Front brake hoses on 85 C10

Mad Professor

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Hi folks great site here. I've already read up a lot and got some good suggestions from old posts.

I made a mistake of not going to my usual place for RMV inspection. Mechanic there was out and it was near end of the month to get a sticker. The place I went to gave me a rejection for two tiny cracks in the rubber on the front brake hoses, cracks didn't even go all the way around and I had a hard time finding the cracks, I should have known better and waited. Truck is an 85 with 305 V8 , power steering and still has the smog pump.

Getting to the metal flare fitting on the metal lines going to the hoses is giving me fits. Driver side I can get a flare wrench on it but can't contort my arm/hand to get the nut loose. It's been hit with PB blaster a few days now and I think I can get at it with a propane torch. I also just bought a set of crowfoot flare wrenches.

The passenger side is worse as there is fuel lines, the rear brake line, the smog pump, and the fuel pump in the way. I'm hoping the blaster and the heat I'll be able to get drivers side off without stripping the nut or twisting the line, I'm not sure about passenger side without cutting the line? I don't want to use a torch on that side as too close to gas lines. Both metal lines are in good shape. Not sure how hard to move the smog pump?

From what I've read is people cut then grind off the hose remnants on the wheel side and bend the metal line to access it/fittings and/or replace it, or snip the line and pull out the stuck nut with the hose towards the wheel. Worst case I have a roll of nickel copper tubing, flare fittings/connectors, flare tool.

It looks like the brake combination valve is also a little hard to get at fittings. Can you heat that a little without destroying it? That has also been sprayed with blaster. They seem to be pricey.

The other joy is I'll be doing this in the driveway and cold weather is coming next week.

Any suggestions are welcome, I've spent a few hours searching the topic here already.
 

Tank6x2

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Buy one directly from rock auto, grind it off, no harm in heating it, likely no Oring if there is well just replace it. I’d spray everything with kroil before even attempting
 

Tank6x2

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Also, the ones near the gas line aren’t much to worry about, wet rag, heat it up move on - pics sometimes to identify what your speaking of will help distinguish components clearly for reference
 

Mad Professor

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Also, the ones near the gas line aren’t much to worry about, wet rag, heat it up move on - pics sometimes to identify what your speaking of will help distinguish components clearly for reference

I'm leery of a torch inch(es) from the gas lines, wet rag is a good idea.

No pictures but to clarify these are the 3/8" flare fittings on the metal lines from the combination valve, that screw into the caliper brake hoses on the insides of the frame rails.
 

Turbo4whl

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When the heat doesn't work....

A trick you can sometimes do, pull the clip off the brake hose. Pull the brake hose and metal line out far enough to get your wrench on the the flare nut, Then a pipe wrench on the metal end of the hose and spin the hose off the flare nut and rusted tube. Spin the new hose on.

If the tightened new hose will not line up with the lock notch, mark it. Remove the new hose, grind or file metal from the hose end or the metal bracket and reinstall.
 

Mad Professor

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Made some progress today on drivers side. I'm working in the driveway so took off the wheel and supported lower control arm on two pieces of scrap 2 X 8" cutoffs and a 6 X 6" cutoff. Hit all the fittings with PB blaster again. This gave me enough wiggle room to get under the truck and see the fittings where the brake hose goes through the frame. I took off the banjo bolt (10mm) on the caliper and let the fluid drip out of the hose and caliper before moving on. I hate brake fluid running down my arm.....

I still could not get a 3/8" tubing wrench to turn the flare nut, on the steel line inside the frame rail (3/8" X 24 threads), just not room to grasp it or turn it. I put a crowfoot tubing wrench on the nut and tapped it down until it touched the threaded end of the hose. This both held the wrench square on the nut and gave full contact on the hex head. I put a 3" extension on it and used a 3/8 ratchet to turn it. Got it to break free without heating. I found out I was out of propane after I'd already got the truck jacked up......need to get some before starting other side.

The steel line was in good shape and I moved it out of the way to get to the thin 15/16" nut (5/8" threads), holding the hose on the inside of frame. Used a 1/2" drive 15/16" socket w/6" extension/ratchet and nut came right off.

The caliper, rotor and brakes pads (~1/2 worn) were still in good shape/turns free and smooth, so decided to wait on replacing those and re-packing bearings. Caliper bleeder broke free easy, also 10mm. I did a trial fit on the new brake hose. Found out they gave me the wrong one!!!! FK!!! The caliper end would not fit the caliper, correct size bolt hole but shape of the connection was different .

At least I had not also wasted time connecting the hose on the inside of the frame rail to the metal line.........Seems they put the wrong part in the right package, part # was correct.

No parts stores in town had the hose in stock ( I called them all), I've got one on the way for early tomorrow. I hope to get that side back together before the rain from the remants of the hurricane gets here in the afternoon. Other side will have to wait. Seems they did give me the correct hose for passenger side.
 

SqueakyTruck

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I've been having hell with these same lines. Where did you find the crows foot line wrench? Mine are so stuck that I'm just rounding the little brass 3/8 bolts every time I can get my line wrench on them. I am replacing the lines as a part of the Little Shop Manufacturing Wilwood kit I got. Glad you've had some success, mine have been soaking in penetrating oil for a week as well as I hit them with a torch last night, and still nothing.

Im at the point where I am very tempted to replace the hard lines too. I'm doing a disc brake conversion too, so maybe Ill just change everything all the way to the booster...
 

Mad Professor

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both C10
Engine Size
292 and 305H
I've been having hell with these same lines. Where did you find the crows foot line wrench? Mine are so stuck that I'm just rounding the little brass 3/8 bolts every time I can get my line wrench on them. I am replacing the lines as a part of the Little Shop Manufacturing Wilwood kit I got. Glad you've had some success, mine have been soaking in penetrating oil for a week as well as I hit them with a torch last night, and still nothing.

Im at the point where I am very tempted to replace the hard lines too. I'm doing a disc brake conversion too, so maybe Ill just change everything all the way to the booster...
If I had $$$ I'd have gotten the Snap-On ones. Harbor Freight had a set for ~$15. 3/8"- ? 6 or 7 in the set

Once you round the nuts might as well do the lines. My lines/nuts are good/no rust, but I have a 25' roll of Ni/Copper line and a flare tool and fittings, If I need to hack the lines.

I've been spraying down the other/passenger side and might get to it today or tomorrow. From underneath it looks like I can get at it the same way. I was thinking the smog pump was going to screw me, we'll see.....

On the drivers side I got that back together but a weird thing happened. I bought a set of new bleeder valves for the calipers. Damm caliper would not bleed just drip, even with bleeder 1/2-3/4 turn out. When I took the new bleeder out it flowed so I put the old one back in. It flowed fine and I left it in with some never-seize.

Damm junk set of bleeders were $16!!! they went back to the store. Never seen a bleeder that didn't bleed....
 

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