I am looking to buy a k10. How to choose?

[Marc in Las Vegas]

Hi from Las Vegas. Looking for an old squarebody to rebuild with my 15 year old son. We want a 4x4. I am looking at a few now. What is preferred:

1. Manual or Automatic?
2. 4x4 w hubs or all time 4 wheel drive?
3. Assuming a relatively clean and stock truck what should I look for that may be a good or bad aspect?

 

[Charlie]

IMO, it is a personal preference. For me, I like automatics. A lot of people prefer manual. If I were to have a manual, I would only want a three on the tree just for the old school days I remember.

 

[Marc in Las Vegas]

IMO, it is a personal preference. For me, I like automatics. A lot of people prefer manual. If I were to have a manual, I would only want a three on the tree just for the old school days I remember.

Can I send you a craigslist listing and maybe you could tell me what I should look for?

 

[Marc in Las Vegas]

How can I tell if the engine and tranny are original and/or if they have been rebuilt?

 

[yevgenievich]

Rebuilt is harder to tell. There are some visual signs. Motor has last digits of Vin number stamped on the top pad front passenger side of the block

 

[82sbshortbed]

Don't know if rust will be a problem in Vegas but, common area's are rocker panels cab corners,floor of cab. You'll wanna get under cab to check the floor boards. Some people don't look there and end up with a mess when pulling back carpet. The other area's like bottom of doors and Ned and fenders are much easier to see.

 

[Charlie]

Are you looking for your first squarebody? Or do you have one now and want to get a project for you and your son?

If it is possible, try to find someone that has one and could help you with the search criteria. I wish I had someone to help when I got a 72 c10 in 2014. Kept it for a year and realized I had gotten in over my head then lucked upon the 74 I have now. Learned a lot along the way. You can't be sure the PO is actually telling you everything. Maybe an original owner that has had it since new or nearly new.

 

[Marc in Las Vegas]

Are you looking for your first squarebody? Or do you have one now and want to get a project for you and your son?

If it is possible, try to find someone that has one and could help you with the search criteria. I wish I had someone to help when I got a 72 c10 in 2014. Kept it for a year and realized I had gotten in over my head then lucked upon the 74 I have now. Learned a lot along the way. You can't be sure the PO is actually telling you everything. Maybe an original owner that has had it since new or nearly new.

Yes, its my first and I have been looking. Found the 79 in CA. Search criteria is exactly what I need help with. It is fairly clean, fairly original and fairly rust free.

 

[Marc in Las Vegas]

Are you looking for your first squarebody? Or do you have one now and want to get a project for you and your son?

If it is possible, try to find someone that has one and could help you with the search criteria. I wish I had someone to help when I got a 72 c10 in 2014. Kept it for a year and realized I had gotten in over my head then lucked upon the 74 I have now. Learned a lot along the way. You can't be sure the PO is actually telling you everything. Maybe an original owner that has had it since new or nearly new.

Check your profile.

 

[Customblue]

I'm a firm believer that driving a standard is a lost art. Most young people are lost when they see 3 pedals. If your son can drive a standard well already, either one. I would go part time 4 wheel drive personally

 

[75gmck25]

I got my '75 GMC K25 with 350/TH350/NP203 in 2002, and my oldest son started driving it in 2003 (age 16). The original engine held up for about 18 months, but then threw a rod and my younger son (age 15) helped me install a new GM crate engine. They both drove it through high school, and then I got it back. I'm still using it to haul fill dirt for the yard, lumber to build a deck, etc.

If you want to save a little money in restoration its best to look for a vehicle with a very common set of options. GM has been making some of these components for many years, so in most cases the parts are not that expensive or hard to find. For example:
- Automatic transmissions - TH350 is one of the most common automatics, its strong, and its cheap to rebuild. The 700R4 can be a good transmission, but some years were unreliable, so you have to be careful. The TH400 is the strongest auto, but you don't need that extra strength unless you really work the truck hard.
The standard transmissions in these trucks are good, but are relatively uncommon compared to automatics. I would never hesitate to buy a standard, but would not specifically go looking for one.
- 305/350/400 SBC - many trucks had 305's or 400's, but all the crate engines are 350 or 383 (stroked 350). You can even use a newer Vortec 350 by adding the right intake and flywheel, although they don't usually support a mechanical fuel pump.
- Transfer case - NP205 is the strongest, but not very common except in 1 ton trucks. NP203 full time case is also strong, but many believe the full time cuts into fuel mileage. Part-time converted NP203's may be unreliable if they were not maintained properly after the conversion. The NP208 is probably the most common part time case, and its strong enough to get the job done.


I would try to find an unmolested/original vehicle that does not have a lot of rust, and pay the right price based on the condition of the drivetrain. For example, if you got a rust free , complete body at a good price, adding/fixing a 350/TH350/NP208 drivetrain would be a relatively straightforward job, and it would not be terribly expensive. However, if you buy a rusted out wreck of a body you will start out with $3000-$4000 of body panels and body work before you even think about drivetrain. Most drivetrain work makes a good do-it-yourself project for you and your son, but auto body work usually means hiring someone who has the tools and a paint booth.


Bruce

 

[1973c10]

Welcome aboard

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

The first thing I would look for is that the wiring’s not all hacked up. The second thing to look for is that the wiring’s not all hacked up. And so on and so forth. A lot of people come on here to try and sort through the rats nest of wiring or poor repairs that previous owners did. I don’t know if I could take having to go through that. It’s bad enough that bugs can come up when everything’s unmolested.

Most of what you wanted to know has been covered. I wouldn’t run away from a truck that has a 305. A K10/V10 with a 305/700R4 power team is still a good truck. In fact, I’d prefer the 700 over a TH350 in a half tonner, at least when it’s an ‘87 or newer transmission or it’s been properly rebuilt, updated. The 700R4 had a rough start. I would say it’s pretty worthless for ‘82 and ‘83 and improved to decent from ‘84-‘86. If it was a bigger truck, I’d want a TH400 or 4L80E, but that’s not the case here. The 700R4 in my car is getting very close to 270,000 original miles and still getting me everywhere in one piece, which is great for a 1985 unit. I’d prefer a 350 or 400 SBC depending on the year you’re looking at. 1987s are fuel injected and a little different in terms of engine management compared to a carbed, HEI engine. If I wanted a round eye, I’d personally shoot for a 1977-80, and if I wanted a square eye, I’d look for an ‘85 or newer. 1977 saw the use of more GM standardized components, and the pre-‘77 trucks have less parts compatibility across the whole truck line. I like the late squares because they took a great truck and kept making it better until the end. It was all downhill shortly after that for this consumer. I wouldn’t be too interested in buying/fixing a vehicle made after 1995.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Check the frame rail at the steering box for cracks. Also check the rear shock mounts at the frame for cracks. The Fallguy made a lot of people think these trucks can take incredible jumps. As mentioned above I personally would look for a nearly original with as few mods as possible being done. That is unless it was a well-done mod like a 5.3/4L60e adapted to an NP205. The Blazer gas tank mod is not a bad mod either. Take note of everything, like collapsed cab mounts, broken engine mounts, busted shocks, worn out tires etc. You may not think they are much but they can add up quickly. Use them as leverage on the price. And keep in mind shortbed trucks these days are pulling a premium price.

 

[75gmck25]

Another suggestion is to take a look at this site so that you understand some of the yearly model differences. http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/

Some model differences/upgrades to look for:
'73 - 6 cylinder and manual transmision V8s used the NP205, automatic trucks used NP203
'74 - 307 engine discontinued. 307 is an old smog engine design, and the 305 or 350 are a better choice.
'75 - HEI ignition standard
'75 - Manual transmission trucks used the NP205
'77 - Power locks (early in year) and windows (late in year) offered
'80 - V8 4WD used the NP205
'81 - K10 and K20 4WD now had the NP208
'81 - Front sheet metal redesign. Not really much different at first glance, but many sheet metal parts will not cross over from earlier years.
'82 - TH700R4 overdrive transmission offered
'85 - V6 replaces the inline 6
'87 - TBI fuel injection
'87 - K series now designated as V series to avoid confusion with new body style coming in '88
'88-'91 - GM continued to use the square body parts for 1 ton dually trucks, Suburbans and Blazers. These are listed at V and R series, vs. the new body style that now uses the C and K designation.

Bruce