starter wires

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Clovis

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I am planning on ruining new wires to the starter but I'm hoping one of you guys can tell me how the wires are ran. I can't find where they go after they pass through the heat shield by the exhaust
 

Rusty Nail

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Don't ruin em!

Good thing you posted, but we're gonna need to have a look at your truck in order to help.

Got any pix of what you're talkin about?
This is the internet..? It uses photos and images.

Go down in the corner to click the red moar options and upload some files.Junior.
:mad:
You pay first then ask question!
 
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Rusty Nail

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That dont get old.. I say it with a korean accent like some cat in a convience store haha..you look what we have and buy!

You must be registered for see images attach
 
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EvilGenius

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So there are three sets of wires that go to the starter. One large black one that runs from the battery positive terminal down along the oil pan to the large post of the starter. Also connected to the large post on the starter will be two red wires that fuse together into one connector. These two red wires are fusible linked and are the main power feeds for the truck electrical. The third connection is a small wire that goes to the solenoid on the starter. It is what triggers the starter to spin.

The two red wires and the solenoid wire are loomed together and run over the back of the engine or bellhousing towards the driver side. Behind or near the distributor the loom will be T'd and the alternator wiring and choke wiring will join the loom. The loom then runs under the brake booster and into the firewall connector. At some point between the distributor and the brake booster section of the loom, one of those red wires runs to the fusable link mounted on the firewall just left of the brake booster.

Your truck may be different, but this was how mine was run. Read through the wiring diagrams (scan are posted in multiples places online) and look for those wires for your year to see where they should connect. A multimeter is helpful for continuity tests to confirm you are looking at the correct wire on both ends.

Good luck.
 

AuroraGirl

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So there are three sets of wires that go to the starter. One large black one that runs from the battery positive terminal down along the oil pan to the large post of the starter. Also connected to the large post on the starter will be two red wires that fuse together into one connector. These two red wires are fusible linked and are the main power feeds for the truck electrical. The third connection is a small wire that goes to the solenoid on the starter. It is what triggers the starter to spin.

The two red wires and the solenoid wire are loomed together and run over the back of the engine or bellhousing towards the driver side. Behind or near the distributor the loom will be T'd and the alternator wiring and choke wiring will join the loom. The loom then runs under the brake booster and into the firewall connector. At some point between the distributor and the brake booster section of the loom, one of those red wires runs to the fusable link mounted on the firewall just left of the brake booster.

Your truck may be different, but this was how mine was run. Read through the wiring diagrams (scan are posted in multiples places online) and look for those wires for your year to see where they should connect. A multimeter is helpful for continuity tests to confirm you are looking at the correct wire on both ends.

Good luck.
YOu mentioned choke wire. Is this the choke wire to provide only power the choke for startup, so the key on doesnt keep it running. If so, where does it join the loom? Of course, different harnesses for trucks that didnt have it i would presume.
 

EvilGenius

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YOu mentioned choke wire. Is this the choke wire to provide only power the choke for startup, so the key on doesnt keep it running. If so, where does it join the loom? Of course, different harnesses for trucks that didnt have it i would presume.

The single wire that runs to the choke is +12v. The choke itself grounds through the carb body. Many times on factory electric choke setups, there is a oil pressure switch that is in line with that +12v wire. The oil pressure switch doesn't pass through the +12v signal unless it detects a certain oil pressure value, I've heard ~10 psi. Where this wiring connects to the loom depends on your setup. The oil pressure switch is usually T'd off with your oil pressure sending unit at the back of the intake, or is threaded in above the oil filter on the driver's side of the block.

So the choke power wire is run either continuous from the firewall connector to the choke (most likely a modification) OR is run from the firewall connector to the oil pressure switch and then to the choke.
 

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