Front hub specialty socket

BJedi76

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1986 GMC 1500 Sierra Classic 4x4 SWB w/305” on a 700R4

I’m doing the front brakes.

what is the size of the specialty socket for removing the first hub nut?

and what makes it “special?”
 

rpcraft

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1986 GMC 1500 Sierra Classic 4x4 SWB w/305” on a 700R4

I’m doing the front brakes.

what is the size of the specialty socket for removing the first hub nut?

and what makes it “special?”


I''m assuming you are changing rotors?

You

It's got 4 prongs that stick out and engage in the 4 lock nuts so it's not a size so much, you just have to find some place that knows what it is and sells it. Amazon has it if you have time to wait - OEM tools part # 25072. I just checked stock at one of my local autozones and it says in stock so you might check there first to see if they have a loaner (also oreillys or whatever) and/or if not then have one in stock. Autozone is usually pretty good about just opening a shelf tool and making it a loaner if they don't have one to loan out already.

Sorry for the huge photo but I didnt want to do any work on reducing it but you can see what makes it work.

Just some advice before you go Gonzo. Your also going to need a pair of snap ring pliers that open when you close the handles, and I would recommend a couple of strong angle headed picks to get the circlip parts that hold the hub innards out. If you still have those auto locking hubs it might be time to upgrade those as well. There is a premium set of Mile marker hubs at Advance for like 60 bucks. Buy yourself about a case of brake cleaner and you might want to go ahead and prepare to buy bearings and seals and a tub if high heat grease as well since you are in there and if it has not been done in a long time or ever then you are probably going to get it apart and find out it you have hidden damage and it needs it. The previous owner of my axles let the seals go bad on the hubs and it ruined the expensive cast metal set of Warn hubs they had installed :(.

Here is a video I found on youtube to help along. I have not finished watching it to see if there is any misinformation but so far he has a good start, lol...


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rpcraft

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Also got you a pack of the red shop rags and roll or two of the blue shop towels. And do not use the punch like he is doing, especially if you have not done it before.

Look online and find the torque specs for a dana 44 or gm 10 bolt and tighten it according to that if you are not familiar with doing it by feel. A lot of folks have done it by knowing how it feels and that is fine but if you are inexperienced you'll probably have it a little too loose and bad things can happen from there.

Good luck!
 

Jawzjeep

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I'll second that. No punch.
 

rpcraft

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I think the tool costs 20 or so bucks at amazon. I assure you it costs a lot more to replace the locking nuts and washers, lol. Also the main reason not to use a punch is because it raises the edge of the nut and then when you torque it down to spec the load is not spread across the nut, but rather the high point you just raised with the chisel, and after about 500 miles the nut will walk and just tear stuff up from there. Fix it right once with the right tool and it will cost less and be less dangerous in the long run.
 

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