Steering not right after new components

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Vetteman61

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1987 K5 Blazer: 3" tuff country springs front and rear, 33x12.50 tires.

I recently had a lot of work done to the front end on my '87 K5 due to the sloopy steering. All new ball joints, u-joints, sway bar bushings. A new steering box from RedHeadSteering, and also replaced the steering shaft with a new Jeep steering shaft, and had it all aligned afterward.

A few things. The steering almost feels too easy. The truck feels a little road-wild, as we call it, where it wants to wander on the road a little bit, and if you consider the steering wheel a clock, from 12-2 seems to be easier to turn than 10-12, causing it to feel strange when driving. Also, I noticed it doesn't seem to want to return to center very well.

I'm curious of your ideas on where to begin to investigate what the problem is.
 

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My buddy's Jeep acted like that when he replaced his steering box. Isn't there an adjustment on it?
 

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First of all, the wandering and inability to self-center is not enough toe-in.
 

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First of all, the wandering and inability to self-center is not enough toe-in.
Considering you shouldn’t have a caster problem, I would bet it’s this.
Did you get an alignment print out?
It’s possible to have too much toe in as well and have a similar effect as toe out.
Personally I’d shoot for as close to 0.00 total toe you can get and then dial in just a small about of toe in, maybe up to 0.05 max if it still wanders a little.
But never any toe out.
 

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As well as the alignment maybe not being done right, you might have not had the gearbox properly centered when you installed it. If you didn't know to center it when you installed it, then that is likely your problem.

Start with your wheels centered. Disconnect the pitman arm from your steering box. Turn the wheel all the way in one direction until it stops. Then turn it all the way in the other direction until it stop again, while counting the number of turns it takes. Then turn the wheel back the other way again exactly half that many turns and reconnect your pitman arm. Your alignment shouldn't change at all from this, but you might have to adjust your draglink to make the pitman arm angle be correct at the actual gearbox center position. You might also need to adjust where you have the jeep steering shaft on it to have your steering wheel be centered as well. Adjusting the drag link length to align the steering wheel will throw off the center position.
 

Vbb199

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As well as the alignment maybe not being done right, you might have not had the gearbox properly centered when you installed it. If you didn't know to center it when you installed it, then that is likely your problem.

Start with your wheels centered. Disconnect the pitman arm from your steering box. Turn the wheel all the way in one direction until it stops. Then turn it all the way in the other direction until it stop again, while counting the number of turns it takes. Then turn the wheel back the other way again exactly half that many turns and reconnect your pitman arm. Your alignment shouldn't change at all from this, but you might have to adjust your draglink to make the pitman arm angle be correct at the actual gearbox center position. You might also need to adjust where you have the jeep steering shaft on it to have your steering wheel be centered as well. Adjusting the drag link length to align the steering wheel will throw off the center position.


Gearbox and steering shaft should be keyed, as well as the pitman, i think
 

Bextreme04

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Gearbox and steering shaft should be keyed, as well as the pitman, i think

The input shaft on the gearbox is not. The pitman might be, but I don’t think it is on the 4wd gearbox.

It’s an easy visual check usually for a 4wd. With the front wheels straight ahead, the pitman arm should be sticking straight out perpendicular to the gearbox and frame. Basically straight out towards the front left wheel. It is possible to have the drag link so far extended or tightened that you are one or more turns off center in the gearbox even with everything else installed in the right spot.
 

Vbb199

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The input shaft on the gearbox is not. The pitman might be, but I don’t think it is on the 4wd gearbox.

It’s an easy visual check usually for a 4wd. With the front wheels straight ahead, the pitman arm should be sticking straight out perpendicular to the gearbox and frame. Basically straight out towards the front left wheel. It is possible to have the drag link so far extended or tightened that you are one or more turns off center in the gearbox even with everything else installed in the right spot.


Ya know what, i got info mixed up
A 2wd is keyed on the input, and pitman arm.

Been a while since ive messed with a stock 4x4 gearbox, i usually immediatelly toss them for a 2wd box so i can setup crossover
 

Vetteman61

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I got my alignment sheet and here are some figures for the Front Wheels:

Caster: Initial - left: +7.3 right: +7.4
Final - left: +7.2 right + 7.3

Camber: Initial - left: +.8 right: +.8
Final - left: +.8 right +.7

Toe: Initial - left: 0.00 right: -.25
Final - left: 0.00 right: 0.00
 

Grit dog

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Seems like a lot of + caster but idk what old Chevy specs are. Regardless, more + caster = tracks straighter and harder to turn so don’t think it’s that.
Zero toe should be fine but you could toe it in a shade and try it. Can always put it back where it was if you mark it and remember how many turns. I haven’t done enough to know if like 1/16 or 1/8” toe is more than 1 turn.
 

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It would drive a little nicer if it had a little tow-in. But I suspect an issue with the gearbox, especially since it takes less effort to steer in one direction than the other.
 

richard A lindner

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Maybe the spool in gear box is different than what you had
 

Craig 85

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I forgot where I got this from but here are the OEM alignment specs.

Alignment specs
Chevrolet/GMC K10, K20, K30 Pickup 77-87
Left Caster / Right Caster / Camber / Total Toe
8.00° ± 1.00°/ 8.00° ± 1.00°/ 1.50° ± 0.75°/ 0.12" ± 0.05"
 

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