Steering wheel not returning to center

[damncajun]

So I've been doing all kinds of steering mods and upgrades. Basically everything hes been replaced. The issue I have now is the steering does not return to center when a turn is made. No matter the degree made. I can turn 10, 20, 45 degrees and if I let go of the wheel it will stay in that position. Whatcha think?

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[Vbb199]

What kinda steering mods and upgrades did you do?

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[Goldie Driver]

Wild guess - steering gear is too tightly adjusted and cannot return to center ?

We will see what more knowledgeable folks come back with.

Best of luck!

Britt

 

[Frankenchevy]

Nice Blazer!!!

The first vw bug I built when I was in high school was close to that color combo. “Porsche mint green”

 

[damncajun]

What kinda steering mods and upgrades did you do?

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ORD crossover steering kit for 10 Bolt with new Reid Racing knuckle and upper/ lower Moog ball joints, Red Head 2x4 steering box, tie rod and ball joints, sway bar bushings, Rough Country shocks all the way around, dual steering stabilizers, rag joint delete with Borgeson u-joint steering shaft. 2 toe alignments.

Itll drive pretty straight. And steering is much improved from the wandering issue I had before the steering box and crossover. I went through 2 LMC reman boxes trying to fix this issue, then ponied up for the crossover. Yes it does seem the box might be a little tight but I'm always timid of adjusting the steering box screw as I know this is a bandaid for bigger issues.

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[damncajun]

Nice Blazer!!!

The first vw bug I built when I was in high school was close to that color combo. “Porsche mint green”

I always thought of it as John Deere green

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[Vbb199]

ORD crossover steering kit for 10 Bolt with new Reid Racing knuckle and upper/ lower Moog ball joints, Red Head 2x4 steering box, tie rod and ball joints, sway bar bushings, Rough Country shocks all the way around, dual steering stabilizers, rag joint delete with Borgeson u-joint steering shaft. 2 toe alignments.

Itll drive pretty straight. And steering is much improved from the wandering issue I had before the steering box and crossover. I went through 2 LMC reman boxes trying to fix this issue, then ponied up for the crossover. Yes it does seem the box might be a little tight but I'm always timid of adjusting the steering box screw as I know this is a bandaid for bigger issues.

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That's what I'm kinda thinking. Steering box adjustment. Wasn't sure if you were getting into hydraulic assist or something

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[Vbb199]

What about the power steering pump? Could additionally be an issue of fluid flow.

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[damncajun]

What about the power steering pump? Could additionally be an issue of fluid flow.

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I deffinitly have pump issues. I replaced it with a reman from O'Reilly but when the truck is stopped and turning the wheel is difficult. Very very jerky. But when moving at 5 mph + it seems to be fine. Just dont turn the wheel too fast or it jerks.

My belt seems to be loose. There's a lot of slack. I could pull the belt off the pump. But its turning the pump.

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[Rusty Nail]

I think you're barking up the right tree. I'm not convinced your issue is with the box at all.

One of my first thoughts (after disregarding box adjustment) led me to question the power steering pulley ratio.

Perhaps all that is required now - is a smaller diameter steering pulley. You've surely heard of "underdrive pulleys" ? Used to slow accessories down...
I forward the motion that an overdrive pulley may be in order.

That could cost NOTHING but time.

 

[Dougnsalem]

Ok, I don't normally reply to newbs, because they typically disappear, before you even get a chance to post a reply. You've been here for awhile, and that's cool. This is just IMHO. Here you go....

1. You have a loose power steering belt??? Tighten it up!!!

2. Who put the bahl(sp) joints in, and were they put in properly? There is a specific installation procedure, and it involves having the correct tool, to properly torque down the upper bahl(sp) joint camber/caster sleeve. Each side should be checked to make sure it doesn't bind, with the tie rods disconnected. This HAS TO be done.

Bahl(sp) joint sleeve.....

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3. You've had 2 toe set alignments. That tells you absolutely nothing. Go find a better alignment shop. One that can change the sleeve (if needed), to bump your caster up. Caster has the most effect on getting your steering wheel to return to center. (Other than flat tires, or a box screw that is cranked down too tight.). Ok guys, and the other **** too- JB weld in the stearing(sp) column....

Start looking there, and let us know how it goes. BTW- how about an alignment printout, that includes everything. Thrust angle, Camber, Caster. Your front spindle setbacks would be good to see too. Again, go find a GOOD alignment shop, with some 50+ year old dude, that understands this ****. Stay away from the young "techs". Except for @1987 GMC Jimmy . I think you would be safe with him.....

EDIT: AGAIN, I had to purposely misspell things to get rid of the damn eButt links....

 

[Blue Ox]

EDIT: AGAIN, I had to purposely misspell things to get rid of the damn eButt links....

And here I thought you were from Salem Massachusetts. Pahk the cah, and check the bahl joints.

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[Dougnsalem]

And here I thought you were from Salem Massachusetts. Pahk the cah, and check the bahl joints.

Lol. That kinda reminds me of that "Odd" dude. Where did he go??? Oh, and no witches here. Just bitches. BIG ones....

 

[75gmck25]

The steering box preload is relatively easy to adjust properly, although many folks just wing-it and approximate. All you are doing is adjusting the spacing between two worm gears.

This is the basic adjustment procedure in my repair manual.
- Loosen outer lock nut and put an allen wrench on the center screw
- Disconnect the drag link from the steering arm and you will have full, free movement of the box.
- Then remove the steering wheel and put an inch-lbs torque wrench on the nut in the center.
- Ensure the wheel and box are properly centered. On my truck that meant the flat section of the steering shaft was pointing straight up. I'm not sure they are all that way.
- Tighten/loosen the adjustment screw until it requires about 8-14 inch-lbs (IIRC) of torque to turn the wheel through the full range. If you tighten it too much in the middle point it will bind at the left and right limits. You need to check it through the full range. Now tighten the lock nut and recheck.

There is one other adjustment for the steering box, but it should only be needed if the process above does not work.

Bruce

 

[damncajun]

Ok, I don't normally reply to newbs, because they typically disappear, before you even get a chance to post a reply. You've been here for awhile, and that's cool. This is just IMHO. Here you go....

1. You have a loose power steering belt??? Tighten it up!!!

2. Who put the bahl(sp) joints in, and were they put in properly? There is a specific installation procedure, and it involves having the correct tool, to properly torque down the upper bahl(sp) joint camber/caster sleeve. Each side should be checked to make sure it doesn't bind, with the tie rods disconnected. This HAS TO be done.

Bahl(sp) joint sleeve.....

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3. You've had 2 toe set alignments. That tells you absolutely nothing. Go find a better alignment shop. One that can change the sleeve (if needed), to bump your caster up. Caster has the most effect on getting your steering wheel to return to center. (Other than flat tires, or a box screw that is cranked down too tight.). Ok guys, and the other **** too- JB weld in the stearing(sp) column....

Start looking there, and let us know how it goes. BTW- how about an alignment printout, that includes everything. Thrust angle, Camber, Caster. Your front spindle setbacks would be good to see too. Again, go find a GOOD alignment shop, with some 50+ year old dude, that understands this ****. Stay away from the young "techs". Except for @1987 GMC Jimmy . I think you would be safe with him.....

EDIT: AGAIN, I had to purposely misspell things to get rid of the damn eButt links....

I have the steering pump adjusted all the way out and there's still slack. So I'm researching if the wrong belt is on there from PO.

I did all the work to steering components. Took out some, what appears to be the caster sleeve on the passenger side. The new ball joints came with different sleeves that I inserted and installed the ball joints, torqued to spec.

I can not find an alignment shop that will do anything more than a toe on my solid axle. Even the last place I made clear what I wanted, he even drives a K5, said he knew what to do, and came to pick it up with just a toe alignment. So I'm sick of gambling $$$ for alignments.

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