Switched to a bed with the gas door on the other side

jake10

Junior Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2022
Posts
3
Reaction score
1
Location
Ohio
First Name
Jake
Truck Year
1979
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
305
I got a 79 c10 long bed. The bed was absolutely rusted out beyond repair so i cut it up and am saving what's left it incase i need any sheet metal from it. I got a 87 bed that needs a bit of work but is much better than the other one was. However, the door is on the driver side while my actual gas tank is on the passenger side. My original bed had a door and not the cap only so I thought about cutting out the part on the drivers side and patching it into the passenger side and then just putting a piece of sheet metal over the hole in the drivers side. However , I also thought that it would just be a lot easier to use a hole saw and drill a hole right in the side for it and just clean up the edges a bit or put a screw on gas cap plate thing off amazon over it. I really don't care what it looks like as ling as its functional, what would be the easiest option.
 

Loren

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2021
Posts
208
Reaction score
277
Location
Walnut Creek
First Name
Loren
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
Silverado c10
Engine Size
305
First option if your good at that sort of thing, not me but I know plenty of people who are
 

CheemsK1500

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2022
Posts
553
Reaction score
853
Location
Texas
First Name
Paul
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K1500
Engine Size
305
With a mig welder, and fiberglass you can do whatever you want with fuel doors. The easiest thing you can do is just move your fuel tank to the driver side. The frame is likely already drilled for a driver side fuel tank and even if it wasn't it wouldn't be too difficult to do.
 

AuroraGirl

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2019
Posts
8,522
Reaction score
4,889
Location
Northern Wisconsin
First Name
Taylor
Truck Year
1978, 1980
Truck Model
K10, K25
Engine Size
400(?), 350
dont do what my gpa did (stop using the tank on the passenger side and then cut open the wheel tub and zip tied the neck so it was (under)) that opening.
 

jake10

Junior Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2022
Posts
3
Reaction score
1
Location
Ohio
First Name
Jake
Truck Year
1979
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
305
With a mig welder, and fiberglass you can do whatever you want with fuel doors. The easiest thing you can do is just move your fuel tank to the driver side. The frame is likely already drilled for a driver side fuel tank and even if it wasn't it wouldn't be too difficult to do.
So I could use the same tank I already got just move it over to the other side? What all would I have to change out though that is side specific?
 

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
26,666
Reaction score
16,133
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
So I could use the same tank I already got just move it over to the other side? What all would I have to change out though that is side specific?

You can use your current tank, sending unit and mounting brackets. Depending on the brackets you have, they may or may not need two nuts welded to existing holes. Or just hold the nuts in place when tightening the bolts, it can be tricky, but it's possible.

You will simply reroute your fuel hoses. I don't remember the length differences between left and right filler hoses, but those may work as well, maybe with some trimming. But you should be able to use your current '79 steel filler neck on the '87 bed, if you don't want to use the later style plastic filler shroud.
 

CheemsK1500

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2022
Posts
553
Reaction score
853
Location
Texas
First Name
Paul
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K1500
Engine Size
305
So I could use the same tank I already got just move it over to the other side? What all would I have to change out though that is side specific?
It's pretty straightforward, almost everything is essentially the same in terms of parts, aside from the rubber filler neck. Just move everything to the opposite side of the frame, flip the fuel delivery lines over, and turn the sending unit 180 degrees. There are some minor differences between driver and passenger side sending units, but not enough to make them totally non-interchangable. If you do decide to swap your sending unit, go ahead and get a driver side sending unit for the sake of "correctness."
 

Grit dog

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
4,378
Reaction score
6,108
Location
Washington
First Name
Todd
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
454
Depends what your budget is and knowing you don’t care what it looks like, what your abilities are.
Swapping tank side to side, or more accurately even touching a working, not leaking tank on a rusted out truck is a definite recipe for replacing more parts and stuff breaking. Plus you’d have to source the proper filler hose and some are hard to find. So make sure you can get a new filler hose or a radiator hose that works, first.
All depends what your use and plans are for the truck, imo.
If you’re handy at all with bodywork you could just cut out and weld in the old gas door assembly into the new bed. For that matter since you’re not concerned about aesthetics, cut out the old gas door off the 79 bed a couple inches bigger than needed (surely it’s not rusted too, or find one that isn’t) and cut out and pop rivet it to the passenger side bedside. Fully functional and doesn’t require welding.
For that matter just to get functional, cut out the bed and wire or zip tie the filler neck in place.
 

AuroraGirl

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2019
Posts
8,522
Reaction score
4,889
Location
Northern Wisconsin
First Name
Taylor
Truck Year
1978, 1980
Truck Model
K10, K25
Engine Size
400(?), 350
It's pretty straightforward, almost everything is essentially the same in terms of parts, aside from the rubber filler neck. Just move everything to the opposite side of the frame, flip the fuel delivery lines over, and turn the sending unit 180 degrees. There are some minor differences between driver and passenger side sending units, but not enough to make them totally non-interchangable. If you do decide to swap your sending unit, go ahead and get a driver side sending unit for the sake of "correctness."
might be worth a new sending unit even if the tank itself is ok. Depending on his desires of course, but that isnt too expensive, gives the ability to step up to a 3 port if not already, then also puts a new sock and level sender and hose in the upper part.
Then the straps may need new hardware if they are reusable, but of course we dont know how rusty things are
 

CheemsK1500

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2022
Posts
553
Reaction score
853
Location
Texas
First Name
Paul
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K1500
Engine Size
305
might be worth a new sending unit even if the tank itself is ok. Depending on his desires of course, but that isnt too expensive, gives the ability to step up to a 3 port if not already, then also puts a new sock and level sender and hose in the upper part.
Then the straps may need new hardware if they are reusable, but of course we dont know how rusty things are
I can agree with this, since my last sending unit came out in pieces. My straps broke upon removal, but they were cheap to replace. Some times with patience and penetrating oil, you can save and reuse the old ones.
 

jake10

Junior Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2022
Posts
3
Reaction score
1
Location
Ohio
First Name
Jake
Truck Year
1979
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
305
The actual lid on my old bed is find but sadly the indented part it sits in has a couple rust holes in it that's why I was considering other options. However, I don't think ill move the tank I think ill just try and do the body work. I just got that harbor freight $99 flux core welder and have done much other than welding a motorcycle exhaust but there's a couple other spots ill have to patch up on the truck anyways. This truck is honestly really rough but its my first project car and I honestly just want it structurally solid and to use it as practice for body work and such so that hopefully ill be able to some decent work on a nicer truck one day.
 

Grit dog

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
4,378
Reaction score
6,108
Location
Washington
First Name
Todd
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
454
The actual lid on my old bed is find but sadly the indented part it sits in has a couple rust holes in it that's why I was considering other options. However, I don't think ill move the tank I think ill just try and do the body work. I just got that harbor freight $99 flux core welder and have done much other than welding a motorcycle exhaust but there's a couple other spots ill have to patch up on the truck anyways. This truck is honestly really rough but its my first project car and I honestly just want it structurally solid and to use it as practice for body work and such so that hopefully ill be able to some decent work on a nicer truck one day.

Heck then you got your solution. Just need to find some not rusted sheetmetal with the gas filler cutout.
I feel like you could find that at a junker or someone parting out a bed.
And in the meantime cut your bed out so you can get to the gas filler. Pretty sure you could tack in the whole thing from the old truck bed. And replace it when you find a solid piece.
Start your bodywork practice now.
Or you could easily put a universal bolt on fuel filler on it.
Either is a Better proposition than disturbing an antique fuel system until you’re ready to redo it, IMO.
 

AuroraGirl

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2019
Posts
8,522
Reaction score
4,889
Location
Northern Wisconsin
First Name
Taylor
Truck Year
1978, 1980
Truck Model
K10, K25
Engine Size
400(?), 350
The actual lid on my old bed is find but sadly the indented part it sits in has a couple rust holes in it that's why I was considering other options. However, I don't think ill move the tank I think ill just try and do the body work. I just got that harbor freight $99 flux core welder and have done much other than welding a motorcycle exhaust but there's a couple other spots ill have to patch up on the truck anyways. This truck is honestly really rough but its my first project car and I honestly just want it structurally solid and to use it as practice for body work and such so that hopefully ill be able to some decent work on a nicer truck one day.
I mean at that point, you may consider getting a new bedside. You could also go to a flush fit 78 and older bedside if you didnt mind slightly lower level for filling and the look (and the different gas cap)
also the 1979 filler neck wont like the 1987 bed opening, but its easy to fab the solution

You must be registered for see images attach


this is the way your neck bolts to the bed, I believe, simple 2 bolts on each side of it
|
I believe there are patch panels sold with the door and the surrounding parts
 

Forum statistics

Threads
37,489
Posts
802,659
Members
27,490
Latest member
gase96
Top