Needing help with block id

[Sam01]

So about 2 1/2 years ago i bought a 1987 R10. Were about to do an engine hop up on the supposed original engine. When I looked up the # on the passenger front of the block, it came up as a 1978 F B motor. Any help with this?

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[bucket]

There are various sources that will tell you what those numbers mean, but there is occasionally conflicting info.

I prefer to look at the block casting number that's on the top of the bellhousing area, back by the firewall. It's harder to see, but it's very easy to look up that number and get a definitive answer on what the displacement is. I also like to pull a valve cover to see what casting # the heads are. Do you have center bolt style valve covers?

I also moved this thread to the engine section.

 

[QBuff02]

Correct, according to that suffix code it's a '78 350 for an F or B body car. Nothing special, it's a 2 bolt low compression engine. But it is still a good foundation to start with for a nice rebuild.

 

[Sam01]

There are various sources that will tell you what those numbers mean, but there is occasionally conflicting info.

I prefer to look at the block casting number that's on the top of the bellhousing area, back by the firewall. It's harder to see, but it's very easy to look up that number and get a definitive answer on what the displacement is. I also like to pull a valve cover to see what casting # the heads are. Do you have center bolt style valve covers?

I also moved this thread to the engine section.

I do have center bolt valve covers, where exactly would I look for the head casting numbers and the block number on the driver's side and would I have to remove the heads?

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[bucket]

The block number isn't so important now since you have deciphered the suffix code and it has been confirmed with another source. But it can be seen without removing anything. Usually you just need a rag and a flashlight if you don't mind cramming your head into the engine compartment. A camera on a cell phone often works too.

Center bolt heads started in '87, so they are very likely original to the truck. The casting # and date code will be right under the valve cover, between a couple of the rocker arms.

 

[Rusty Nail]

Prays for #416s!

 

[75gmck25]

One of your first decisions is how much money you want to put into your "hop up." The standard engine upgrade is a better intake manifold, mild to mid range cam (something up to about 214 @ .050), headers and exhaust, and good carburetor tuning (or in your case, tuning of your EFI).

However, to get to the next stage of HP improvement you really need better heads, and sometimes your pockets are already getting empty. Machining your old heads or using better iron heads (the ones for sale always seem to be from a Corvette) always looks tempting, but it also has limitations. The best choice for the long term is newer design heads (iron or aluminum Vortec, aftermarket aluminum, etc.), but that initial pricetag is probably $800+, and that's before you start buying new rockers, pushrods, gaskets, etc. And then you start looking at roller cam conversions and other upgrades, and realize it might have been cheaper in the long run to buy a complete crate engine with all the upgrades. Isn't this hot rod stuff fun!

Bruce

 

[idahovette]

One of your first decisions is how much money you want to put into your "hop up." The standard engine upgrade is a better intake manifold, mild to mid range cam (something up to about 214 @ .050), headers and exhaust, and good carburetor tuning (or in your case, tuning of your EFI).

However, to get to the next stage of HP improvement you really need better heads, and sometimes your pockets are already getting empty. Machining your old heads or using better iron heads (the ones for sale always seem to be from a Corvette) always looks tempting, but it also has limitations. The best choice for the long term is newer design heads (iron or aluminum Vortec, aftermarket aluminum, etc.), but that initial pricetag is probably $800+, and that's before you start buying new rockers, pushrods, gaskets, etc. And then you start looking at roller cam conversions and other upgrades, and realize it might have been cheaper in the long run to buy a complete crate engine with all the upgrades. Isn't this hot rod stuff fun!

Bruce

Bruce is right. Lots of choices and you have to shop around to make your pocketbook go as far as possible..... cubic money!!!

 

[Rusty Nail]

You can readily find thousands of people to tell you don't spend a dime on a 305 but you'll not likely find many who share your vision.

You can't unshroud the valves.
The ceiling stays low.
But whatever!

 

[Sam01]

As of now, we have a Edelbrock TBI intake, stock heads, headers and a new dual exhaust, A Summit cam that i think without looking is 288/298 and 440/468 lift with new lifters. And I know, I KNOW, the stock heads are trash, but were really wanting to do a High school kid on a budget kind of thing. That and we really are trying to save this useless but one year engine. Kinda trying to keep it all stuff I co UK ld easily swap out later. The biggest buy is going to get the chip burned.

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[Poppy 87]

You'll never know what lurks beneath those valve covers! I'd be checking that prior to deeming them to be trash stock heads. Hell it's a '78 block... just sayin

 

[Sam01]

Thanks everybody with the help, got ik t figured out and started!

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