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My old man's 84 c10

Discussion in 'Member Photos' started by Swims350, Jul 30, 2010.

  1. Swims350

    Swims350 Full Access Member

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    now she's in rough shape again...

    I yanked the old fiberglass patch overs off I did last and the replacement upper arch I did like 10 years ago.

    IMG_20191116_164857.jpg IMG_20191116_164907.jpg IMG_20191116_164914.jpg IMG_20191116_164920.jpg
     
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  2. Swims350

    Swims350 Full Access Member

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    dad wants to get rid of it just pull wheels/tires which are dry rotted and flaking on the crhome bad in some spots, engine and trans, engine needs some gaskets and cleaned up but runs alright carb idle circuit keeps getting pluged up. I could use parts for my 86, but then again I hate to just get rid of it. Bed floor is junk well some parts those cross braces on it are terrible.

    Passengerside bedside is not as bad but has a patch panel, bubbling and needs removed and redone like the driver's. Both inner rockers are gone inner cab corners, outers are showing rot and holes. One inner fender on the front is getting bad. The radiator support on the driver's side bottom near the radiator is shwoing holes now too. Hood has a huge spot where the crap primer peeled off the old paint. Tailgate bottom has rot. Fuel sending unit the gauge won't work because of the ground and the vent is plugged up somehow has been for years. Trans leaks has forever, rearend gears suck needs changed it's got 2.73's

    I'm honestly torn between letting his scrap it and keep/use parts for mine and maybe the wheels on the TA as they are unilug.

    Or

    me fixing it myself wih my own money, maybe it'd be mine then maybe he'll let me have it anyways, maybe one of my kids want it as a project for me and them to work on, but doing so my other stuff would be put on hold.

    I can't tear down 3 and have em in pieces, and if I do his it's gonna be torn down and taking up the rest of the garage next to the TA


    oh and both bedsides have a good rot hole inside near the fuel neck bummp up in the floor. Both at this point need gone and a new floor, or have to buy both outer wheel housing parts to repair inside and both full arch panels. Plus those inside patches and who knows what else.
     
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  3. bucket

    bucket Super Moderator Staff Member

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    How's the frame on it these days?
     
  4. Swims350

    Swims350 Full Access Member

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    I have to get under it and check it over, it's always been good and seems to still be.
     
  5. Swims350

    Swims350 Full Access Member

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    so this happened oday and my 86 is pissed the windows started acting weird again, had to shove in on the switch and push hard and doing the driver's made the pass. go down weird piece of shit power windows.


    IMG_20191117_141708.jpg IMG_20191117_141729.jpg IMG_20191117_163326.jpg IMG_20191117_141717.jpg IMG_20191117_141801.jpg
     
  6. Swims350

    Swims350 Full Access Member

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    and yes it's all the same rot from about 5 or 6 years back? a good reason why you don't just fill over it, it can and it will come back.

    Yes I knew that and so did my old man but he hollered I aint got the money and I gotta have it. Which he did it was his daily from time to time but now he's gonna do it right or junk it. Or I should say I'm gonna try to do it right as best I can, replace all I can and use good primer etc. Like epoxy, por15 chassis saver paints etc.

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    Last edited: Nov 18, 2019
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  7. Swims350

    Swims350 Full Access Member

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    I removed those old patches, and then I removed tailgate, lights, roll pan and tried to remove hinges and latches etc. one hige bolt nut is now loose and spinning.

    No to forget the stupid thing keeps wanting to run terrible. everytime I clean th eidle mixture screws circuit it runs good for a bit then does the same. I plan to remove tank, drain, inspect, clean, new rubber lines, fuel filter, clean all the rest, clean carb and go from there.

    IMG_20191117_163417.jpg IMG_20191117_163429.jpg IMG_20191117_143206.jpg
     
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  8. Swims350

    Swims350 Full Access Member

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    LOL go back in this thread til last time I did bodywork and the damn garage aint changed a bit lol, except for TA parts. Oh wait I got a good door now too.
     
  9. Swims350

    Swims350 Full Access Member

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    one side off thinking of going out and doing the other.

    IMG_20191118_155216.jpg IMG_20191118_155233.jpg IMG_20191118_155237.jpg IMG_20191118_155242.jpg IMG_20191118_155251.jpg
     
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  10. bucket

    bucket Super Moderator Staff Member

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    What's the current plan for the bed floor and crossmember situation?
     
  11. Swims350

    Swims350 Full Access Member

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    your guess is as good as mine on that one buddy. I'm working towards getting everything off it, remove it, flip it over, and then ponder the sitchiation a bit lol. I know for sure this time those small ones in the middle of the bed they are shot half of them is gone mainlly from the outside. I also know the larger ones that were bad before are of course, you guessed it, worse. I may see about getting some sheet metal, bending it and making them, and patch up only the ends. I also thought of trying to find some for another truck and trying them. I even thought of getting stepside ones and cutting them up but they say they are only 2 inches tall and fleetsides are 3. I also considered before getting some thin wall like 1x3 or 2x3 tubing but no one around here has it, maybe summit though they had some. I've even considered just throwing down some angle iron to weld across to brace it up.

    Of course there's always the wood idea I had awhile back we discussed. I'd love to do that. All wood bed floor and supports, but trying to fasten those together and be secure from now on, plus attaching to the bedsides etc.

    I know how to fix the rear one, buy it LOL. I'm honestly worried about the bedsides, they've got bad spots on the bottom where they meet the floor around the filler neck, and some of the spots for the caged nuts are torn out.

    The bed floor I know has some holes in it now but from what I've seen kind of contained to one area so maybe just a patch on that?

    I called around found out I can get the repair panels and fenders etc cheaper local then online. I'm trying to talk him into swapping to round headlight but he won't so far. I want to swap mine, and thought if I do I'll use my front end to fix his. He needs both fenders and both inners as well. He also has some rot in the radiator support now. Bad thing is doing that I'd have to have everything to switch mine before starting so it'd hold his up longer. I may check with the local body shop supply guy he loves squarebodys and keeps alot of parts and parts trucks etc.

    I'm thinking of ring to get those inner wheel houses or outer, whichever the ones that weld onto the bedside, and then buy the complete arch and fix that, hit inside with chassis saver or something, rest in good epoxy primer befoe doing body work paint etc. I'd have to stil lpatch those pieces in the front around the neck and I may need to look into a tailgate post to repair the bottoms of both they are trashed.

    Needs a tailgate too.

    IMG_20191118_174851.jpg IMG_20191118_174858.jpg IMG_20191118_174905.jpg IMG_20191118_174911.jpg IMG_20191118_174919.jpg
     
  12. Swims350

    Swims350 Full Access Member

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    yesterday and today's work

    IMG_20191120_172403.jpg IMG_20191120_172408.jpg IMG_20191120_172417.jpg IMG_20191120_172421.jpg

    IMG_20191120_172433.jpg
     
  13. Swims350

    Swims350 Full Access Member

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    as before them supports are shot even more so now shoot them 2 middle ones fell off or came off easily I should say. The ends of the other are shot and some go all the way in past the frame. The rearmost is junk and has been that's why it has pieces of treated 4x4 and 2x4 to add a lil support back to it.

    I had to grind like 5 of them wheel house to bed floor bolts off due to rotted off heads, gonna have to drill them out and use nuts once it goes together again.

    The frame has some bad scale on the driver's side now but it's solid I beat the shit out of it and never broke through it.

    I'm going to remove the pass. leaf that I didn't do before, with th eone I got from @bucket years back and use the 4.10 geared rear I got from him on it as well once I swap it to 5 lug. He complained it rode rough so I think I'll remove the overload and the bottom leaf to soften it a bit as they were suburban springs?

    the last pic you can see why they stopped selling laquer type primer it will come back to bite you and it did. It's flaking off. Now I'm trying to think of how much of the truck I did with it. I may have to go back and strip it all down.

    IMG_20191120_172438.jpg IMG_20191120_172446.jpg IMG_20191120_172452.jpg IMG_20191120_172507.jpg IMG_20191120_172543.jpg
     
  14. bucket

    bucket Super Moderator Staff Member

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    That frame is real nice compared to my C10.
     
  15. Swims350

    Swims350 Full Access Member

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    I'm gonna try and strip stuff off the frame in back as much as possible and wire wheel it down as good as I can and use some chassis saver or por15 on it all. We used zero rust or something on it when it first went white but we didn't wire wheel just pressure wash and it was mostly the outside of the frame, that's flaking off now.

    I'd also like to flip kit the rear since it's gonna be apart but the expensive part is the front. I could attempt to heat coils but since I only have a propane torch not so easy plus the harsh ride. I could also pull and cut, or just got cheap and maybe buy 3 inch drop coils only? and hope that it's close to level with that. I know drop spindles are like 200 on ebay cheapest I found.

    I don't know how well that'll work out but we'll see. I'd love to buy him a set of 15x10 cragar ss knock offs for the back and use the cragars center caps on them knock offs and get some 295 50's on them.
     

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