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Lares vs Cardone steering box reman not Saginaw?

Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering & Brakes' started by 1979 K10, Jun 8, 2021.

  1. 1979 K10

    1979 K10 Junior Member

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    1979 k10 My 20 year old cardone steering box is getting sloppy. I adjusted the adjustment screw on top but that really just changed the “feel” and it still felt sloppy. I’ve checked center link and drag link, all solid but I’ll probably replace while in there. Rubber steering coupler is oily but seems ok. I ordered a new one since the replacement steering box has a different shaft and splines.

    See pics for the differences in the reman lares steering gear vs cardone Saginaw
    Apparently GM had other manufactures than Saginaw.

    What steering box is better? Does it matter?

    I’m a bit concerned about the rubber seal where the steering shaft connects on the replacement box. I can easily remove seal by hand where the Saginaw box had a different design.

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    Last edited: Jun 8, 2021
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  2. rpcraft

    rpcraft Full Access Member

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    Go with Lares...
     
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  3. Frankinmetz

    Frankinmetz Junior Member

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    Lares seems like better quality from these pics IMO

    Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
     
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  4. shiftpro

    shiftpro Full Access Member

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    In Canada Cardone is china junk.
     
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  5. rpcraft

    rpcraft Full Access Member

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    It is here in the states as well
     
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  6. 1979 K10

    1979 K10 Junior Member

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    Replaced steering box, coupler, center link, and drag link. When just replacing steering box I noticed there is a little less play vs the old cardone reman. Still some dead zone in the center but apparently that’s how these were new.

    Old Center link was tight but boots tore so replaced that with new moog ends. Drag link had a small amount of play on the end that’s part of the long rod. I’d also hit a huge rock off-road and put a slight bend in the old one. I measured old drag link and adjusted the new to the same. Will have to do a driveway toe check. Steering is now stiff with all the new joints. I tightened everything very tight, what’s the torque spec on center link and drag link? I assume the stiffness will go away after some driving.

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  7. rpcraft

    rpcraft Full Access Member

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    The dead zone in the middle is more likely just because of the overall flex in the frame overall. Hopefully you checked and there were no cracks. ORD makes a piece that mounts to the frame and the front crossmember that is a stiffener but not sure how much it really lends to stiffness compared to just swapping to a crossover setup but I think a crossover requires about 4 inches of lift to be more effective and actually use it. I just got my Bilsteins this weekend so looking forward to finishing installing my lift and getting them mounted. I think though I am going to reinforce the top rear shock mounts though before I install them.
     
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  8. Raider L

    Raider L Full Access Member

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    @1979 K10,

    If I were you I'd stay with the same kind of shafts that were on the old sector because the old one had the splines on the ends where the links connect. If your links have splines and the new sector doesn't it's not going to hold the links at all. You'll never get then tight enough. Look on Ebay for other makes of sector and not the Auto zone type. I understand about cost. Believe me. Or rebuild yours yourself. It's not that hard to do. No special tools required I don't think, just a good heavy vise.
     
  9. rpcraft

    rpcraft Full Access Member

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    Rebuilding if you have leaks is a good option to be fair. O'reillys has a kit for about 30 bucks. I literally just bought one about 3 weeks ago. Eventually I am going to move over to crossover steering on my Jimmy and am just going to pick up a clean looking 2wd unit for that and going to clean, coat, and rebuilt it. Might go ahead and pick up a second and rebuild the 4wd unit and put it for sale to recoupe some kind of coin, lol.


    PPS 28401229 was the oreilly part # and it was 30.99!
     
  10. 1979 K10

    1979 K10 Junior Member

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    The rag joint / coupler is the difference.

    Cardone steering Box used the dorman coupler that has more splines and the coupler has a mesh metal webbing layered in the rubber.

    Lares coupler is all rubber and less splines.

    The steering shaft bolts to either coupler and doesn’t contact the splines on either.

    I’ll probably stick with the Lares since it’s installed and did take up some slack in the steering (less dead zone and tighter feel)

    Now to see how much return shipping is through rockauto to get core credit back.
     
  11. rpcraft

    rpcraft Full Access Member

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    On my K5 I used the jeep cherokee XJ steering shaft so it took out all the coupler stuff. Not sure you can do that with a 2wd unit though but its far better overall in my opinion.
     

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