Manual Hub Identification

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LateOnTheBrakes

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Can anyone tell me what brand these are? They are on a Dana 44 front axle. I need to buy the service kit with the O-ring, fasteners, spring clips, etc.

Also, my truck is a frankenstein. I realize that. But why would the truck have to select 4-Hi or 4-Lo from inside the truck and then me have to go outside to lock the hubs? Were manual locking hubs for vehicles with the full-time 4WD transfer cases like the NP203?

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Goldie Driver

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Looks like the OE Spicers like the ones on Goldie, a part time 1980 1/2 ton 4wd Suburban.

The yellow knob is what I am focusing on.

No factory full time rigs had locking hubs - not needed. If they have them it was an aftermarket installation.

With part time, the hubs can be locked in before needed and then the vehicle shifted to 4WD as required, from inside.
 

LateOnTheBrakes

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Thanks. Not sure if they are supposed to be yellow or were red once upon a time.
 

LateOnTheBrakes

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Does anyone know the part number for a rebuild kit on the locking hubs? I'm looking for the snap rings, gaskets, etc.
 

Poppy 87

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Does anyone know the part number for a rebuild kit on the locking hubs? I'm looking for the snap rings, gaskets, etc.
Back in the 80's we used to put the manual lock hubs on these trucks. I would just do a search using your vehicle. Seems like Warn used to make them. Complete kits were not too $$$$.
 

LateOnTheBrakes

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My truck is an 86 and should have a Dana 60. Not the 44. In 86 a half ton would have had a 10-bolt. I'm kinda flying blind other than looking for a 78ish K10.
 

bucket

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You need the stuff for Spicer hubs, they are different than Warn. I don't remember if parts are available anymore. @nvrenuf may know?
 

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Go here https://torqueking.com/ and do some research. you can rebuild them, but it will be just as expensive as getting the new hub's. I have some parts they are off a 73 k10. Same hub for awhile on Dana 44's
 

hoagster

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Warn Premium Manual Hubs 20990
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$142.99 @ summit racing

looking at the size of the tires your running I would go with these. But figure out exactly which axle your running first!
 

LateOnTheBrakes

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I researched as much as I could but dead ended with the Spicer literature. I need to reexamine my parts to see if I have the face or sliding tooth design.

I know at a minimum I need one #6 and one #1. Right now I am just trying to put these hubs back together after replacing a few bad wheel studs. I will be getting the Dana 60 and 14-bolt eventually but want to be able to drive it in the mean time.

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Goldie Driver

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I researched as much as I could but dead ended with the Spicer literature. I need to reexamine my parts to see if I have the face or sliding tooth design.

I know at a minimum I need one #6 and one #1. Right now I am just trying to put these hubs back together after replacing a few bad wheel studs. I will be getting the Dana 60 and 14-bolt eventually but want to be able to drive it in the mean time.

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I hope you have the face type as the sliding tooth needs the assistance of Doc Ock to reassemble...

Maybe the 3rd time is easier- not real enthused about the idea, though.
 

LateOnTheBrakes

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Not sure. According to the Dana/Spicer literature I should have the PHL-52.

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hoagster

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Go to torque king they have a selection of parts. Including #1 and 6.

Anyway I have both of my old sets well used like exactly like your's Zoom in to the hub, yellow almost white cap now but but the inside is yellow.

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AuroraGirl

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Over time they yellow from UV oxidation of plastic, but all mine are solid yet. Just ugly. Spicer if you can keep it working is the good option IMO, i researched a lot. not that yukon, warn, etc arent good, just, they camne with the trucks and are often times still very much going strong(Mine are!) and thats a testament to something.

@LateOnTheBrakes ive run into this problem last fall. I have an incomplete part set for an entire hub, i had to salvage a few screws and a retainer. i have them in a bucket.

mine only needed parts because of physical damage i accidently caused. so not a failure
 

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