Ignition issue, no spark

[WarlVlachine]

I recently did an auto to manual swap. I got every thing back together yesterday and its not starting. Starter cranks fine and there is fuel getting to where it needs to be. The only things I messed with was the starter and steering column during the swap. I'm really not sure what I could have missed, there is just a handful of connectors on the steering column which is straight forward and the starter is obviously working. I appreciate any advice or inputs. Thank you.

 

[chengny]

I recently did an auto to manual swap. I got every thing back together yesterday and its not starting. Starter cranks fine and there is fuel getting to where it needs to be. The only things I messed with was the starter and steering column during the swap. I'm really not sure what I could have missed, there is just a handful of connectors on the steering column which is straight forward and the starter is obviously working. I appreciate any advice or inputs. Thank you.

If everything else is working normally, a good place to start is at the HEI distributor. With the ignition switch in the RUN position, verify 12 volts available to the BATT terminal on the pink lead.

If you find that power is available there, suspect a distributor issue. If there is no power to the BATT terminal on the pink lead, look at the ignition switch connections.

You didn't mention what was done to the steering column, so I can't offer much on what to inspect.

The pink lead to the distributor is a straight shot from the ignition switch - nothing in between. That section of the ignition switch is supplied with battery voltage on the BAT 2 terminal. In addition to the HEI, power is supplied (depending on the switch position) to the starter solenoid and some accessories. Since the solenoid is pulling in - and assuming the radio plays and wipers work - power is getting to the ignition switch.

As above I would first check for power and proper connection at the distributor B+ terminal.

 

[WarlVlachine]

If everything else is working normally, a good place to start is at the HEI distributor. With the ignition switch in the RUN position, verify 12 volts available to the BATT terminal on the pink lead.

If you find that power is available there, suspect a distributor issue. If there is no power to the BATT terminal on the pink lead, look at the ignition switch connections.

You didn't mention what was done to the steering column, so I can't offer much on what to inspect.

The pink lead to the distributor is a straight shot from the ignition switch - nothing in between. That section of the ignition switch is supplied with battery voltage on the BAT 2 terminal. In addition to the HEI, power is supplied (depending on the switch position) to the starter solenoid and some accessories. Since the solenoid is pulling in - and assuming the radio plays and wipers work - power is getting to the ignition switch.

As above I would first check for power and proper connection at the distributor B+ terminal.

I will check this out like you said. All that was done to the column was removal and reinstallation.

I was suspecting the NSS but that would prevent the starter from cycling, from what I’ve been told recently.

 

[Dmack]

I lost my hei coil last month. Worked fine , then ten minutes later, nothing. Put on a spare cap and fired right up. If you don't already have one, I would pick up an in-line spark tester. Easy way to confirm spark.

 

[Matt69olds]

Check for power on the pink wire (labeled BATT on the cap) to the distributor cap, it should have power with the key on. Check for power on the terminal labeled TACH, it should also have power with the key on. If not, the primary windings in the coil are open, coil needs to be replaced. If the light is on connected to the TACH terminal, crank the engine, the light should flicker. If not, you either have a bad ignition module, or defective pickup coil. Remove the distributor cap and rotor, closely inspect the wires on the pickup coil, the ones that plug into the ignition module. After the vacuum advance cycles a few million times, the cycling bends the little wires back/forth, eventually breaking them. No signal from the pickup coil=no spark.