Retrofit Electric Engine Cooling Fans

[HotRodPC]

Some find electric engine cooling fans from later model vehicles. Please post up the year, make, and model of the vehicle you got it from as well as any other information that would matter as in trim level, with or without AC if it makes a difference, engine size etc.

Aftermarket Branded Fans can be listed too. Include Brand, Model # and where it was purchased or acquired from.

Post pics of the fan, and the fan installed in your truck when you can, and pic of the vehicle you got it from if it's possible.

Be sure to note how you wired it, if a controller was needed, fan relay, temp switch etc.

A review of how it's working to keep your truck cool, if causing any charging problems or not would be appreciated too.

 

[HotRodPC]

Index of Year, Make and Model of Retrofit or Aftermarket Fans

Reserving this post for editing an index of the year make and model of fans that work and will link to the corresponding post with pics and install notes.

2002 Lincoln Town Car w/4.6L Post #3
2002 Ford Crown Vic & Mercury Grand Marquis w/ 4.6L Post #3
Ford Windstar Post #5

 

[Honky Kong jr]

2002 Lincoln Towncar with a 4.6L
2002 Crown Vic and Grand Marque with a 4.6L
These I know because I have one of each.
There are 2 diff rant styles:
1 is a single speed with a resistor for low speed. These will work on high if wired direct. The resistors , as I have found is obsolete.
2 is a 2 speed motor that has 3 wires that go directly into the motor.


Top one is the resistor style single speed motor
Bottom one is 2 speed motor
These fans do have large shrouds, how ever, they move a lot of air I've read 2000cfm low 4200cfm high. Also these puppy's pull a boat load of amps. Good idea to run battery direct via at least a 30 amp relay for low and 50 amp relay for high. Or a 50 amp relay with 1 normally closed and 1 normally open relay NC for low and NO for high.

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[74 Shortbed]

Good info, was thinking of going with the Windsatar but if the single is just as good and fits this may be a better choice, I would assume an upgrade to a 100 amp alternator would be a must too.

 

[SkinnyG]

I have Ford Windstar dual fans on my '77. I made very simple brackets to attach them to the rad - it fits awesome.

With the fans on a toggle, it will over-cool the engine - that is, the engine will get colder even with the thermostat closed.

I used a Sunfire/Cavalier re-call starter relay because they are everywhere in the wreckers and cheap.

I used a fan control switch from a 1990 Ford Escort, which turns on at the perfect temperature, and threads right into the unused temp gauge bung on the passenger head - BUT - I am finding the heat from my headers are melting the internals of the switch; I currently run it off a toggle.

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[HotRodPC]

I have Ford Windstar dual fans on my '77. I made very simple brackets to attach them to the rad - it fits awesome.

With the fans on a toggle, it will over-cool the engine - that is, the engine will get colder even with the thermostat closed.

I used a Sunfire/Cavalier re-call starter relay because they are everywhere in the wreckers and cheap.

I used a fan control switch from a 1990 Ford Escort, which turns on at the perfect temperature, and threads right into the unused temp gauge bung on the passenger head - BUT - I am finding the heat from my headers are melting the internals of the switch; I currently run it off a toggle.

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How about using a water temp bung in the intake manifold? The only issue I see with that is, the temp in the head can be 10 degrees or so hotter and would have the fans come on at a bit higher cylinder head temp.

 

[HotRodPC]

I've heard that Buick Rendezvous dual fans fit also. That should mean Pontiac Aztec will also work. Anyone have a Rendezvous or Aztec set up?

 

[SkinnyG]

How about using a water temp bung in the intake manifold?

I have an older Edelbrack Performer, and the only bung in the intake is inaccessibly under the thermostat housing and hose.

I did recently get a swivel housing so I can position the hose out of the way, but I will be using that bung for the ECT sensor for EFI. Advantage - the ECU will be controlling the fan for me.

But year, that could work, as long as you have a bung you can get to.

There was a bung in the original thermostat housing, but I figured if the thermostat stuck closed, the fan would never turn on - not what I wanted.

 

[HotRodPC]

I have an older Edelbrack Performer, and the only bung in the intake is inaccessibly under the thermostat housing and hose.

I did recently get a swivel housing so I can position the hose out of the way, but I will be using that bung for the ECT sensor for EFI. Advantage - the ECU will be controlling the fan for me.

But year, that could work, as long as you have a bung you can get to.

There was a bung in the original thermostat housing, but I figured if the thermostat stuck closed, the fan would never turn on - not what I wanted.

The only other option I can think of is the inline radiator hose bung.
https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=201161560995&lpid=82&&&ul_noapp=true&chn=ps

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[SkinnyG]

Could probably also put one in the heater hose, as coolant always flows through those too.

I didn't find the head-mounted switch far off for temp at all. I've temporarily hooked the fans up to a toggle switch, and if I leave them on, it's a LOT of air moving.

 

[75gmck25]

I have a stock 3 row radiator in my GMC that I bought from Advanced Auto Parts or Autozone, and it has an extra threaded fitting a couple inches below the top fitting for the transmission cooler. When I bought it there was a threaded plug in it and I've never removed it. I don't know if this fitting is for a temp sensor, but its possible.

The fittings on mine look similar to the radiator in this picture, except my radiator is an old one with metal fins and a metal tank.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2782936&cc=1159073&jsn=400&jsn=400&jsn=400

I also used a temp sensor for my mechanical temp gauge in the passenger side head for a while, and didn't find that it read much different than a sensor in the Edelbrock manifold. I use the mechanical gauge because the stock in-dash gauge has no temp markings in my '75 truck.

Bruce

 

[HotRodPC]

I need to do something with my C20. It's full of new about 55-60% coolant and if I sit and idle it gets warm, like about 230 so I have to rev the engine up and then can get it to cool to about 210. Going down the highway it's 180-190, but I sit 3 or 4 cars at the bank drive through it heats up. I'm thinking bad fan clutch. Water pump is new, thermostat is new and it's only when parked and idling so I'm pretty sure it's got to be the fan. Either that, the radiator is clogging up, but water seems to run pretty good after the Tstat pops. I also have a recovery bottle. It fills when it gets hot, and sucks it back in as it cools just like it's supposed to, so the sealed cooling system is working well too. I've got a dual electric aftermarket fan I got from an 87 Burb that I intend to install someday. I'll have to install it, get some pics and find the brand and model # on it.

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[bluex]

Jeep Grand Cherokee fan assembly. These were fairly cheap several years ago when Jeep did a recall. They are a good bit higher now I believe. I got mine for about $50 shipped from
what I remember. Fits on the factory shroud and I used a temp switch in the passenger head to control the fan relay. Working pretty well so far.


The Mopar part number is CBG4F250 its from around model year 2002 with a 4.0 or 4.7 engine.

For fan comtrol i used a relay kit similar to Jegs 555-10560 they are cheaper on ebay though. I will switch to pcm control when I go to fuel injection.

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[gmachinz]

I like to use the Lincoln Mark VIII or T-Bird fans....

 

[gmachinz]

....then I take a stock SB fan shroud.....and I trim off the Ford fans' mounting ears and secure the top and bottom INSIDE the truck shroud using 3 aluminum pop rivets on top and bottom....

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