Edelbrock Carb #1406 Calibration & Reference Chart

[crazy4offroad]

OK after some quick searching I see that the ratio will need to richen up some, so I now know what direction to go in. These are the charts I've been going by to tune with. All the numbers in black circles are the ones achievable by the #1487 tuning kit I have...

And these are the rod/jet combos possible, using the numbers from the chart above to pick the setting you want to try...

Stock setting on the secondaries is 0.095" which is where I have it now, and the choices I have are stock, 0.098" and 0.101". You can also control when and how much the secondaries come on by tweaking the linkage bars, so I have plenty of tuning to accomplish!

 

[HotRodPC]

Being this is such a common Mod or Aftermarket fix for our older trucks, it's to good of info to get lost in other threads. Any other #1406 or Eddy Carb info can be added to this thread.

 

[HotRodPC]

OK after some quick searching I see that the ratio will need to richen up some, so I now know what direction to go in. These are the charts I've been going by to tune with. All the numbers in black circles are the ones achievable by the #1487 tuning kit I have...

And these are the rod/jet combos possible, using the numbers from the chart above to pick the setting you want to try...

Stock setting on the secondaries is 0.095" which is where I have it now, and the choices I have are stock, 0.098" and 0.101". You can also control when and how much the secondaries come on by tweaking the linkage bars, so I have plenty of tuning to accomplish!

Good **** !!! Copied post to Engine & Performance and Stuck it !!!

 

[Tyger13us]

OK after some quick searching I see that the ratio will need to richen up some, so I now know what direction to go in. These are the charts I've been going by to tune with. All the numbers in black circles are the ones achievable by the #1487 tuning kit I have...

And these are the rod/jet combos possible, using the numbers from the chart above to pick the setting you want to try...

Stock setting on the secondaries is 0.095" which is where I have it now, and the choices I have are stock, 0.098" and 0.101". You can also control when and how much the secondaries come on by tweaking the linkage bars, so I have plenty of tuning to accomplish!

On my carb 1405 same as a 1406 but without the elec choke (but i added the elec choke to mine) and jetted really fat,, i went with 98 pri jets and 71x47 rods,, i tryed the 73x47 rods,, but it just wont run right.. with the 98 jets and 71x47 rods and the orange 5 spring my air/fuel meter runs going down the road 13.9/14.1/14.2.. idles @ 13.0 and it runs really well now and the mileage went up to14-18 mpg depending on how i drive it.. tooling around town the meter never goes below 14.4-15.0....

i tryed 70x47 rods with the 98 jets and my motor runs to rich on the meter 12.6-7-8 to 13.0,, mileage sucked 8-10 mpg..

the pump nozzle was to big also so went with the 21 and the outer most hole in the pump arm....

the 95 secondairy jets @ 95 was so to say the least a dog sled,, tryed 98's,, but still didnt like it,, went to .101 jets and full throttle @ 80-120 mph the air fuel ratio is spot on @ 12.5 up to 5500 rpms in 3rd turbo 350/205/3.73-31.10.5x15's... pulled real hard right up there better than it ever has..

my temps are stable now also @ 190 after a hard run,, rather than creeping up and up and up chevy hot "time to turn on the heater time",, lol,,, and i have A new 4 core rad the biggest ya can buy one step below the diesel rad......

As a side note? this is at 5300ft,, so @ sea level or so i will be running really lean and would have to do a rod change to 68x47 with the 98 jet or 65x47...but Im not sure about sea level,, the closest that would be is 1000 miles away from here... but a rod change is quick and easy...

just some info to add to food for thought!

 

[crazy4offroad]

Hey Jeff what's your CR and what heads you running? Good to know about your results with the a/f meter, I was looking at buying one lol. Mine seems really close now, but more throw on the accelerator pump seems to hurt it which is why I was staying with the 0.095 secondary. Last time I really fattened it up it looked like I swapped in a diesel with the black smoke I was getting. Engine just feels a little held back at WOT from mid powerband to the top. Otherwise it cruises fine.

 

[Tyger13us]

my set up

the heads are 1969 lt1 041 heads with 194 intakes and 160 exhaust with stainless seats ported to match all the gaskets int/exh,, they have been shaved some also,, factory spec say there 64cc's but when they were flow benched and cc'ed they were 62cc's in the combustion chambers..

its a .40 over 69 lt1 4bolt block with seal power Teflon scurted flat top forged pistons and balanced within 5 grains..

the machinist figured it was 11:1,, maybe a wee under that like 10.9:1,, he did deck the block too,, but im running felpro blu gaskets for clearance,, just in case...

my timing is set @ 15 before with 22 mechanical total 37degs @ 2500 rpms and with vacuum connected ported total is 55degs @ 2500 rpms,, its a lil to much timing total @ 55 degs? but it dont ping and it fires right up and never diesels... if i went down to lower altitude,, id have to retard it a lil bit... and i can run pump regular gas also,, but it dont run as good as it does with 91 gas...

 

[Tyger13us]

air fuel meter

the air fuel meter was one of the best tuning/info/meters decisions i made,, i could really dial the motor in with it,, ive spent weeks tweeking the carb..

i have tryed every jet and rod combo for the 1406/1405 carb possible and finally found the right combo,, the motor would run ok,, but really didnt run like it should have,, now its like a 2 cycle,, it motors around really nice to where a normal person can drive it,, but when ya get on it,, it lites up like the upper power ban of a 2 stroke,, ya better have it pointed in the right direction when it turns on!!

i have a 750 1407 and tryed that carb,, but the 750's have an off idle stumble that no one seems to be able to get rid of??, even me!, if i was to run a 750,, id go with a q-jet or maybe a holley,, but the 1405/1406 is plenty!! of carb up to about 500hp..

the motor will go 7k rpms,, but i keep it down to 6k max and it will go 6k in drive/3rd gear going down the hiway,, really quick too, but taking a lifted 4x4 up to about 130 or so isnt such a good idea,, one lil gust of wind and that would be all she wrote.....

i havent taken it to the track yet,, but im thinking about it to see what the ET's are.....

what i write about the 1405/1406 are general guide lines that i have spent months/years of trial and error,, your exp may vary..

and by the way? the outer most hole on the pump rod is LESS pump,, the inner most hole is MORE pump.....

i have some rod and jet charts for carter and edlebrock,, i will see if i can figure out a way to post them,, there in .pdf.. they are not the charts in the carb owners manual.........

 

[crazy4offroad]

Yeah the pics above are screenshots from the Edelbrock pdf file for tuning. I did fatten up the ratio, went straight for setting #19 with the 0.101" secondaries and the accelerator pump in the middle hole. Had a little stumble, quite noticeable. Then I tried #1 stock setting and it would fall flat on its face from idle to WOT. So then Andy showed up and I tried #23 and he rode with me. It seemed like it was very close so we went back and I put a heavier step-up spring and the longer throw on the acc pump. We went up the road this time, hoping the down the road neighbors wouldn't start throwing rocks at us haha. It seemed like it was a step backwards, slight stumble. I'm thinking shorter throw on the acc pump, new distributor since Andy pointed out my counterweights and pins are pretty worn and the wiring looks pretty bad, and also a higher stall on the converter. I showed him you cant make that thing stall at the advertised stock 1800 rpm, at 1300 it begins powerbraking. But I can definitely tell the bigger secondaries helped the top end but it still wants more so I'm thinking some linkage tweaking and/or lightening the counterweight on the secondaries will help. Andy seemed to think it was doing better, I'm anxious to get the rest of the stuff done and see how it does in 4-Lo at a race!!

 

[Tyger13us]

Yeah the pics above are screenshots from the Edelbrock pdf file for tuning. I did fatten up the ratio, went straight for setting #19 with the 0.101" secondaries and the accelerator pump in the middle hole. Had a little stumble, quite noticeable. Then I tried #1 stock setting and it would fall flat on its face from idle to WOT. So then Andy showed up and I tried #23 and he rode with me. It seemed like it was very close so we went back and I put a heavier step-up spring and the longer throw on the acc pump. We went up the road this time, hoping the down the road neighbors wouldn't start throwing rocks at us haha. It seemed like it was a step backwards, slight stumble. I'm thinking shorter throw on the acc pump, new distributor since Andy pointed out my counterweights and pins are pretty worn and the wiring looks pretty bad, and also a higher stall on the converter. I showed him you cant make that thing stall at the advertised stock 1800 rpm, at 1300 it begins powerbraking. But I can definitely tell the bigger secondaries helped the top end but it still wants more so I'm thinking some linkage tweaking and/or lightening the counterweight on the secondaries will help. Andy seemed to think it was doing better, I'm anxious to get the rest of the stuff done and see how it does in 4-Lo at a race!!

Ok,, got ya,, i had to read and read to process the info,,LOL,, i have brain farts every so often..

it would seem to me from what ya say ya have an off idle stumble,, doing anything with the weights in the secondary's will cause a BOG,, id leave that alone and work on the primary side first..

what size squirter nozzels ya got?,, is the pump working like new? i find the orange rubber pump works way better than the black ones..

id try the 70x47 rods with the 98 primary jets and 98's in the secondary's..

i dont know what size nozzels ya have? 1406 is .031 stock,, is the ball at the bottom with the brass weight on top of it?

the other thing is i dont know your elevation? so this is all just an educated guess...

i also dont know what ya got in that motor,, cam/heads/intake/pistons..

but i would run the heavest dist weights ya can find and mess with the dist springs till it will set timing at idle and as soon as ya bring up engine speed just a wee but it starts to advance,,, thats with out vacuum connected!!!

one other thing that comes to mind about the stumble,, is? take a good look at the rotor,, flip it upside down and look to see if there is any gray around the center,, with hei dist,, when ya stand on it,, it demands ALOT of power from the coil and if the center shows color? the spark may be just going through the rotor to the shaft other than to the cylinders,, ya really wont notice it too much cruising around,,, unless the rotor is really burnt in the center,, but ya put some power to it and it will go to the path of least resistance straight down threw the rotor to the shaft? ya fallow me?...

i had to go dig through my junk to see if i had one to show for an example,, dont i guess i tossed all the bad ones........

the other thing that comes to mind is that your coil may be failing,, pop off the lil square top part and look to see if there are round discoloring on the sides of the coil next to the mettle outside part,, if it shows colored ring its starting to fail from heat... or shorts out under load.....

i found one,, a pic of what to look for.....

better yet go here and get one of these!!!! there great!! but find and old control module that has GM printed on it and use that one and stuff the new one in the glove box for back up..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-BBC-CHE...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5656b9d28e

best i can do for now......

 

[bucket]

I would call it a slight stumble that is immediately followed by a bit of a bog. It also seems to be a little inconsistent, sometimes the bog is a little worse than other times.

Also, the cap and rotor looked good. However the coil power wire has a section spliced in that is small gauge wire, do you think that could be some of the issue?

 

[crazy4offroad]

Stock bore/stroke, stock pistons, Edelbrock Performer cam, Vortec heads, Weiand Stealth intake, stock squirters on the acc pump nozzles, Accel Supercoil. I think I have the rods/jets real close. I think the majority of the problem lies in the distributor. After thinking about it I'm not going to get a new distributor, I'm wanting to get the top/weights/springs kit and an MSD ignition control with rev limiter, those 2 things will be less than a quality distributor anyway, and all other parts in my distributor are fairly new. I think one of the major problems is I cut the main power wire for the coil to put a kill switch in with smaller gauge wire. I'll eliminate the switch, do the distributor weights and ignition control then see how it is after that. If it seems to cure the hesitation next I'll be looking at getting a higher stall converter.

 

[Tyger13us]

Stock bore/stroke, stock pistons, Edelbrock Performer cam, Vortec heads, Weiand Stealth intake, stock squirters on the acc pump nozzles, Accel Supercoil. I think I have the rods/jets real close. I think the majority of the problem lies in the distributor. After thinking about it I'm not going to get a new distributor, I'm wanting to get the top/weights/springs kit and an MSD ignition control with rev limiter, those 2 things will be less than a quality distributor anyway, and all other parts in my distributor are fairly new. I think one of the major problems is I cut the main power wire for the coil to put a kill switch in with smaller gauge wire. I'll eliminate the switch, do the distributor weights and ignition control then see how it is after that. If it seems to cure the hesitation next I'll be looking at getting a higher stall converter.

that dist i linked to is top notch stuff.. a new cap and rotor cost more than the whole dist..

i had an accell super coil and it caused more problems than it solved,, it has no internal ground wire,, just the yellow or white depending on the coil and red wire connection..

i had my electric choke connected to the main dist coil wire for power and it cause problems also..

be-careful of the weights and springs ya get,, most kits are more for drag/bracket racing and hard to set up for a 4x4 truck.....

And id put a 4 hole 1 inch spacer between the carb and manifold,, it will increase the cfm rating of the carb by 50+ cfms in the top end and give more low end torque...... it elongates the ventures and makes the carb more responsive without loosing so much vacuum at the base of the carb so quickly when ya crack open the butterflys.....

im not a fan of msd systems for hei ignition,, ive seen nothing but problems,, so no comment on those........

just my exp,, yours may varie,, there are no 2 motors created the same and takes different measures to tweek um to get it to feel right...

 

[Tyger13us]

I would call it a slight stumble that is immediately followed by a bit of a bog. It also seems to be a little inconsistent, sometimes the bog is a little worse than other times.

Also, the cap and rotor looked good. However the coil power wire has a section spliced in that is small gauge wire, do you think that could be some of the issue?

the wire issue could cause problems,, the coil will receive 12v as it should,, but it may not be getting the amps it need to function right,, with a kill switch at the other end could cause to much resistance and lower the amps by alot to the coil,, like the old old set ups with the resister wire running to the old coil setups..

like i wrote to offroad,, i had my choke wire connected to the coil wire and that cause lower amps to the coil,, yea it had 12v,, but not the full amperage needed..

 

[Tyger13us]

fuel starvation

In my case i was having a fuel starvation problem,, sometime it would go,, sometimes it would stumble..

going down the road and stand on it and it would fall flat on its face...

so here are the things i went through to solve the problem..

i tryed a new edelbrock/carter mechanical fuel pump,, it helped but didnt fix it.

i hooked up a fuel recirculation system as to where the fuel coming from the pump to the carb had a filter with an extra connection to it and routed it back to the tank so fresh cool fuel was always getting to the carb,, it helped alot,, but my tanks only have 2 lines and the smaller one is a vent only to the vapor canister and fuel wouldnt go back into the tanks..

so i pulled the tanks and the senders and removed the stopper from the vent line so fuel would pass through,, also while i was at it,, i put the left sending unit in the right tank and the right in the left tank,, so the pick up tube was pointing to the rear of the tank and tore off the sock and extended the puckup tube with some REAL good fuel line that wont go to **** by the gas eating it...

reason being? when i would stand on it all the gas would go to the back of the tank and the pickup tube was pointing forward and would starve for fuel,, there wasnt any there to pickup,, and "old race/bracket car trick"..
it also helped when climbing up long up hill runs..

put it back together and that solved most of the problem i was having,, even the hot starts when the pressure was still in the fuel lines when shut off and would flood the carb and drip down past the venturies/ fuel dripping....

still didnt completely fix the problem of surging and bog..... so? loosing more gray hair and im already bald,, lol,, i got a carter self regulating electric fuel pump consistent 6# of pressure and put it next to the tank switch,, that helped some..

so tore the carb apart and i had them spring loaded needle and seats in it for off road? they dont work,, i tryed every damn float settings and nothing would help,, so tore the carb apart again and put in the pink tipped needles and made sure the floats were LEVEL with the top of the carb top plate when upside down,, and let the float drop go all the way down to the bottom of the carb,, so when i shook the carb after the top was back on ya could hear the floats hit the bottom of the carb..

i also drilled tiny lil holes in the gas cap center on the inside so pressure wouldnt build up in the tanks? and also so the tanks wouldnt create a vacuum in them from fuel being removed from them going down the road..

put it all back on/together,, God damn it was fixed,, no fuel starvation,, no bog,, no top end hunting for fuel.......

every lil bit helps

then i got the air fuel meter and finished dialing in the carb.....

 

[SafetyHelmet]

Does anyone know the "factory" settings for the screws? I read somewhere to turn them all the way in, then back them out 4 1/2 rotations, but that seems like it might be kinda rich compared to what I usually hear for carbs. Anyways, I was messing around with tuning it yesterday before I realized I had no idea what setting it was at to begin with. I recently went to stock mufflers from glass packs, and figured the carb needed to be tweaked.

For reference, I have a yet-to-be-id'd 454 with a 1406 Edelbrock on it. The PO turned it into a manual choke 1406. It starts, idles, runs, and stumbles like hell when I start to give it gas, but then catches back up and seems to run just fine.