Need help - Brakes still spongy

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Fjordlander

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Hello! I recently got this 1976 Chevy Scottsdale and the brakes were really spongy.
I replaced the brake booster and master cylinder and then bled the brakes but when I was done the brakes were still spongy.
The vacuum hose going to the booster has good suction so I don't think that's the issue.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 

fast 99

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Rear brake adjustment? Did you pre-bleed the master before installation? If not is the master at an angle? Could trap air.

Be careful and not bottom the master out especially when bench bleeding. It is possible on some masters to cut a cup internally doing that.

Change bleed method. Gravity or with a helper.
 

Turbo4whl

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As @fast 99 asked, are the rear brakes adjusted properly? The duel piston master cylinder on these trucks will be hard to bleed if there is a lot of rear brake shoe travel.

You can trick this by applying the emergency brake, then bleeding the rear brake cylinders first, then the fronts.
 

Fjordlander

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I did not adjust the rear brakes at all but I bled from rear to front with the e-brake on and they bled fine. I had a helper when bleeding so I don't think my method was the issue but I might try again.

I bench-bled the master cylinder before installing it too. It was really hard to push so I don't think I bottomed it out and damaged it that way but I'll keep that in mind if nothing else works out.

Is it possible I need a proportioning valve? The old setup didn't have one so I didn't put one on this time. Just the booster and master cylinder
 

Turbo4whl

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Is it possible I need a proportioning valve? The old setup didn't have one so I didn't put one on this time. Just the booster and master cylinder

Look for the proportioning valve hiding on the frame cross member under the radiator.
 

Turbo4whl

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This picture labels the ports for you.

This picture shoes the rubber cap over bleeding by-pass. If it has a nail head looking pin, then you need to pull it out to bleed. Later models with a straight pin need to be pushed in.

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75gmck25

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Unless someone has made some significant mods to the truck brakes, there is always a proportioning valve up under the radiator support on the driver’s side. There should also be a wire attached to it for the brake warning light in the instrument cluster.
 

greyghost

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Hello! I recently got this 1976 Chevy Scottsdale and the brakes were really spongy.
I replaced the brake booster and master cylinder and then bled the brakes but when I was done the brakes were still spongy.
The vacuum hose going to the booster has good suction so I don't think that's the issue.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Most of problems got mentioned, but one. Possibility you have collapsed brake lines. meaning old n brittle but not leaking , YET. if any are showing signs of old age, and you didn't replace them also, after one more try at bleeding, starting with bench bleed, going slowly n positive lines stay in reservoir forcing air bubbles out, moving to furthest away, typically right rear, then left rear,front right, front left, proportioning valve lines, finally master cyl. must keep eye on reservoir not let it get to low, or must start all over, so slowly, peddle must stay down with pressure each stroke, if not, air is entering system somewhere, if you hold peddle hard enough and rubber brake lines are old good chance weak one will blow and give itself up, or watch it expand n contract like a balloon, giving away spongyness, also check wheel cylinders for dampness as this is give away for air bubbles getting sucked back into line. I've always use dbl line bottle on vacuum pump to bleed system. one for fluid other for vacuum pressure so fluid wont get into vac pump, only requires one person thus eliminating pedal movement b4 line is sealed. I'm sure theres many tubers who have videos on procedures . i'd ck lines for age, all of rubber lines, then wheel cylinders n calipers, spray brakekleen to dry up wetness, and just let it sit for day, dampness will showup if there is a minuscule leak, all it takes is tiniest of pin hole , air compresses, brake fluid does not, weak rubber lines expand under hard pressure , good lines do not, flex yes. expand no. good luck and pass on tidbit info if it solves your issue
 

Fjordlander

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I found the proportioning valve and the pin in as Turbo4whl said. I'm going to bleed the brakes again this weekend and see how it goes
 

Fjordlander

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After meticulously bleeding the brakes again it finally feels like the new booster is kicking in. I still think the brakes are nit as good as they should be so I'm checking for leaks on the vacuum hose
 

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