1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

K10/K1500 SM465 clutch job.

Discussion in 'Manual Transmission & Clutch' started by Irishman999, Jan 26, 2012.

  1. Irishman999

    Irishman999 Full Access Member

    Age:
    33
    Posts:
    7,003
    Likes Received:
    104
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2010
    Location:
    Safford Arizona
    First Name:
    Jason
    Truck Year:
    1985
    Truck Model:
    K-1500 High Sierra
    Engine Size:
    305
    There will be a shitload of pictures so I am posting progress as I go instead of all at once after I am done. Also an opportunity to add anything you feel is important.

    First Step:

    Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
    IMG_5431.jpg

    Chock the rear wheels and find a way to get the truck up in the air so the transmission will clear when it comes out. Its also helpful while you are rolling around in the greasy mess, you might smack your head on less shit. My best method is to spend 3 bucks on cinder blocks under the tires for plenty of room. Make sure you chock the rear tires so the thing wont roll away.

    IMG_5440.jpg

    This is an NP-208 transfer case, your pickup might have a different transfer case. You can hopefully see that big ass plug at the bottom, pull the plug and drain the fluid. Same thing with the transmission, just remove the plug at the bottom in the picture into a catch pan. You will be ahead of the game by getting a 5 gallon bucket to store waste oil.

    Transfer case:
    IMG_5434.jpg
    Transmission:
    IMG_5437.jpg
     
    Chris H likes this.
  2. Irishman999

    Irishman999 Full Access Member

    Age:
    33
    Posts:
    7,003
    Likes Received:
    104
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2010
    Location:
    Safford Arizona
    First Name:
    Jason
    Truck Year:
    1985
    Truck Model:
    K-1500 High Sierra
    Engine Size:
    305
    Next thing to come out is the front and rear drive-lines. I started with the rear, since I have the NP208 All I have to do is unbolt the rear U-joint straps with a 7/16's wrench and slide the drive-line out. Even after the transfer case is empty be ready with a drain pan because more fluid will come out! If you have a different transfer case you will end up taking more u joint straps loose on the other end. Notice the tape around the Ujoint, this keeps the caps from slipping off and losing needle bearings everywhere.

    IMG_5436.jpg
    IMG_5433.jpg

    My front drive-line has straps on the front where its attached to the front differential and a flange that bolts to the transfer case with 9/16's head bolts. To get these loose I have to lock the transfer case in 4 wheel drive, loosen the bolts and put the transfer case back in two wheel drive to spin the shaft around to get to the rest of the bolts.
    IMG_5439.jpg
    IMG_5438.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2012
    Chris H likes this.
  3. crazy4offroad

    crazy4offroad Service Bullshit Filter Soon

    Age:
    47
    Posts:
    8,411
    Likes Received:
    754
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2010
    Location:
    West BY-GOD Virginia
    First Name:
    Curt
    Truck Year:
    1977
    Truck Model:
    One-Ton K-10
    Engine Size:
    350/TH350/NP205
    Gotta say I'm not crazy about the blocks. I would leave it on the ground and if needed jack it up then to get the trans out from under it. Also are you going to replace the output seals on the t-case? Did you get a gasket for between the trans/t-case? Are you replacing the pilot bushing too? If needed I would consider doing the rear main oil seal on the engine as well. Going good so far! :waytogo:
     
  4. Irishman999

    Irishman999 Full Access Member

    Age:
    33
    Posts:
    7,003
    Likes Received:
    104
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2010
    Location:
    Safford Arizona
    First Name:
    Jason
    Truck Year:
    1985
    Truck Model:
    K-1500 High Sierra
    Engine Size:
    305
    Curt, you dont need blocks because you have big ass tires! The blocks are the first priority, its so much easier and less pain full rolling around under this truck with that extra 6 inches of lift or so. I highly recommend the blocks, or ramps.....

    I consider doing a rear main seal part of a clutch job so I have the kit waiting in a box in the parts stockpile, it will be included in this project. The gasket between the transmission and transfer case is included in my transmission gasket set along with all new seals for the transfer case, all of that will be included in this.
     
  5. crazy4offroad

    crazy4offroad Service Bullshit Filter Soon

    Age:
    47
    Posts:
    8,411
    Likes Received:
    754
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2010
    Location:
    West BY-GOD Virginia
    First Name:
    Curt
    Truck Year:
    1977
    Truck Model:
    One-Ton K-10
    Engine Size:
    350/TH350/NP205
    Good deal then, sounds like you got er whooped already!
     
  6. 78shortandwide

    78shortandwide Full Access Member

    Posts:
    453
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2011
    Location:
    Colorado
    First Name:
    Tom
    Truck Year:
    1978
    Truck Model:
    K10 short box
    Engine Size:
    350/sm465/np205/d44/gm12/3.73
    I remember doing my clutch, the trans and transfer case are heavy if you don't separate them
     
  7. 89Suburban

    89Suburban Full Access Member

    Age:
    46
    Posts:
    22,691
    Likes Received:
    315
    Joined:
    Dec 7, 2010
    Location:
    Southeast PA
    First Name:
    Paw Paw
    Truck Year:
    2007
    Truck Model:
    Chevrolet Tahoe LT
    Engine Size:
    5.3, 4WD
    Awesome job and pics man!! This will be a very useful write up!! :High 5:

    I am especially looking forward to the seal replacements on the transfer case and rear main.
     
  8. Irishman999

    Irishman999 Full Access Member

    Age:
    33
    Posts:
    7,003
    Likes Received:
    104
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2010
    Location:
    Safford Arizona
    First Name:
    Jason
    Truck Year:
    1985
    Truck Model:
    K-1500 High Sierra
    Engine Size:
    305
    Thanks dude! Everything is going great and I can get good pictures thanks to the camera you found on craigslist.
     
  9. Irishman999

    Irishman999 Full Access Member

    Age:
    33
    Posts:
    7,003
    Likes Received:
    104
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2010
    Location:
    Safford Arizona
    First Name:
    Jason
    Truck Year:
    1985
    Truck Model:
    K-1500 High Sierra
    Engine Size:
    305
    More about the front driveline: even with the rear driveline out you can lock it into 4 wheel with the truck in gear and everything will hold so you can break everything loose on the drive-shaft. 7/16 wrench for the front and 5/8's for the rear, I used a ratchet wrench to speed up the process, meanwhile my wife was sitting on the bench seat pushing the clutch when I needed to spin the driveshaft to get to bolts.

    SA400007.jpg
     
  10. Irishman999

    Irishman999 Full Access Member

    Age:
    33
    Posts:
    7,003
    Likes Received:
    104
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2010
    Location:
    Safford Arizona
    First Name:
    Jason
    Truck Year:
    1985
    Truck Model:
    K-1500 High Sierra
    Engine Size:
    305
    Next step I did was take loose the exhaust manifold collectors on each side. This will be a pain in the ass, get a can of PB blaster and soak everything before you take it loose. Plan on breaking the studs, I did it twice the first time I did this but it is fixable. The point where I am bolting this back on later I will explain the easiest way to fix these.

    SA400006.jpg
     
  11. Irishman999

    Irishman999 Full Access Member

    Age:
    33
    Posts:
    7,003
    Likes Received:
    104
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2010
    Location:
    Safford Arizona
    First Name:
    Jason
    Truck Year:
    1985
    Truck Model:
    K-1500 High Sierra
    Engine Size:
    305
    Next up is pulling out the shifter. First is removing screws that hold the shifter boot to the floor, just Phillips screws.
    SA400010.jpg

    Next you get a pair of channel lock pliers, grab the top of the stamped metal cup but dont squeeze it. Push down and turn left and the cup pops out. Once the metal cup retaining ring is loose the whole shifter lifts out.
    SA400012.jpg
     
    Catbox likes this.
  12. Irishman999

    Irishman999 Full Access Member

    Age:
    33
    Posts:
    7,003
    Likes Received:
    104
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2010
    Location:
    Safford Arizona
    First Name:
    Jason
    Truck Year:
    1985
    Truck Model:
    K-1500 High Sierra
    Engine Size:
    305
    I cut the tailpipes off my exhaust last time I did this because they were really fucked up and I could not split the exhaust system in half. In my case I unbolted the pipes from the manifold and one exhaust clamp on the rear and everything was hanging on the cross member.

    put a floor jack under the lowest point of the transfer case and apply a little bit of pressure. Once its suspended loosen the nuts from the transfer case mount to the cross member and loosen the the outside bolts that hold the cross member to the frame.

    SA400013.jpg

    SA400015.jpg

    Stay clear of everything when you remove the last bolt and everything will gracefully come crashing down so you can pull everything out of the way.

    SA400016.jpg
     
  13. Irishman999

    Irishman999 Full Access Member

    Age:
    33
    Posts:
    7,003
    Likes Received:
    104
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2010
    Location:
    Safford Arizona
    First Name:
    Jason
    Truck Year:
    1985
    Truck Model:
    K-1500 High Sierra
    Engine Size:
    305
    Here is where shit slows down and you have to really watch out for injuring yourself or breaking your distributor. Number one concern here is not crushing any part of your body, if you screw up just let it drop. I say all this because I used a cheap transmission adapter from Harbor freight, you CAN use it but there is better things to use like an actual transmission jack. It does require you have floor jacks.

    First off, take off the distributor cap off the engine and move it a little forward so it does not get crushed. to get enough angle to get the transmission to clear the floor plan it will crush the distributor cap.

    SA400021.jpg

    If you have not already remove the transfer case shifter linkage and the spedometer cable.

    SA400020.jpg
    SA400019.jpg

    Next get a jack stand and place it under the tail shaft to hold the whole assembly up so you can pull the jack out and leave everything suspended.

    SA400034.jpg
     
  14. Irishman999

    Irishman999 Full Access Member

    Age:
    33
    Posts:
    7,003
    Likes Received:
    104
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2010
    Location:
    Safford Arizona
    First Name:
    Jason
    Truck Year:
    1985
    Truck Model:
    K-1500 High Sierra
    Engine Size:
    305
    Next step is to get your trannie jack set up! Most fun part of the job! Notice I remove half of the handle so it works better while under the truck.

    This is my floor jack set up for removing transmissios:
    SA400023.jpg
    SA400026.jpg

    Positioning this thing is a challenge, keep 2 of ever wrench under the truck with you to adjust everything in place. Keep the jack cockeyed in relation to the transmission so the fore and aft adjuster knob can be reached. Jack the transmission back up to its original height and adjust all the stuff to keep it in place including the chain.
    SA400027.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2012
  15. Irishman999

    Irishman999 Full Access Member

    Age:
    33
    Posts:
    7,003
    Likes Received:
    104
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2010
    Location:
    Safford Arizona
    First Name:
    Jason
    Truck Year:
    1985
    Truck Model:
    K-1500 High Sierra
    Engine Size:
    305
    I pull everything bolted together. Once the jack is secured to the transmission let it down until the top of the transmission clears the floor pan of the truck and put a jack under the engine between the bell housing and oil pan so its secure. Apply a little bit of pressure with a wood block to hold the engine up.

    SA400031.jpg

    Once everything is supported simply unbolt the 4 bolts that go into the bellhousing from the transmission. Pry the transmission out with a pry bar paying close attention to adjusting either jack to keep everying in a perfect straight line. Pretty soon the transmission will clear and be out.
     

Share This Page