Engine stand block mounting

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Ronno6

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My 350 block is mounted to my engine stand, but is very top-heavy.
Makes it really difficult to roll over to top side up.
Lower mounting arms just about parallel with ground.
How balanced should (can) the block be when it is mounted?
I would have to think that the condition will only get much worse when
pistons and heads are installed....the crank is below c/l but barely so,
and I can't think it will offset the top-heavy condition much.
 

bucket

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You just have to adjust the mounting arms so that the crank centerline is lower than the pivot point of the stand.
 

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What bolt holes are you using to bolt it to the stand? The top arms should be bolted to the top 2 bellhousing mounts. Is the stand a 3 or a 4 wheeler? 3 wheelers have been known to be a little more tippy than its 4 wheeled counterpart.
 

Ronno6

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What bolt holes are you using to bolt it to the stand? The top arms should be bolted to the top 2 bellhousing mounts. Is the stand a 3 or a 4 wheeler? 3 wheelers have been known to be a little more tippy than its 4 wheeled counterpart.

I used the top 2 and the bottom 2 on my 4 wheel stand.
 

Ronno6

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You just have to adjust the mounting arms so that the crank centerline is lower than the pivot point of the stand.

Yup.I'm gonna drop it as far as it will adjust.
Thanks.
 

bucket

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Also, when I put my stands together, I always smear some grease on the big pipe that rotates in the sleeve. It makes rotating it over easier and more controlled, but you still need to be careful so it doesn't get away from you.

One of these days I'll get a couple nicer stands that have a crank to rotate them over. One day.
 

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Shorter top arms for block mounting would permit a deeper drop on the stand.
For now, I have it as low as it can go.
Once I get the pistons /rods in and button up the oil pan, my flipping days should be over.........
 

BBCfan

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With my BBC on a 3 wheeled stand it is top heavy. As already said grease the pivot real well and, to increase my control, I use a large crescent wrench on the arms. Always keep that locking pin REAL handy!
 

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3 wheels are crap 4 is more stable.
 

bucket

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3 wheels are crap 4 is more stable.

Coming from the guy that owns a step stool with wheels on it :rofl:

I do agree though, 3 wheels make it way too easy to tip over. Especially if you have to move it across an unlevel floor.
 

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Coming from the guy that owns a step stool with wheels on it :rofl:

I do agree though, 3 wheels make it way too easy to tip over. Especially if you have to move it across an unlevel floor.
And stop making the Chinese richer stop buying horrible freight engine stands. Unless you like coming out to your garage and finding your engine sitting on the floor.
 

bucket

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I'll bet all my stands are made in China, they've all come from local parts stores and Jeg's. I do have a 3 wheel stand that was given to me, and it might be American made. All I use that one for is to keep a bare block off the dirt in the barn.

Harbor Freight sells a couple different engine hoists, the bigger one is actually a very nice unit. I've never used their engine stands.
 

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Harbor Freight sells a couple different engine hoists, the bigger one is actually a very nice unit. I've never used their engine stands.

I have a HFT 2 ton hoist that works like a champ and a HFT 1 ton engine stand that scares me.

My stand will hold a fully dressed 454 but it leans really, really bad. I sleeved the hugely oversized mounting bolt holes and put a wood block under the oil pan to help limit its lean at the time. The “pinch” bolt on the rear square tube is sketchy. No way I could rotate anything of this size or weight on it either.

But it was the only stand I could buy for $40 locally the day before I picked up the engine.

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Honky Kong jr

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I have a HFT 2 ton hoist that works like a champ and a HFT 1 ton engine stand that scares me.

My stand will hold a fully dressed 454 but it leans really, really bad. I sleeved the hugely oversized mounting bolt holes and put a wood block under the oil pan to help limit its lean at the time. The “pinch” bolt on the rear square tube is sketchy. No way I could rotate anything of this size or weight on it either.

But it was the only stand I could buy for $40 locally the day before I picked up the engine.

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I’d weld the connections and not rely on the bolts.
 

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