Swapping one 14FF for another and discs, what parts do I need?

[Junkie]

I have a '73 C20 Camper Special. 14FF 4.10 rear end.

I want to swap for a '74 3.73 G80 14FF rear end that I picked up, and some other things while I'm in there. I know the G80s aren't great, but the 14FF ones are supposed to be decent and I want street manners while not getting stuck on wet grass.

Plans:
Lugnut4x4 disc kit
different spring pack (from the 74 the axle is from, same length but a couple leafs pulled, I'd like a little better ride quality and don't need 8200GVWR)

Parts list:
Complete rear end
Lugnut4x4 kit, including axle seals
brake fluid
cover gasket, fluid
spring pack with new bushings
U bolts
spring end bolts (9/16 Grade 8, need to measure length)
swaybar (stock from the '74 the axle was under), with mounts and new bushings
shocks

anything else I should plan on doing while I'm in there?

I'll first be installing the disc kit and replacing the cover seal, and then later installing it under the truck. I'd like to get the second part done in a weekend and won't have a great parts store runner while it's apart, so I'm trying to gather all of the parts first. While I've helped swap axles before I haven't done it myself, or been responsible for the parts list.

This is a California truck so while I'm sure some of the bolts will be fun to remove, there's nothing that needs to be replaced due to rust.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[Charlie]

 

[Frankenchevy]

make sure the disc kit you're getting comes with the correct wheel studs. check the plastic "shims" that go on the leaf that snap into the oval hole at the end of the longer leafs. they are cheap and might as well be replaced. I'd recommend disassembling the leaf pack you are putting in ahead of time to make sure no leaves are broken and the shims are intact there as well.

make sure you have a means to bench bleed the master cylinder in the truck. the bench bleed kits are around $10 at Napa. also, if the kit you are buying uses Cadillac Eldorado calipers or a similar caliper without the bleeder at the top of the caliper when installed, you'll want a vacuum bleeder because you'll never the bubble that gets trapped in the top of the caliper out otherwise.

good luck.

 

[Junkie]

It claims it has everything needed, but makes no mention of studs. The guy I bought the axle from gave me a box with a bunch of new studs in it, I guess I need to verify length.

I wasn't planning on using the ebrake calipers, JB6 calipers were the plan.

 

[Frankenchevy]

It claims it has everything needed, but makes no mention of studs. The guy I bought the axle from gave me a box with a bunch of new studs in it, I guess I need to verify length.

I wasn't planning on using the ebrake calipers, JB6 calipers were the plan.

some kits expect you to hammer your old studs out of the drums to install into your new calipers. to me that is a waste of time to save $20. check the diameter of the studs as well. what did you plan on using in place of the e-brake?

 

[Junkie]

Park. If I'm anywhere steep I'll chock the tires whether or not I have a parking brake.

 

[rpcraft]

You might want to check your local state inspection in regards to your e-brake plans. I can't imagine in Cali they won't stop and check for an ebrake. In fact I am pretty sure it'll be a requirement. That being said there are kits that have provisions for using an early 70 or late 60's something caddi catalina rear brake calipers because they have a wire operated ebrake setup that is compatible with your ebrake cable but it may entail using a specific bracket setup, and the catalina calipers were still really affordable and available on rockauto (and other sources).

 

[Junkie]

The only inspections of any sort done in CA are smog (which my truck is old enough to be exempt from) and when a vehicle is salvaged or brought into the state (and I think then only VIN etc).

Everything I've read is that the ebrake calipers don't work very well at normal braking.

 

[rpcraft]

I think the reason for that is because people fail to realize they need to the proportioning valve with a setup made for four wheel discs, but that isn't due to the calipers from what I have gathered.

 

[bucket]

It's because the Eldorado calipers were crappy when they were new and they haven't got any better. Even when perfectly adjusted, the e-brake doesnt hold very strong. They also tend to seize up rather quickly. They were only used a few years.

 

[rpcraft]

Ah there you go.... Seee did a little investigating and then stumbled across a deal for 200 bucks on a 2006 2500 HD 14b FF so I just tuned out on all the pro's and con's of trying to adapt the older stuff to disc brakes. It already has the disc brakes and ebrakes on it, and I'm just going to have to move the spring pads and shock mounts. It has 4.10's and a G80 in it and all I need to do is pick up one of the caliper and caliper brackets, brake lines, and a set of pads. I had kind of been looking casually for a bit and stumbled across this one. I'll set it up and see if I like the 4.10's. It's going in my LS swapped Jimmy with a 4l60E and 33's so I am unsure if I am going to like the 4.10's or need to drop to 3.73's. At some point I want it to be equipped more for daily driver duty and a drive a ton between DFW, Houston, Austin, and Waco, so I just want to make sure if I am doing 70 or 75 down the freeway the motor isn't going bonkers, lol.

 

[Junkie]

If I could find one of those for a reasonable price I'd buy one but they're impossible to find for non outrageous sums around here.

 

[Frankenchevy]

fwiw, my caddy disc brakes brake well as far as I know, they're certainly better with a load in the bed then the drums were. the drums were fresh and well adjusted. they can be difficult to bleed if they are mounted where the bleeder isn't near the top. they bleed easily with a vac. that's all I use for bleeding any hydraulic system.

as for the e-brake, it does take some time to get them perfectly adjusted, but mine will hold the car on one of my 30ish degree access roads on my property in neutral. thats where i tested it out. maybe it gets worse as the pads wear, but I haven't noticed with the auto tranny.

...but man I hope they don't seize up on me.

edit: as for the proportioning valve part, that is correct. drums and discs have different hydraulic requirements. I'm working on that part now. it's worked fine with the factory proportioning valve, but in theory it's not optimal. may have something to do with the secondary load sensing valve over the rear axle on my truck...I don't know.

 

[Junkie]

If anyone has suggestions for a proportioning valve I'm open to ideas.

 

[rpcraft]

If I could find one of those for a reasonable price I'd buy one but they're impossible to find for non outrageous sums around here.

The best place for cheap is to go to a wrecking yard. I usually use row 52 to check inventory where possible. It works.