Removing a leaf from a spring pack...which one?

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SquareRoot

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I'm adding 3 degree shims to my rear springs. The pins they sent with them are the same length (4 inch) as what is currently in the spring pack and won't be long enough with the shim. No big deal as I have been wanting to remove a leaf to "unstiffen" the ride slightly. That will solve the pin issue but which leaf is the correct one to remove? Obviously not the top or bottom but I would think the shorter ones on the bottom would have more an effect on overall stiffness?
 
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Keith Seymore

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Depends.

The shorter ones at the bottom may be "overload" springs, that is, if they are thick and flat then they do not engage until the truck is really loaded. If that is the case then they are basically "spacers" of the thickness in the middle.

Any above that that match the curve are actually affecting your ride stiffness at curb weight.

K
 

bucket

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Imho, remove the shortest (bottom) leaf from the main spring pack.
 

Redfish

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I'm adding 3 degree shims to my rear springs. The pins they sent with them are the same length (4 inch) as what is currently in the spring pack and won't be long enough with the shim. No big deal as I have been wanting to remove a leaf to "unstiffen" the ride slightly. That will solve the pin issue but which leaf is the correct one to remove? Obviously not the top or bottom but I would think the shorter ones on the bottom would have more an effect on overall stiffness?
I removed the bottom leaf, the shortest leaf in the stack when I modified my front springs. I agonized over that decision...it worked out okay for what I was trying to accomplish. In my case I had to shorten the bolt/pin afterwards. I wanted to get the nose level with, or slightly lower than the rear. It had a very slight "squat" which was NOT acceptable to me.


My Skyjacker SoftRide springs came with 5 leaf springs:

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The stack all apart:

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SquareRoot

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Update. Removed the bottom leaf above the overload leaf and replaced with the 3 degree ORD shim. That corrected the pinion angle since the new driveline is a CV. Ride height stayed exactly the same and the ride is noticably smoother. A good day!
 

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Grit dog

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^You got a slip yoke at the back? Never seen that before. Is that OE or?
How much of a lift are you correcting for with the beveled shim?
 

SquareRoot

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^You got a slip yoke at the back? Never seen that before. Is that OE or?
How much of a lift are you correcting for with the beveled shim?
Yep. I've seen trucks with the slip on the axle end. Most of the custom trucks and rails that swarm the sand dunes are like that. Usually it's used with a Double Carden on the other end. I only have a two inch lift due to the rancho springs to PO put on. The issue was switching from a u joint to the CV. CV points the pinion directly at the front output unlike the 3 degree offset when using stock joint. In short, needed 3* shims.
 

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