pulls to right quickly if you let go wheel,zero tire wear for 18yrs.

Bextreme04

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exactly, and there isn't any blind spline on the steering wheel as far as I know. So if it doesn't line up and everything else is centered, you just need to pull the steering wheel off and center it on the shaft. The steering column to steering gear has an orientation and the steering gear to the pitman arm also has one on the 4wd, I'm not sure about 2wd.
 

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I would assume trueing the steering wheel at the column would be needed as well?
cannot adjust any of alignment points they are correct, tho i think i understand wat ur saying, if steering arm and center link do not realign remove or shud be removed first then find center gearbox, center of wheels, replace arm in position that works without moving, i think it is right, i'm thinking now wrong arm, either too long or to short, that wud cause oversteer one way not other, strwheel is perfect 1n3/4 turns each way, i did not check stops. pitman arm cud be wrong length cause same oversteer problem tho not sure bout pulling, steerbox more logical. this '81 nothing like '85, can you check lengths of yours. just to compare tho i have no idea without checking book specs, currently working on dirtbike, i have torn into a strbox, adjust play out, more likely pitman, unless theres like a center type stop or divet to cause pulling...thanx for idea gives me my first real option in 18yrs..:favorites37:
 

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greyghost

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The difference in turning center left to right makes me think that someone got the steering box off center at some point. I would suggest you put the front end in the air and turn it full lock to the right while counting the number of turns of the steering wheel from center. Then check to make sure the spindle stops are actually touching the lockout. Then do the same to the left and see if it is touching the stops. Standard procedure on a steering gear change is to have the steering arm off the box and turn the wheel full stop to the left. Then turn the wheel all the way full stop to the right while counting the number of turns it takes. Then halve that number and turn the wheel that number of turns back to the left to find the true center of the steering gear. The gear will naturally try to return to that position, so you want to make sure the steering gear and the suspension are both in the centered position when they are connected together. I would bet that when your wheels are centered straight ahead, your steering gear is actually offset to the left, so when you let go of the steering wheel it tries to pull it to the right to center the steering gear.

To fix this, I would pull the truck straight into a shop so that I know the wheels are centered. Then disconnect the steering arm and find center on the steering gear by either of the methods mentioned in my post above. Then once the steering gear is centered, see if the steering gear lines up without moving the wheels at all. I bet they won't line up anymore. Then you just need to adjust the tie rods equal and opposite on both sides to maintain your alignment but move the actual steering position over to where the steering gear now lines up with the centered steering gear.
f u adjust rods you change toe...right? or shorten one side while lengthening other keeping wheels in same position...
 

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It isn't very common, but a box can do that.

Assume alignment shop didn't see anything, what are the readings?

Belt shift within the tires can cause it, swap the front tires side to side.

Tires scrubbing, are the visible threads on the tie rods somewhat even?

Front tires reasonably close to centered in the wheel well? Reason I ask that is if the control arms are wrong or swapped it is sometimes visible there.

Front wheels same offset?
I cudn't find alignment specs in pickup, so they're around here in my office, i'll find them, i'm curious now bout them before i was frustrated it didnt fix issue...
 

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fast 99

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I did alignments for 10+ years.

Right tire shows camber wear. Need to get different tires on it as a starting point. Will never drive correctly otherwise.
 

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I cudn't find alignment specs in pickup, so they're around here in my office, i'll find them, i'm curious now bout them before i was frustrated it didnt fix issue...
jesus... those tires are completed F'ed. I wouldn't drive anywhere over about 20mph with that kind of obvious dry rot... they are a ticking time bomb waiting to explode. I just replaced some older BFGoodrich that were starting to dry rot and were about bald. The difference in steering feel and sound level with some nice new rubber was incredible. Drives like a whole new truck now.
 

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I did alignments for 10+ years.

Right tire shows camber wear. Need to get different tires on it as a starting point. Will never drive correctly otherwise.
after 18 yrs thats gotta be the slightest of wear and i'm not worried bout that if i figure out causing pulling to right
 

greyghost

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jesus... those tires are completed F'ed. I wouldn't drive anywhere over about 20mph with that kind of obvious dry rot... they are a ticking time bomb waiting to explode. I just replaced some older BFGoodrich that were starting to dry rot and were about bald. The difference in steering feel and sound level with some nice new rubber was incredible. Drives like a whole new truck now.
and why i dont drive cross country, 18 yrs wat do you expect still like new looking at tread depth
 

Bextreme04

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and why i dont drive cross country, 18 yrs wat do you expect still like new looking at tread depth
Cross country has nothing to do with it... I don't think I'd try driving those tires down my street. That is exactly the kind of tire that has a catastrophic blowout and takes out other parts of the vehicle or causes a rollover. I think you have your answer on how to fix this though:

1. Get new tires.
2. Check that all steering components are properly centered
 

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Greyghost.
I had something like this happen to me years ago on my old 76 c20 square.
It turned out to be the flex hose between the frame and rh front brake caliper had gone bad. It caused that caliper not to release properly.
Diagnosed by cracking the blead nipple to release the pressure on the side it pulled to.
No touching brakes ( use gears and e brake) drive the truck and see if it still pulls. Then i braked normally, and it started pulling again. Replaced hose reblead the front brakes problem solved. Thought it was the caliper at first but it wasnt, it was the flex hose. Never had it again on any truck, car ive owned. After 41 years of driving.
 

1979 K10

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Could be a sticking driver side caliper or deterioration of driver rubber brake line (deteriorate from the inside and act as a check valve which allows brake fluid to caliper but doesn’t release pressure when off brake pedal.)
 

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after 18 yrs thats gotta be the slightest of wear and i'm not worried bout that if i figure out causing pulling to right
Camber split WILL cause PULLING. Uneven tread wear WILL cause PULLING. Old tires could very easily cause PULLING. The truck needs a good baseline to diagnose the issue. There is a bunch of people on here that KNOW how to fix vehicles. If you not going to listen to suggestions, why ask? I'm out.
 
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ReefkoiC10

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18 year old tires? Replace them and you’ll probably be good to go! Tires arent supposed to be in service anywhere near that long.
 

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@greyghost, you initially said no tire wear. Assuming those tires you posted, the worn out sides are the insides, either you have WAY too much toe in, or extremely bad camber angles.
Those tires are evidence of a gross misalignment of some sort.
 

1979 c20

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Toe out sir, toe out. Toe in eats the outer edges. A pull is most likely a camber and/or caster inequality.

It is hard to tell inboard from outboard on those pics.
 

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