On-Board Air Compresssor ?!?!?

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HotRodPC

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Soooo, with my K10/K20 project. My front axle is going to be the 10 bolt ARB Air Locker 4.10 axle that I acquired. The guy had given the ARB Air Compressor to some other idiot who didn't even need it for anything.

I've got a cheap China 2 gallon air compressor that quit working after about 4 uses. I've saved this little 2 gallon tank for the purpose of mounting it under the truck. So, my intent is to mount this little 2 gallon tank, and I've also acquired an electric air compressor that was for helper air bags for a leaf spring rear end. I'm wondering if anyone would know or think this little air compressor for air bags would be strong enough to fill this 2 gallon tank to about 100lbs? I'm not wanting to run air tools or anything like that with it, but I'm thinking if it's strong enough to keep 100lbs of air in the 2 gallon reservoir tank, then hopefully it can keep air on board to supply the ARB Air Locker with air when needed, air horns on the truck, and maybe even air up tires for the drive home when leaving the trails after airing down or fixing a flat tire with a plug kit on the trails. :shrug:

Anyone know the specs or durability of a compressor for air bags like this? I do intend to have a toggle switch in the cab with an air gauge plumbed for the tank in the cab. Then I'll use a relay and toggle switch for a gate valve to apply air to the ARB air locker to turn it off and on from within the cab.

I'm not even certain how much air the ARB air locker requires to lock up, but I think it's 90 lbs. Never used an air locker before so this is all new to me.

I see these prices for these ARB compressors and they seem to be pretty steep. Also, If I understand right, you just turn the air compressor on and the air goes direct to the locker and locks it up without any reservoir. Anyone know if it's takes constant air, or is it just enough air to engage it, it stays engaged until you release the air? I'd really prefer for it to not have to have an air compressor running the whole time it's locked up. :shrug:
 

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Soooo, with my K10/K20 project. My front axle is going to be the 10 bolt ARB Air Locker 4.10 axle that I acquired. The guy had given the ARB Air Compressor to some other idiot who didn't even need it for anything.

I've got a cheap China 2 gallon air compressor that quit working after about 4 uses. I've saved this little 2 gallon tank for the purpose of mounting it under the truck. So, my intent is to mount this little 2 gallon tank, and I've also acquired an electric air compressor that was for helper air bags for a leaf spring rear end. I'm wondering if anyone would know or think this little air compressor for air bags would be strong enough to fill this 2 gallon tank to about 100lbs? I'm not wanting to run air tools or anything like that with it, but I'm thinking if it's strong enough to keep 100lbs of air in the 2 gallon reservoir tank, then hopefully it can keep air on board to supply the ARB Air Locker with air when needed, air horns on the truck, and maybe even air up tires for the drive home when leaving the trails after airing down or fixing a flat tire with a plug kit on the trails. :shrug:

Anyone know the specs or durability of a compressor for air bags like this? I do intend to have a toggle switch in the cab with an air gauge plumbed for the tank in the cab. Then I'll use a relay and toggle switch for a gate valve to apply air to the ARB air locker to turn it off and on from within the cab.

I'm not even certain how much air the ARB air locker requires to lock up, but I think it's 90 lbs. Never used an air locker before so this is all new to me.

I see these prices for these ARB compressors and they seem to be pretty steep. Also, If I understand right, you just turn the air compressor on and the air goes direct to the locker and locks it up without any reservoir. Anyone know if it's takes constant air, or is it just enough air to engage it, it stays engaged until you release the air? I'd really prefer for it to not have to have an air compressor running the whole time it's locked up. :shrug:
I know what I would do. I'd be prebuilding it. Hook it up to your car battery. Do an abrieviated plumbing set up and see what it can do. Then you will know with out a doubt if it will work.....but I like tinkering with ****.
 

HotRodPC

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Yes, I could do that too. I'm just thinking ahead. With the parts you sent and making that trade for the Th400/NP208, I'm just getting alot closer to having the main hard parts to put this truck together the way I want it. So now it's time to start making a list of parts, like Calipers, bearings, seals, trans rebuild kit, transfer case seal kit, air line and plumbing to the ARB Air Locker and all the small things I'm going to need to put it together.

The good thing about the ARB Air Locker is, I can put the whole truck together and that can actually wait. I can hook all that up after the fact and it'll just work like an open differential front axle so it's a not stress thing at this point. I do want to replace the seals, bearings and get the correct bigger piston calipers for those parts you sent me. I'm thinking them rotors look pretty thin too, so I'm not sure if they'll turn to clean up for certain. If they do, I'll damn sure use them. Fresh turned rotors are just as good as new ones so long as they're in spec.

As far as the compressor, it's in storage so I can't get it to right now, but IIRC, it came off a Firestone Air Bag helper spring kit. I just grabbed the compressor, not the gauge, tubing or air bags. I'm hoping this is the compressor that I got. I'd say if it is, then this should be sufficient to fill a 2 gallon air tank to 100lbs since it has a 150lb limit on the compressor to fill 2 bags with a 100lb limit. I'd think the gallon tank is about the same capacity as the 2 air bags. :shrug: I just don't know for sure. I've never had those type air bags that ran off of an electric compressor, just air bags on the big rollbacks that ran off an air compressor off the engine that operated, air ride bags, air ride seats, air horns, air brakes and all that ****. I just want to be sure this little electric air compressor can hold 100psi in a 2 gallon reservoir and if that's enough to keep the locker engaged. Never had air helper bags on a pick up or an ARB air locker. :shrug:
 
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MrMarty51

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Instructions for the Firestone bags under My truck says 100 # max, so that little compressor just might do that okay.
I was in Costco in Billings the other day, they had a real nice 12 volt compressor, I think the price was about 30 dollars. I thought about getting one but passed as the budget has been extremely tight.
 

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Yes, the air bags themselves are 100lb max, but the compressor is like 150lb max. That's the way you'd want it anyway so the compressor doesn't have to work so hard.

I'd just be afraid a $30 compressor would be one of those that takes 15 minutes to fill a small 13 inch tire to about 20 lbs just to get you to an air source to air up to 32 psi. Many of those cheaper compressors that claim to be for roadside service, are a 1 time shot. By the time you run it long enough to get 25-30lbs of air in a tire it's cooked so they're about a a 1 time use type deal. They'll work for bicycle tires and footballs and such, but past that, they're junk.
 

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I think your compressor will work fine. The only limit on the small ones is they have a lower duty cycle so they'll shut off if you're trying to air up tires or running tools. The compressor I run for the Ride Rites isn't hooked to a tank, it's just plumbed straight to the bags and pumps them up to 40 psi in about 20 seconds. No way it's being overworked on such short cycles. One thing I read was that it's a good idea to prevent standing pressure at the pump. I bought a simple one-way valve and attached it to the pump's outlet port, you can see it's the silver piece hanging down off the front of the pump.

View media item 3954
 

HotRodPC

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That's kind of what I was hoping, is that if I have the tank built up with air for a head start, then the compressor won't have to work so hard on demand and would get rests in between tasks. But I didn't know about the standing pressure. So what your saying is, not allow the 100 - 110lbs of air that I'll let sit in the tank to be pushing back on the compressor cylinder/piston? So the 1 way check valve will air fill the tank, but not come back on the compressor? Is that what I'm understanding?
 

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Yup, that's exactly right.
 

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Cool, so I'll need to find one of these check valves. I'm just hoping if the compressor is rated at 145-150lbs, then it won't struggle and work to hard to build 100lbs. I just don't have alot of faith in these little compressors. So I don't want it to have to work to hard, but yet I want instant air on demand when needed for like the Air Locker or Air Horn.

I have seen it more than once, a guy trying to air up a flat 35x12.5 tire with a 12v compressor. That compressor was working it's ass off and I don't even think they had 15lbs in the tires and they things were up in smoke, and then one of them even made a cha chunk noise and then just buzzed, I think breaking either the piston or rod in it. :laughing1: But, I am hoping if my tires are aired down to 30lbs, then maybe I can air back up to 50lbs to go home. Maybe not. It'll all depend on how much air storage I have. Never know, I might even try to get a engine mounted belt driven compressor hooked up to like an AC Clutch switch with a relay on a toggle switch. I'd like plenty of air, but it may not be practical. This is why I'm not even going to consider using air tools. I've gotten spoiled having air on the roll backs. It's nice to have hose taps at both ends of the truck, the air seat, air horns etc. And I can run a small impact off of those since they usually have 2 air tanks for the air brakes and plenty of pressure. It's really nice when you go to clean out your truck and you just hook you air nozzle to an air hose and blow it out the other door. It works so much better than a vacuum cleaner.

My other idea that I'm toying with, is having a roll bar made for the truck. Make it air tight and work as an air tank. Put a tap to where I could hook a quick disconnect and gauge for filling and hooking a hose, then I can fill the roll bar full or air BEFORE I leave the house with about 125lbs of air from a real air compressor. If I need to air up a flat tire, the roll bar will be my air tank. I'll just have to do some research as far as what gauge pipe to hold how much pressure, how much air volume the bar will hold and all those good parameters.
 

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Stop fooling around and buy a Viair compressor and a 4 gallon tank with a one way checkvalve and pressure switch. I have a Viair compressor and tank mounted up underneath my F150 (sorry guys) and I have it plumbed to an air chuck as well as to my air horns and my air bags used for towing. My current compressor setup will fill from completely empty to 165 psi in under 7 minutes.


The key is to have a tank large enough for reserve air so that the compressor doesn't run constantly.

The duty cycle of the cheap off the shelf compressors will lead to their demise. Viair compressors start at around $100. Air storage tanks around $50. Trucks that are bagged mainly use Viair for a reason...durability and duty cycle.


On my Toyota off road rig. I invested in a steel tank ( supplied by my local welding supply shop)and had it filled with a mix of c02 and Nitrogen. Regulator..tank and storage rack to hold it securely in the bed of the truck $200. The air tank gets swapped out when empty for a fee of $75. The tank when full is at 800psi in the shade...and 975 in the direct sun. There is enough air reserve in the tank to use an impac and fill ALOT of tires...even set a bead if necessary. I learned that off road...air tanks work better than a 12volt compressor being beat around and exposed to water and mud.

Some other off roaders use aluminum diving tanks since they are lighter, but any dings or dents and most welding shops won't swap them for a refill due to liability and risk of rupturing under pressure.



You could also use a remote air tank to engage the arb locker as well
 
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I was tossing some numbers around at an online calculator and I'm not sure if the roll bar/tank idea would be worth the effort or not. If you used, for example, 25' of 3" pipe it would hold 9.1 gallons of air. That's more than I expected but a completely flat 33x12.5r15 tire holds 61.8 gallons of air when inflated to 35 psi.

Then there's also the issue of duty cycle vs. volume. More storage = longer run time = more heat and early failure if using a small pump. If you want lots of capacity you'll need a pump with something close to 100% duty cycle. They are available but priced accordingly.
 

smoothandlow84

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My Viair has a 50 percent duty cycle and has lasted 6 years thus far
 

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Stop fooling around and buy a Viair compressor and a 4 gallon tank with a one way checkvalve and pressure switch. I have a Viair compressor and tank mounted up underneath my F150 (sorry guys) and I have it plumbed to an air chuck as well as to my air horns and my air bags used for towing. My current compressor setup will fill from completely empty to 165 psi in under 7 minutes.


The key is to have a tank large enough for reserve air so that the compressor doesn't run constantly.

The duty cycle of the cheap off the shelf compressors will lead to their demise. Viair compressors start at around $100. Air storage tanks around $50. Trucks that are bagged mainly use Viair for a reason...durability and duty cycle.


On my Toyota off road rig. I invested in a steel tank ( supplied by my local welding supply shop)and had it filled with a mix of c02 and Nitrogen. Regulator..tank and storage rack to hold it securely in the bed of the truck $200. The air tank gets swapped out when empty for a fee of $75. The tank when full is at 800psi in the shade...and 975 in the direct sun. There is enough air reserve in the tank to use an impac and fill ALOT of tires...even set a bead if necessary. I learned that off road...air tanks work better than a 12volt compressor being beat around and exposed to water and mud.

Some other off roaders use aluminum diving tanks since they are lighter, but any dings or dents and most welding shops won't swap them for a refill due to liability and risk of rupturing under pressure.



You could also use a remote air tank to engage the arb locker as well
You make a very valid point on the compressed gas cylinder. In the long run it will be cheaper and more user friendly.:happy160:
 

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