Horns

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scenic760

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I've read most of the threads on the horns but had a couple questions?!

So when I press the horn button-nothing. No click at the relay, nada

I pulled the relay and I have power at the orange wires (I have 3 contacts at the plug- 2 orange wires, 1 black, 1 green)

I tried to jumper the orange and green- nada.

So do I have 2 separate problems? The horn button doesn't work and the horns themselves are not working?

In working under there I noticed this wire hanging out in space, does this have anything to do with my issue?

I'm trying to fix one problem per day on this thing and I thought the horn would be an easy peasy one...not so!?

Thanks all!
 

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Snoots

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If that goes thru the firewall I'm guessing that's your horn.
Do you have a DMM or test light for testing?
 

scenic760

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If that goes thru the firewall I'm guessing that's your horn.
Do you have a DMM or test light for testing?

I used a multi meter to test for power...my understanding is that if the orange in the harness was hot then if you jumped it over to the green you should get music? I'm getting confused a bit now...and given it's only 3 contacts that might mean I'm in trouble now, haha!
 

Turbo4whl

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As you stated, the orange wires are hot all the time. The black wire completes the ground and the relay closes sending current to the green wire. The green goes to the horn/s. The black wire follows the turn/ hazard wires up the steering column. The horn button grounds the black wire.

Yes, two problems. When you jumped the orange power wire to the green, the horns should sound. So an issue forward. The horn button black wire goes through a spring loaded slip ring at the steering wheel. Common problem there. You can back probe the black wire at the connector for the turn signals with a ground lead, the relay should click closed.

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scenic760

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Soooo...circling back around on this... I pulled the grill off and jumpered the + battery straight to the horns and the work.

Would that lead me back to the black wire at the steering wheel being severed or it sounds like the green wire going to the horns is busted somewhere?
 

Turbo4whl

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Okay, start back at the relay because you have at least 2 issues. You know the horn works. Jumping power from the orange wire to the green, no horn. The horn does use quite a few amps, that is why it has the relay. The wire connectors at the relay could be corroded. Using a good jumper wire from the battery positive to the green wire on the horn relay, if the horn sounds, the green wire is okay but the orange wire is corroded.

Horn does not work with the jumper, the green wire is corroded or cut open. You need to repair the green wire. The next test after fixing the green wire is to test the relay. Test the relay by grounding the black wire to the battery negative. You want to have the electrical load to the horn working to test the contacts in the relay.

Save the wire to the steering wheel button for last as that is the most work to repair, and it maybe okay.

I booked marked this thread so I'll see when you report back.
 

StickyLifter

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Okay, start back at the relay because you have at least 2 issues. You know the horn works. Jumping power from the orange wire to the green, no horn. The horn does use quite a few amps, that is why it has the relay. The wire connectors at the relay could be corroded. Using a good jumper wire from the battery positive to the green wire on the horn relay, if the horn sounds, the green wire is okay but the orange wire is corroded.

Horn does not work with the jumper, the green wire is corroded or cut open. You need to repair the green wire. The next test after fixing the green wire is to test the relay. Test the relay by grounding the black wire to the battery negative. You want to have the electrical load to the horn working to test the contacts in the relay.

Save the wire to the steering wheel button for last as that is the most work to repair, and it maybe okay.

I booked marked this thread so I'll see when you report back.
Great advice!
 

scenic760

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Okay, start back at the relay because you have at least 2 issues. You know the horn works. Jumping power from the orange wire to the green, no horn. The horn does use quite a few amps, that is why it has the relay. The wire connectors at the relay could be corroded. Using a good jumper wire from the battery positive to the green wire on the horn relay, if the horn sounds, the green wire is okay but the orange wire is corroded.

Horn does not work with the jumper, the green wire is corroded or cut open. You need to repair the green wire. The next test after fixing the green wire is to test the relay. Test the relay by grounding the black wire to the battery negative. You want to have the electrical load to the horn working to test the contacts in the relay.

Save the wire to the steering wheel button for last as that is the most work to repair, and it maybe okay.

I booked marked this thread so I'll see when you report back.
Hey Turbo, THANKS!

Working backwards saved the day! I found a small section of the green wire had been cut out up by the driver side horn. I'm assuming for the "oooh-gaaa" horns of the 80's that had subsequently gone away...I spliced it back, put the relay back in and everything works as it should! That horn probably hasn't worked in 25 years! Now I need to find a cooler sounding horn for sure!!
 

Turbo4whl

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You are welcome Chris.
 

Randy and Easton

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Wayne, you are a rock star! Great help. We had same problem and I have a temporary button on dash till I can back into the rebuilt steering wheel to see why its not grounding there but everything else works and it passed inspection.

If I get in column, can I run just a new dedicate black wire from the steering ring ground and go direct back to my relay bypassing the wiring harness we just put in? It obviously does not work. I tried to test the black wire but it looks like its not grounding as I get nothing when I send 12V up to horn button.

Randy and E
 

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Turbo4whl

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So if you have narrowed it down to the trigger wire, then you will need to pull the steering wheel. Then remove the lock plate. Under that is the contact ring. They are also a common problem. Get dirty or the plastic parts fall apart. May be the brush spring rusted away. You will locate something wrong there.
 

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