Front end stuff

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Croc1990

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So I'm in the midst of doing my bearings and ball joints and I'm trying to find the socket for those locking hub rings(the socket with prongs on it) Canadian tire and napa don't know what I'm talking about or need a specific size. There a part number I could give the. To cross reference that?
1983 k 2500
 

bucket

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Usually NAPA is the safest bet to find one.
 

Craig 85

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I used a Performance Tool #W1269 2.25" 4 pin spindle nut for my last 3/4 ton with a 10 bolt. My K30 with a D60 uses a 2.5".

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Croc1990

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I found one convinced them to sell me the one instead of the kit.
I'm having a brain fart with the parts I have left. Well it's those 2 big springs mostly are throwing me off where they go
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75gmck25

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I found the large socket in stock at Advance Auto Parts, and it was listed as a 4WD axle socket. I had to figure out which one of the 3 worked for my truck, and was lucky enough to pick the right one the first time.

If you are changing the upper ball joint, you also need one of these spanner sockets.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...n-XXqjpWXYQMeRY4ygPRpq50bobV58UUaAn2wEALw_wcB

In the package for the upper ball joint you will get the ball joint and large nut that is threaded on the inside and outside. After pressing the ball joint out, the hub will still have that large nut/fitting screwed into the hub, and you use the special spanner socket to remove the old fitting.

The stock nut/fitting that comes in the package is symmetrical and the ball joint presses in evenly. Apparently you can buy an eccentric fitting or washer that change the camber of the hub as you adjust it. The only other way to adjust camber on these axles is to bend metal. This article has some info on camber adjustment. https://www.jeepfan.com/projects/castor-camber-corrector-install/

Bruce
 

idahovette

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I found the large socket in stock at Advance Auto Parts, and it was listed as a 4WD axle socket. I had to figure out which one of the 3 worked for my truck, and was lucky enough to pick the right one the first time.

If you are changing the upper ball joint, you also need one of these spanner sockets.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...n-XXqjpWXYQMeRY4ygPRpq50bobV58UUaAn2wEALw_wcB

In the package for the upper ball joint you will get the ball joint and large nut that is threaded on the inside and outside. After pressing the ball joint out, the hub will still have that large nut/fitting screwed into the hub, and you use the special spanner socket to remove the old fitting.

The stock nut/fitting that comes in the package is symmetrical and the ball joint presses in evenly. Apparently you can buy an eccentric fitting or washer that change the camber of the hub as you adjust it. The only other way to adjust camber on these axles is to bend metal. This article has some info on camber adjustment. https://www.jeepfan.com/projects/castor-camber-corrector-install/

Bruce
Moog ,Specialty Products and a few more make shims to install behind the spindle to change camber without putting undo pressure on the ball joint stud. Have never seen anyone bend a solid axle for camber on purpose
 

75gmck25

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I have read somewhere that you can somehow bend the hub itself (not the axle) and adjust camber. However, I don't have any idea how you would do it, and it does not sound like a good idea.

I did see them adjust camber on a '77 Ford E150 with the twin I-beam suspension, and that was an interesting process to watch. They strapped the outer end of the truck's I-beam to a steel beam in the floor (inner end was attached to the truck), and then put a hydraulic jack in the middle of the beam. He tapped on the beam to make it vibrate (relieve stress?), and the jack pressure slowly bent the beam up in the middle.

Bruce
 

idahovette

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That's the way we used to do it on the twin eyes. I had a electric over hydraulic 50 ton ram instead of a jack. About 20 feet of cord and that was NOT long enough. Duckin and divin when things started creaking and groaning. Got em close but they were still fords. Maybe when he tapped on the beam he was saying goodby?? Never heard of bending a hub
 

dvdswan

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You would need to cut and turn the "C"s on the axle end if you wanted to adjust the camber. Very common when you SAS a vehicle.
 

Croc1990

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I was a dummy and didn't take pictures. Where do the springs go?
 

75gmck25

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I have a few pictures, but I had fixed hubs that don't have springs.

I would search online for info on locking axle hubs, since they are OEM for some trucks, and also sold by a lot of vendors. I'm sure somebody has an assembly diagram online.

Just a question - where are you located in Saskatchewan? I grew up in North Dakota, and we spent a lot of time across the border in Canada for various reasons.

Bruce
 

Croc1990

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I'm north of weyburn small town called yellow grass
I think I figured it out the big spring went inside the hub selector cap and the smaller spring fit inside the hub behind that small gear and seems to be held together by a small screw to stop it from popping out
 

75gmck25

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I don't think I ever made it to Yellow Grass unless we took that road to get to Regina.

Growing up we frequently rented cabins at Kenosee Lake because it had swimming for the kids and a golf course for my Dad. My grandparents also told us stories about going to Carlyle Lake in the 20's and 30's because they thought the fishing was so good.

Bruce
 

Croc1990

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You might of driven past it just small town of the highway. Mind you it's a little hard to miss now speed drops from 100km to 50km through town.
I've encountered another problem got it all back together huh nuts torqued out the locker piece in the hub and now I can't get the snap ring on the axle.
I've tried prying the Axle out a bit and no such luck
 

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