on the coil but none leaving the distributor. You can also ground a spare spark plug by touching it to metal or getting a jumper wire with gator clips and doing the same, disconnect the injectors, and crank to see if you’re getting spark. You can take one of them out of the motor and ground it, but I can’t stand that psh psh sound that it makes when you do that.
     
  14. Jppr26

    Jppr26 Full Access Member

    Posts:
    66
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2017
    Location:
    Deer island
    First Name:
    John
    Truck Year:
    1987
    Truck Model:
    V20 custom deluxe
    Engine Size:
    350/5.7
    So I’m getting fuel and spark, I checked with an old plug that I had, I’m gong to pull the plugs tonight and check them
     
  15. Jppr26

    Jppr26 Full Access Member

    Posts:
    66
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2017
    Location:
    Deer island
    First Name:
    John
    Truck Year:
    1987
    Truck Model:
    V20 custom deluxe
    Engine Size:
    350/5.7
    Pulled two of the plugs and they look fine, grey/white. Pulled my distributor cap, there is a little bit of deposits but nothing horrible, I pulled the ignition module and I’m going to replace that tomorrow. I’ll see if that works
     

Share This Page