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Performance flywheel/clutch

Discussion in 'Manual Transmission & Clutch' started by AustinDube, Feb 3, 2017.

  1. AustinDube

    AustinDube 1976 Chevy K10 Custom Deluxe

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  2. CSFJ

    CSFJ ----------------- Supporting Member

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    Hate to break it to you, but no amount of race parts in the world will help get through the gears of a dump truck transmission quicker. I'm not knocking the 465, I'll be putting one in my truck soon, but that transmission was meant to be strong, not quick.
     
  3. 87scotty

    87scotty Full Access Member

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    The light weight flywheel will rev quicker but you lose your momentum quicker between shifts and taking off its a win lose all driver prefrence
     
  4. AustinDube

    AustinDube 1976 Chevy K10 Custom Deluxe

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    So i'll prob put that in, mostly to try to achieve smoother shifting, and rev it up before shifting up to the next gear. I also wanna do some tack welds on the nose of my shifter where it is cracked and loose. But i do love my ol muncie
     
  5. bucket

    bucket Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Just save your money. You won't like it and you will end up putting your stock flywheel back in. An aluminum flywheel has no business being in a truck with an SM465, or any street driven vehicle for that matter. If they were so great, everyone would have one and the OEM's would use them.
     
  6. RustySS

    RustySS Junior Member

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    I agree with bucket and CSFJ. There is nothing wrong with a good stock flywheel. I would take solid dependability over faster shifts any day. The 465 is meant to work and to take abuse. If faster shifting is what you are set on, then perhaps consider looking at a ZF swap. Just my opinion
     
  7. bucket

    bucket Super Moderator Staff Member

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    That's the thing, an aluminum flywheel won't provide faster shifts anyway.
     
  8. Rusty Nail

    Rusty Nail Victim of Culture

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    I like this thread.
    Dude, you want a HEAVIER flywheel.
     
  9. AustinDube

    AustinDube 1976 Chevy K10 Custom Deluxe

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    how bout a dual friction clutch? any good? what do u reccomend?
     
  10. RustySS

    RustySS Junior Member

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    I wouldn't bother with a dual friction clutch. Unless you have 800+ ft/lbs of torque and pulling heavy loads, a monster clutch like that belongs behind a Cummins. Besides, it will give you such a stiff clutch pedal and a sore leg. It would definitely not give you any advantage with fast shifts, and most likely put unnecessary strain on the vulnerable cast aluminum bellhousing. A resurfaced stock steel flywheel and even an off the shelf Parts Store clutch will handle all the power from a Big Block (within reason) while turning big tires, and never give you an issue as long as you don't ride the pedal. There is nothing wrong with stock replacement parts. For example, just last weekend I removed the transfer case and transmission from my 1979. I am overhauling them with new bearings and seals etc. Since I was there, I thought it would be wise to pull the bellhousing and inspect the clutch. It is still in very good condition after 14 years of hard work behind a mild 400sbc. I gave the flywheel a quick buzz with an abrasive disc, cleaned the pressure plate & friction disc, and re-used them without any doubt in my mind. I did change the through-out and pilot bearings though. At this point, I didn't even consider installing the dual friction clutch that my friend gave me for free, because I don't want my left leg looking like Arnold Schwarzenegger's bicep. Keep it simple dude, realistically it's a heavy 4WD pickup truck, not a 10 second Camaro or a 1000ft/lb diesel trailer puller. One last thing, you could get 3 stock replacement clutches for the price of that monster clutch. Less is more. I would invest in quality Spicer U-Joints over an aftermarket clutch any day, but that's just my preference. In your case, I would stick with the stock heavy steel flywheel, get it properly machined, and a good Centerforce clutch would be my suggestion. You will be very happy with the performance.

    Just my opinion
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2017
  11. AustinDube

    AustinDube 1976 Chevy K10 Custom Deluxe

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    Srry i need the advice lol, im 15 and workin on my 2nd truck, just underestimating the older aged part cause the age. But honestly these are some solid old trucks! Just starting to learn stuff about these trucks, and another question is that on a small block 350 what headers should I put on it? long tube? short tube? anyone have clearance issues with some? and how close to the starter wires would they be because my starter wires are pretty close to the factory manifolds so i fabricated a bracket to bolt the wires to the bellhousing to keep the wiring away from the exhaust
     
  12. RustySS

    RustySS Junior Member

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    Don't be sorry or afraid to ask for knowledge and opinions from others. I'm happy to see the new generation taking an interest in keeping these old trucks alive.

    Honestly, I don't have an opinion on header selection as I prefer to run ported cast iron manifolds because I like the OEM appearance and header leaks drive me nuts. Good call keeping your wiring away from heat.
     
  13. bucket

    bucket Super Moderator Staff Member

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    All the brands fit pretty well. I've only dealt with longtubes.

    Flowtechs are all around a good bargain.
    Hooker fits well, but plug wire routing can be a pain on #6 or #7 (don't remember which).
    Hedman has a set that is easy to install, but hits the spring shackles on a 4x4.
    Hedman has another set that tucks up nicely, but are harder to install and can cause clearance issues with an automatic shifter.


    I've never run Dynomax or Summit headers.
     
  14. Rusty Nail

    Rusty Nail Victim of Culture

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    Read.
    Make what you already have, work better. Your 40 year old truck didn't make it this far being a piece of shit. You own some of the finest automotive engineering on the planet.

    Learn about it. Use this board, no need to apologize. If you want to to buy something, pick up a Haynes manual.

    If you get tired of reading, shine it. Clean motors are happy.
     
  15. AustinDube

    AustinDube 1976 Chevy K10 Custom Deluxe

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    So Ive tried everything to remove my pilot bearing and it isn't budging at all! Ive used the hammer slide, didnt work, bread trick, didnt work, and now im left with a shot pilot bearing full of bread! Ive tried to use a screwdriver and sharpen it with the grinder and splitting the bearing. Its a little brass bearing so its generally weak, should I keep up with trying to break up the bearing? im just a little scared of hitting the crank.
     

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