side trim moldings

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Dads84

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I bought LMC's , pre cut , side trim moldings. I cleaned the area where they would go with, wax and grease remover, then with brake cleaner, let it set of 10 min, and attached the trim. The trim keeps coming loose, WHY? I push it back down and a few days later it is loose again. Any advise?

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Keith Seymore

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I'm not sure brake cleaner is the right solvent. It might leave a residue of some kind. I'd recommend 90% isopropyl alcohol as a wipe.

They also make an adhesion promoter if you want to go that route.

Lastly - it takes a good amount of pressure to "wet out" the adhesive: like enough to oil can the door.

In any case you may have fouled the trim you have now and it may not stick regardless. I wouldn't be too surprised if you need new trim at this point.

I did LMC pre cut trim, alcohol wipe and then lots of pressure with my wife's rolling pin. It's been 11 years now and none of mine have come loose.

K
 

bucket

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Once a residue is on the double sided tape, it's usually never going to adhere properly. Many brake cleaners leave a residue. You can try pulling it back off and 'rejuvenating' the tape by wiping it down with a rag that's been soaked with lacquer thinner.

Edit, looks like i think and type much slower than Keith.
 

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I don't know when you put it on but I am sure there is a recommended "temp" in which to apply to assure that the adhesive properly bonds. It may have said something about that in the Kevin Tetz lmc video on youtube about how to apply the trim.
 

bucket

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As for the temperature, the warmer the better. The colder it gets, the more pressure it requires to get them stuck well. But they can be installed even if it's down in the 40's, as long as the surface is clean and without residue.
 

Vbb199

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Once a residue is on the double sided tape, it's usually never going to adhere properly. Many brake cleaners leave a residue.

Just a thought here, when tearing down a transmission for service or rebuild, i use NON-CLORINATED brake cleaner when cleaning components, because the other **** will leave residue

Just a thought OP ;)
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79Scott

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I used some of LMC's cut to length side moldings and didn't have an issue with it coming off......I cant remember what I used to clean the paint tho.
 

QBuff02

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I just recently did the exact same thing last month with installing the lmc precut trim kit, if I remember correctly it has to be installed above 65 degrees and they specifically say in the instructions to use alcohol to prep the surface before applying/installing the trim pieces. In the mechanic world I live in, I never use brake clean or carb and choke cleaner of any kind if i'm wanting something to stick, they have a tendency to almost "eat" whatever you're cleaning with them even after they dry. The brake clean of today especially seems to even eat paint (I use it to spray on and wipe off paint marker hours and dates when I install new filters into fixed housings- one little spray and a rag wipes them right off) I did the install and used glass cleaner initially and then followed that with wiping all surfaces with alcohol and let sit for about 20 minutes before installing the trim pieces and have had zero issues with the trim "lifting" off the body. Unfortunately i'd say unless you replace them with all new again (which sucks at like $180 for the set delivered) and use alcohol to prep beforehand you're going to have a constant fight on your hands and won't be happy until you do.

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@Dads84 , that sucks, but your truck is beautiful!
Is it everywhere or just in certain areas?
Have you tried beating with a heat gun? Gently of course.
Another option if it’s not working is they make very thin double sided molding tape. Peel them off and use a second layer of tape?

Edit: heating not beating it with a heat gun, lol
 
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AuroraGirl

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Just a thought here, when tearing down a transmission for service or rebuild, i use NON-CLORINATED brake cleaner when cleaning components, because the other **** will leave residue

Just a thought OP ;)
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whats the benefit of chlorinated brake clean anyway? if i wanted it to be like 1915 in my shop i would just start painting with no ventilation
 

bucket

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whats the benefit of chlorinated brake clean anyway? if i wanted it to be like 1915 in my shop i would just start painting with no ventilation

I buy the chlorinated. It tends to do a better job at cleaning stuff like brake drum assemblies. This will sound bad, but I buy brake cleaner to clean brakes, not help the environment or my own personal health.
 

AuroraGirl

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I buy the chlorinated. It tends to do a better job at cleaning stuff like brake drum assemblies. This will sound bad, but I buy brake cleaner to clean brakes, not help the environment or my own personal health.
I have a chlorine sensitivity so I guess My immediate reaction is disgust, but i also dont buy CRC brand brake clean and never saw my cans chlorinated or non and never really noticed a difference.

I also hate hydrogen sulfide, thats the gas expelled by a boiling battery or just a lot of amps into an old one... a distinct, painful smell that reminds of a previous experience. That reminder hurts more than the burning of the gas
 

Dads84

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It's coming loose at the very edge on two pieces, the ones on back wheel well , behind the wheel. I think if I clean with Q-tip, using alcohol, I might get lucky and it will stick better.

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