Method 701 milled aluminium rims

ballencd

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I did have to put Hummer brakes on it to get them to fit.
 

Frankenchevy

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I did have to put Hummer brakes on it to get them to fit.
They wouldn’t clear your factory front caliper, or was it an issue with the drum?
 

ballencd

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5.7/5.7/LDT 465-1c
The tie rod end hit the inside of the wheel. Of course the dealer said they fit even thought they did not. I was also in the process of changing the brakes and could tell that that would fix it so I dropped it with the wheel dealer. When putting Hummer brakes on the axle the rotor was removed and the hummer rotor was put on the outside of the hub instead of the inside as is factory. The ball joint misses the wheel by about 3/8" now. Problem solved!
 

bucket

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The tie rod end hit the inside of the wheel. Of course the dealer said they fit even thought they did not. I was also in the process of changing the brakes and could tell that that would fix it so I dropped it with the wheel dealer. When putting Hummer brakes on the axle the rotor was removed and the hummer rotor was put on the outside of the hub instead of the inside as is factory. The ball joint misses the wheel by about 3/8" now. Problem solved!

Where did your bracket kit come from? Last I read up on it, the only company that made a kit for that particular swap, discontinued the brackets. Iirc, the front wheel studs get swapped out for 22mm studs, correct?
 

Grit dog

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I like the black spoke on a square.
Looks good!
I may have to rescind my previous comment...lol.
I'm all for black wheels, depending on the vehicle. On your truck, I think they compliment the beige well. Kind of a "military" truck look?
 

Frankenchevy

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The tie rod end hit the inside of the wheel. Of course the dealer said they fit even thought they did not. I was also in the process of changing the brakes and could tell that that would fix it so I dropped it with the wheel dealer. When putting Hummer brakes on the axle the rotor was removed and the hummer rotor was put on the outside of the hub instead of the inside as is factory. The ball joint misses the wheel by about 3/8" now. Problem solved!
I tried to zoom in to see…what size rim is that? I have them in 18”. I was curious how they’d look on my square. Now I’m not sure they’ll clear everything on my D60 front.
 

Ron Sebastian

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I tried to zoom in to see…what size rim is that? I have them in 18”. I was curious how they’d look on my square. Now I’m not sure they’ll clear everything on my D60 front.
I just added 1" spacers. The tires don't stick out obnoxiously and not much at all in the rear. 4" backspace clears the tierod, 4.5" which mine are hit.
 

Frankenchevy

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I just added 1" spacers. The tires don't stick out obnoxiously and not much at all in the rear. 4" backspace clears the tierod, 4.5" which mine are hit.
What diameter wheel?
 

ballencd

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V10 Suburban/V1500 Suburban/M35 bobbed w/dump
Engine Size
5.7/5.7/LDT 465-1c
I have three kids and get lost in their world if something is not broken. Here's more info on the wheels and brakes even if it is late.

The wheels I put on were Method 17x8.5 MR701 +0 offset with 6x5.5 lug spacing. These will not fit a stock suburban without wheel spacing out about 1/2" or more.

I was changing from factory brakes to Hummer brake setup where I had to move the brake rotor from behind the hub to the front of the hub. This movement allowed the wheel to fit with about 3/8" clearance from the inside edge of the rim to the tie rod joint.

I did have to install new, different lug nuts and drill the rotors to fit the new lug nuts
The studs were longer too but I do not remember how long anymore. 14MM I chose 14MM because I have read that there is a chevy van disc brake rear end that is set up with 14MM lugs already and I hope to go that route one day, if I can find one.

The caliper mounting brackets came from Wilson Mechanical Design for about $180 delivered.

I bought the brake parts form Rock Auto for total of $550 delivered which included calipers, rotors, pads, guide pins.

I did have to have the hubs machined to fit the rotors at a local shop which if I remember correctly was about $250.....quite a bit higher than expected and I have been told that it could be done on a brake machine easily in 10-15 minutes at any auto parts store...?

I find that the brakes are much better than factory even though I have not messed with the rear all otehr then an inspection when I bought it. I suspect it would be even better with a freshen up of the rear and my planned hydro upgrade.
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