Tie Rod Ends Interfere with Wheel Weights

[JT58]

I have an 87 4 X 4 where I had a shop replace the tie rod ends both sides. The original ones- I assume they were original were much smaller. The new ones are larger and come very close to the inside of the wheel. I have stock 15" Rally wheels. The standard wheel weights on the inside lip interfered with the tie rod ends and I had to remove them. The slight tick tick noise was driving me nuts. When I asked the shop about it, they said they would order a different brand tie rod end. It was just as large. I tried having the wheels balanced with stick on weights on the inside of the wheel, not the lip but they interfered with the steering knuckle. So is the solution to only put weights on the outside of the wheel? Can the tires be balanced this way? Are there any other solutions? It seems the real problem is the 15" wheels are too small and 16" would be better. I was not able to find any 16" Rally wheels either, I am not sure any exist? I could easily go aftermarket with 16" wheels and new tires but I much prefer to keep the it stock.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Can clearance grind on the tie rod ends lightly. There's a big tie rod setup and a slightly smaller setup.

I have an 84 k10 with rallies and the upgraded bigger tie rod ends with no problems.

Smaller is 7/8 thread and bigger is 1 inch thread. Adjusting sleeves need to match either or.

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[Sad Sack]

You can always clean your wheel barrel really well and take to tire joint and do a static balance where they can put tape weights on inside only and none on the outside.

 

[fast 99]

Shouldn't modify the tie rod. Take wheels to a tire shop. Newer balance machines can be programmed to attach weights outside, inside or tape weights in center.

 

[WFO]

I had a slight click coming from the right rear on my 79 Vette.
It was interference with the inside lead wheel weight.
A couple of taps on the lead with a hammer did the trick.

 

[JT58]

I tried tape weights on the inside and they interfered with the ball joints- can't remember if it was the top ball joint or bottom or both. So I can only have weights on the outside of the wheel. 16" rims would for sure solve the problem, although it means new wheels and tires.

 

[warrpath4x4]

Find a different tire shop, ive never ran into an issue with stick on weights hitting the ball joints. They just need to look at where they are installing them. Another option is dynamic balancing beads inside your tires.

secondary question, are they stacking the tape weights? please supply pictures

 

[JT58]

Ok, I still have this problem. The replacement tie rod ends are huge and are 1/16" away from the wheel. So I cannot use the typical hammer on weights on the inside of the wheel. I had the tire balanced with tape stick-on weights on the inside and they interfered with the caliper. There is not much clearance between the caliper and the wheel. They were not stacked either. Are their super slim stick- on weights available?

I asked a tire shop if they could balance with hammer on weights on the outside of the wheel and tape weights on the extreme inside of the wheel- away from the caliper. They said they can't- the computer tells where to put the weights period. The best solution is to go to 16" wheels but the expense is huge and 15" are the original wheels, would rather keep the 15".

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Nothing else can be done other than what's been mentioned.

1000's of these trucks with the same tie rods and wheels that you have.

 

[75gmck25]

Instead of a shop that only does what the machine says, look for a tire shop that caters to performance cars or off-road tires, and have them do the balancing.

Some wide/large performance tires are very hard to balance, and the owners may also want it to appear absolutely show-car quality from the outside. I have worked with shops that took time to rotate the tires on the rim and make mother tweaks that minimized the weights needed. Then they used a combination of andhesive and clip-on weights. However, it’s tedious and time consuming, so most shops will not take the time.

Most shop guys also don’t really understand the balancing concepts and how inner and outer weights interact, so they can’t do much more than what the machine tells them. Sometimes static balancing with a bubble machine may even be a better choice.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Instead of a shop that only does what the machine says, look for a tire shop that caters to performance cars or off-road tires, and have them do the balancing.

Some wide/large performance tires are very hard to balance, and the owners may also want it to appear absolutely show-car quality from the outside. I have worked with shops that took time to rotate the tires on the rim and make mother tweaks that minimized the weights needed. Then they used a combination of andhesive and clip-on weights. However, it’s tedious and time consuming, so most shops will not take the time.

Most shop guys also don’t really understand the balancing concepts and how inner and outer weights interact, so they can’t do much more than what the machine tells them. Sometimes static balancing with a bubble machine may even be a better choice.

some tire monkeys dont even know that when the balancer indicates to put weight on an area that you are also being directed to put it on the inside or outside

If you have to put more than 3oz on any given assembly, unless its some massive mudder tire, you need to go back to the tire changer and match mount the wheel

If after that (more than once) You cant, then you need to check runout on the wheel

I am finding it hard to believe the stick on weights wont clear the caliper if they are stacked only 1 high, however.
Also hard to believe the tie rods are not able to clear a pound on weight on the flange. has the steering stops been played with?

 

[TotalyHucked]

Ok, I still have this problem. The replacement tie rod ends are huge and are 1/16" away from the wheel. So I cannot use the typical hammer on weights on the inside of the wheel. I had the tire balanced with tape stick-on weights on the inside and they interfered with the caliper. There is not much clearance between the caliper and the wheel. They were not stacked either. Are their super slim stick- on weights available?

I asked a tire shop if they could balance with hammer on weights on the outside of the wheel and tape weights on the extreme inside of the wheel- away from the caliper. They said they can't- the computer tells where to put the weights period. The best solution is to go to 16" wheels but the expense is huge and 15" are the original wheels, would rather keep the 15".

Just grind the tie rod a bit for clearance, it won't hurt anything as long as you don't go overboard. I had to do that on both sides of my C10 with both the tie rods and the steering arms. That was 75k miles ago of hard driving, no issues.

 

[Sad Sack]

Wheel spacers or grind. Heck even try washers behind the wheel, just make sure all are same thickness. Start with one washer and if interference goes away, you'll know how much to grind off if you go down that path.

 

[Grit dog]

Wheel spacers or grind. Heck even try washers behind the wheel, just make sure all are same thickness. Start with one washer and if interference goes away, you'll know how much to grind off if you go down that path.

Good test method.
Or if the OP just wants a solution with no more fiddling around, use balance beads and be done with it.

 

[bucket]

That tire shop probably doesn't know how to use balance beads either.

Imho, find a different tire shop. Look for one with an older fella that's been doing it for a while. A big city shop probably won't be the place.