Power Window Question Again

[Kirk T]

I know that has been asked in different ways but I would like to ask one more time. I have a 1985 K10. Both of the window switches are getting power (using a test light) and the proper power is getting to the window motors but the motors are not working in the door. I can take the motor out of the door and using alligator clips and wires to the battery, they will perform as they should. I don't understand how the motor is grounded when in the door. When I move the door switch from up to down the corresponding wire lights up with the test light but I don't know how the ground is supposed to get to the motor when there is only two wires going to the motor? I tried grounding the frame of the motor but it still won't work unless the motor is wire hooked to the POS terminal and the other motor terminal hooked to the NEG side of the battery. Reverse the wires at the battery and the motor runs the opposite way as it should.

Why can't I get it to work in the door?

 

[Charlie]

 

[Matt69olds]

The motors don’t ground thru the motor housing, they change direction by reversing motor polarity. Will either window work from any of the switches?

 

[Snoots]

Go here:

http://www.mediafire.com/file/v5bbj...MC_Light_Truc_Wiring_Manual_CK_10_30_Only.pdf

Most GM window motors I've seen and used, do ground through the motor frame. The 2 wires that go to the motor supply +VDC, one for UP and one for DOWN.

I hope the link will help. It's from the GMSB front page.

 

[Kirk T]

No neither switch works but they are both getting power and the switches are brand new

 

[gmachinz]

The entire window circuit (meaning all leads NOT pink) are normally grounded at rest. The drivers side black wire is the circuit ground for everything. Moving the switch only removes one lead from ground to +12V. So to test your ground circuit try this:

Set your meter to ohms and clamp one lead to the black switch stud with the connector lifted off the switch just enough for you to make contact with an alligator clip.

Now, if everything is grounded properly through the drivers switch you should see:

LH switch-Continuity between black and brown with switch pushed up and continuity between black and dark blue with switch pushed down.

RH switch-continuity between black and tan with switch pushed up and continuity between black and blue w/white with switch pushed down.

If that switch checks out, look at the passenger side window switch and follow the same procedure there on the tan and blue w/white wires.

 

[gmachinz]

Did you ever get this sorted out?