Quadrabog bogs

iamtherealJayy

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Here’s some photos regarding the smoke. Coolant is low, I just changed the heater core so it was freshly filled. There is moisture in the exhaust, and it is really black in the exhaust.
 

iamtherealJayy

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I’ll work on getting a timing light asap since I need it to redo the timing on the 78 when I change intake manifold gaskets. I have a multimeter and a vacuum gauge. I’ll t into a vacuum line with a gauge after it cools. The battery is obviously too small for the truck in my opinion. The alternator shows charging when the motor is spinning faster but at idle it’s showing around 12 bolts.
 

Bextreme04

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Here’s some photos regarding the smoke. Coolant is low, I just changed the heater core so it was freshly filled. There is moisture in the exhaust, and it is really black in the exhaust.
Before you get too far ahead of yourself. Does the engine oil look muddy? Fill the coolant up to the top and see if it disappears again. That much coolant going into the combustion chamber would make a HUGE vapor cloud.
 

Bextreme04

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I’ll work on getting a timing light asap since I need it to redo the timing on the 78 when I change intake manifold gaskets. I have a multimeter and a vacuum gauge. I’ll t into a vacuum line with a gauge after it cools. The battery is obviously too small for the truck in my opinion. The alternator shows charging when the motor is spinning faster but at idle it’s showing around 12 bolts.
That voltage at idle combined with the squealing could be from a loose alternator belt. I suggest tightening that up as much as you can. Raising the idle will also help that some.
 

CheemsK1500

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Everytime a Q jet gets mentioned in the original post, the thread devolves into a Q jet bashing thread.

When properly built and configured for the drive train combo they sit on (Q jets have been used on everything from small Buick V6s to massive Cadillac V8s.) they are arguably the best 4 barrel ever built in terms of their performance to fuel economy ratio. They are also one of the few 4 barrels to be used on Ford, GM, and Mopar cars.

Most Q jet issues stem from poor rebuilds, not knowing how to properly tune a Q Jet and using the wrong variation of Q Jet on a particular engine.
 

iamtherealJayy

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I checked the oil the other day and it looks fine. Not like a Reese milkshake. I’ve tightened it as much as I can by myself I’ll have to have someone pry it over while I tighten bolts and try again
 

iamtherealJayy

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I’m 100% fine with running a quadrajet. I think it’s a great carb when done right. Everyone goes edelbrock for simplicity and holley for performance my honest opinion. This truck is based solely around reliability and fuel economy.
 

SirRobyn0

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Everytime a Q jet gets mentioned in the original post, the thread devolves into a Q jet bashing thread.

When properly built and configured for the drive train combo they sit on (Q jets have been used on everything from small Buick V6s to massive Cadillac V8s.) they are arguably the best 4 barrel ever built in terms of their performance to fuel economy ratio. They are also one of the few 4 barrels to be used on Ford, GM, and Mopar cars.

Most Q jet issues stem from poor rebuilds, not knowing how to properly tune a Q Jet and using the wrong variation of Q Jet on a particular engine.
Agree, but there are plenty of us here that agree with what you just said. I'm one of those people and what you just wrote could have just as easily come from me.
 

SirRobyn0

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Matt69olds

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Everytime a Q jet gets mentioned in the original post, the thread devolves into a Q jet bashing thread.

When properly built and configured for the drive train combo they sit on (Q jets have been used on everything from small Buick V6s to massive Cadillac V8s.) they are arguably the best 4 barrel ever built in terms of their performance to fuel economy ratio. They are also one of the few 4 barrels to be used on Ford, GM, and Mopar cars.

Most Q jet issues stem from poor rebuilds, not knowing how to properly tune a Q Jet and using the wrong variation of Q Jet on a particular engine.


Man, I love seeing real common sense replies like this!!!!

The Q-Jet is the most versatile, efficient, best all around street carb ever made. GM build hundreds of millions of them, every 4 barrel gas square body truck used one. When new, these cars and trucks were expected to start in any environment without a fuss. Properly built, tuned, and maintained, there is zero reason they can’t perform that way today.

You hit the nail on the head. Most people have no clue how to properly build or tune a carb. You are not going to fix 40 years of wear with a 30 dollar autozone rebuild kit and a can of carb cleaner.

The guys that say “get a Holley!” are just stubborn or lazy. But I get it, most people who buy those carbs and bolt them on won’t bother tuning them any further than setting the idle speed, and MAYBE adjusting the idle mixture. If dialing in a universal carb (universal implies it will work on most engines, but will be far from optimized on almost everything) is too much hassle, then obviously spending the time and money to build and adjust a Q-Jet is out of the question.
 

iamtherealJayy

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@SirRobyn0 ive watched the video, I rewatched them just now. This truck starts right up idles just fine and all except the in gear wot. I’m not sure if it was audible in the video but is a like bell sound common after switching to drive or reverse? The truck makes a ding kinda sound after I put it in gear I don’t know if that has any correlation with the running issue or not I’m still learning automatics.
 

Snoots

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Ding sound is likely U-Joints.
White smoke can indicate a leaky diaphram on the vacuum modulator on the tranny.
 

iamtherealJayy

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How could I verify ujoint? Watch under the truck when someone puts it in gear? The front one has been replaced at some point it’s too shiny looking to be original. How do I check the “diaphragm on the vacuum modulator on the tranny”?
 

Bextreme04

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How could I verify ujoint? Watch under the truck when someone puts it in gear? The front one has been replaced at some point it’s too shiny looking to be original. How do I check the “diaphragm on the vacuum modulator on the tranny”?
Grab the driveshaft and shake and rotate it. Bad u-joint will let you move it around and make clinking noises.

Pull the hose off the modulator on the trans. If fluid comes out, you have a bad modulator.
 

iamtherealJayy

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I’ll have to google about the modulator to see a picture since I have 0 idea what I’m looking for. I’ll go shake both driveshafts now.
 

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