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Issues with header install.

Discussion in 'Engine & Performance' started by Dutch Rutter, Apr 16, 2019.

  1. Dutch Rutter

    Dutch Rutter Full Access Member

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    Hello everyone,

    I got my long tube headers finally installed. Wish I could say it went flawlessly but it did not. I did have a shop do the work for me.

    First issue:
    The shop found out that one of the POs broke a manifold bold off about a 1/8 of an inch deep inside the driver's side head. Then they attempted to drill it out. Which ended up being waaay off center and pretty much between the threads and the bolt. The shop guy tried welding a bead from the bolt to a washer at the head surface then welding a nut to that with s bead in the center and he attempted to take it out. This just resulted in a little more of the bolt breaking but never the full thing.

    I had him just put the headers on without that bolt. Currently driving it with a slight exhaust leak. And hope that someine hear has some magic which could help me get it out.

    Second issue:
    Shop made me a bracket to hold the PS pump to the side if the head. Problem is that it should allow a tightening movement, but it does not. See pictures. Is there an aftermarket bracket I can buy to adapt the pump bracket to the header flange?

    Thanks in advanced for any help with this craziness.

    20190415_175043.jpg

    20190415_181443.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2019
  2. bucket

    bucket Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Normally, you just cut the rear leg off the stock bracket. But since you no longer have the AC compressor, you can just use the bracket from a non-AC truck.
     
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  3. Dutch Rutter

    Dutch Rutter Full Access Member

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    Thanks for the info bucket! I have removed the A.C. compressor for the time being. With hopeful plans to someday change it over from r12 But it will be a long while to come. I do still have the original bracket would it be better to modify and use that over the other style if i want to eventually add that compressor back?

    Also I'll be posting up some pictures of the broken and problem bolt when i have the time to take the header back off and work on getting that thing out.
     
  4. bucket

    bucket Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Yeah, if AC is going back on it, I'd just install the original bracket. With the rear leg hacked off, of course. You will still have to use a spacer on the front header bolt though.
     
  5. 1987 GMC Jimmy

    1987 GMC Jimmy Full Access Member

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    There’s a picture somewhere on here of where you cut it. I think you were the one that posted it.
     
  6. shiftpro

    shiftpro Full Access Member

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    What a shame the broken bolt wasn't dealt with properly from the beginning. A good old school welder is the best bet, forget the Easy-Out crap.
    6/10 1/8" rod... dabbed in and out on the broken stud. Build up a little stack until there is enough to grab with needle nose vise grip and by then they
    just fly out. You don't need a washer over the hole, that just makes the job more difficult...
    Anyway, sorry for the rant and I wish I could have been there to help before the mess was created. At this point, probably best to pull the head off
    and get it on the bench...
    Dorks fuck shit up...
     
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  7. bucket

    bucket Super Moderator Staff Member

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    I remember the picture, but don't remember where I posted it or where I have it saved. It was a terrible hack cut anyway, lol.
     
  8. Dutch Rutter

    Dutch Rutter Full Access Member

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    Yep, I'm right with you, really should not have been a big issue at all until it became a larger problem. Issue is that these are still the smog heads. So not too worth doing anything with them. and If or when I remove them I'll put something else on in their place. I do have my second and mildly built motor that I need to freshen up before it finds its way into the truck but I figure I can live with a slight leak and move that up the "To Do" list over the old suspension parts that need replaced unless I can get this thing to seal for the time being.

    I believe I saw that picture somewhere. pretty much just cut the rear leg off somewhat cleanly, add a spacer behind the first bolt which is probably already there from this "super" custom L bracket he made up for me. Taking it to my dad's place tonight where the welder and big tools live so either tonight or this weekend I'll be able to make some progress on it.

    Thanks all, I'll be sure to post back on this.
     
  9. Kim Burke

    Kim Burke Full Access Member

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    This crap is hard enough without a paid “pro” making repairs more difficult. Jerks.
     
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  10. Wumbo

    Wumbo Full Access Member

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    MIG welder does it even easier. I've done exhaust bolts, and even head bolts that were broken off below the block deck this way.
     
  11. shiftpro

    shiftpro Full Access Member

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    Of course it would, good point. Probably a lot easier. How about using a pulse mig! You could just hold it there and lift. Sorry makes skilled stick welders obsolete...
    That's me btw... was me..
    I is gittin reborn as a dime stacker...
     
  12. Dutch Rutter

    Dutch Rutter Full Access Member

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    Thanks for all the help!! I ended up taking the header off today, got a good look at that mess. Bolt was broken off about a 5/8s of an inch inside the head, whoever tried drilling it did indeed get it right next to the threads and now where near center. So the threads were non existent. Ended up drilling slightly oversized and put in a helicoil. So far everything is holding up great with no issues.

    As for the bracket, I did exactly what bucket suggested cut the rear leg off the OEM bracket, added some paint, used the spacers and mounted it all back up. Works and fits like a charm!
     
  13. Dutch Rutter

    Dutch Rutter Full Access Member

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    Coming together a little slow but it's going.

    20190420_193721.jpg
     
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