Rebuilding the 203 NP transfer case

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MrMarty51

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Them ATV/Motorcycle jacks works good for this.
I had to use blocks between the jack and the T.C. to stabilize it, and ,seeing as how I had the pickup jacked so high, about two inces too much, it required the blocking, in this pic. I had removed the blocking except for just the 4X4 to keep the T.C. level, sort of.

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I had the T.C. loaded on the trailer, went with it to the car warsh :emotions33: , the manager caught Me before I could even get backed into the stall, told Me I was`nt going to be warshing that dirty greeasy thing in any of His bays :confused: , fugger, is`nt that what carwarshes is for ? , so back home, here with it on the hoist, scraping and wire brushing, oh well, such is life.

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Onto the bench,ready for the first step, remove the output yoke.
The book shows this yoke holding wrench device, I do`nt have one, besides,Impacts quicker and less painfull.

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Next is the front bearing retainer

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The earlier models did`nt have this extension,it was one piece, so off this comes, rear output housing~rear.Book calls it "Second Design."

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MrMarty51

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Now the book calls for lifting the case with a hoist and standing it on the front, blocking it up.
Removing the rear output housing, front, then lifting that off.

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If they havent already fallen off, a hose clamp keeps them rollers securely on the shaft and keeps them from, well, rolling away.

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Drive the pin out of the shift fork, remove the poppet ball plug~spring~ball, a small magnet`LL keep the poppet ball from falling where it`ll never be found again, then push the fork shaft downwards while lifting on the fork and sliding lock clutch.Remove the fork.

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One of them magnetic parts containers is nice to keep from losing them small items, such as the poppet ball and spring and the fork pin.
Probably be more parts in there before its all done.

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OK, thats enough for today, more to come in a while.
 

MrMarty51

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Remove the front output shaft rear bearing cap.

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One of these tapered reamers takes out the aluminum that is squeezed into the bolt holes alloowing ther bolts to fit proper in reassembling.

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Remove the fron output shaft yoke.

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Then the front output shaft bearing/seal retainer.

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I did forget to take some pics. right about in here, but, next is to remove the front output shaft from the case.
 
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MrMarty51

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Remove intermediate chain housing bolts, then remove chain housing. The chain was a bit difficult as it had to be pressed against the sides of the case to avoid entangling into the sprocket, not bad You know, but just a sort of a nuisance.
Then it should look something like this.
Then remove lockout clutch drive gear and input shaft from range box.
Now that is where I forgot to take some pics; sorry about that.

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pull up on shift rail,

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and disconnect rail from link then remove input shaft assembly from from range box.


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And so now, the input shaft assembly is out and on the bench.

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Driver4r

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Is it just a rebuild, or are you going to add anything like a part time kit?
 

MrMarty51

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Then, if everything was done proper, it should look something like this down inside the case.

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Remove Shifter assembly:
Remove poppet plate, spring, plug and gasket, then disengage sliding clutch gear from input gear. remove clutch fork and sliding gear from case.

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Remove shift lever retaining nut, upper shift lever, shift lever snap ring and lower lever.

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Push shifter shaft assembly down and remove lockout clutch connector link.Remove shifter shaft assembly and seperate the inner and outer shifter shafts. Remove/discard the o-rings.
and it then should look something like this.


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Drive the pin out of the idler gear and there that is.

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MrMarty51

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Is it just a rebuild, or are you going to add anything like a part time kit?

OH Yes, part time kit is going in.
I have heard good and bad about them kits, if it is bad, I hope to have a 205 by then. :signs6:
 

Driver4r

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lol, im still standing behind mine, cause it hasnt blown up yet(runing 2 diferent gear ratios).
 

MrMarty51

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And the idler gears rollers.

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Mark the spider gears case halves for reassembly purposes.
Remove the four bolts holding the spider gears case halves together.

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Set that off to the side.

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Remove the snap ring.

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And then You get what should resemble something like this.

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Inspect all parts and pieces, wahing in solvent and blow drying or air drying if time permits, such as I have.:happy175:

Thats all the pics. I have for now. I`m a waiting for parts.
 

MrMarty51

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One more thing.
Be very carefull when You remove that spiders T from off the case half, them things are really slick, and, them spiders`LL slide off a there juz slicker n snot. Please dont ask Me how I know, oh well, I had needles and rings scattered all over unner that there table. :shrug: :popcorn:
 

MrMarty51

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lol, im still standing behind mine, cause it hasnt blown up yet(runing 2 diferent gear ratios).

K00L, thats good to know.
As suggested by one of the members, I am going to ebay and ordering in one of those small parts kits, just so I think I`ll have it all, along with some peace of mind that snaping rings~n~things`ll be new too.
 

MrMarty51

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lol, im still standing behind mine, cause it hasnt blown up yet(runing 2 diferent gear ratios).

I have the Super Winch kit, is that what You have in Yours ???
 
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Driver4r

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I have the Mile Marker kit, is that what You have in Yours ???

No clue, the tcase and trans were Fresh rebuilds when i bought the truck from my uncle.
 

MrMarty51

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New needle roller bearings into the idler gear, there are three rows with spacers between the rows of bearings.

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Idler gear into the case, there are thrust washers that goes between the case and the gear assembly, be sure to get the keepers into their notches in the case.

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Idler gear shaft installed, be sure to align the flat on the shaft with the new gasket so there`ll not be a problem down the road, I laid the gasket on the case then marked where the flat was supposed to be, to be sure aliugnment was correct, recheck with gasket on the case to be sure.

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Installed, be sure to check the end play and that the gear assembly rolls freely on the shaft and in the case.

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Bolt the front input bearing retainer onto the case, shove the input shaft into the bearing then with some heavy grease, the needle roller bearings are laid onto the shaft.


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MrMarty51

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At this time I must apologize to the members of the forum.
I got in a bit of a bind in assembling and getting the Super Winch 4X2 part time kit installed and I forgot to take pictures as I went.
All I got was the assembled transfer case range selector box assembled.

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Thats it.:mad::mad3::slap:
 

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