1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

DoubleDingo's '81

Discussion in '2wd Pick-Ups C/R 20 2500 C/R 30 3500' started by DoubleDingo, Jul 30, 2012.

  1. DoubleDingo

    DoubleDingo When In Doubt, Throttle Out

    Posts:
    6,376
    Likes Received:
    5,621
    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2012
    Location:
    Right where I am
    First Name:
    Bagoomba
    Truck Year:
    1981, 1965
    Truck Model:
    81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s; 65-C20 with 4:57 gears and Borg Warner Overdrive
    Engine Size:
    Carb'ed Vortec 350; 1972 L48 350
    Okay, I decided to add a build thread for my truck. I don't plan to do a whole bunch to it except get it in good running form and then use it for what it was intended for.

    When I brought it home on Father's Day 2012 it rattled and bounced like crazy, had some side racks installed, and came with low 68,8** original miles. It ran a little too hot for my taste, and needed to be cleaned. Since I didn't know about this website when I bought the truck, I never thought to take "before" pictures. But this is the truck on it's way home at a cool spot to let the pups stretch their legs and do their business...Well, that pic was to be where this text is...oh well, you get the idea...

    First thing I did was spray down the engine compartment and under carriage to rid it of the dust and debris that had built-up on it. When I looked at the coolant it was a greyish brown color with floaties. A couple days later I flushed the cooling system, put a 160 thermostat on it, and filled it with good clean antifreeze.

    Second was a good washing and boy the paint that came off when I did. I need to really get the paint taken care of by getting rid of the oxidation and giving it a good waxing.

    Third was to figure out why it banged and rattled so badly. Tailgate felt tight and so did the bed, but it sounded like the whole back of the truck was going fall off at any given moment. Removed the spare tire hanger in an attempt to pinpoint the noise producing culprit. It wasn't the tire hanger. It was the upper rear shock studs. That and the shocks were shot! Removed the shocks and the studs and no more noise! But what a bouncy ride. A week later I bought some Monroe Gas Shocks for the rear and made sure tighten the studs. The truck rode oh so nice. When I first posted this, I forgot about replacing the modulator valve. The truck shifted horribly, quickly, and softly. So I put a new adjustable modulator valve with the red stripe and now the trucks shifts the way it's supposed to. An inexpensive major improvement!
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 1, 2012
  2. DoubleDingo

    DoubleDingo When In Doubt, Throttle Out

    Posts:
    6,376
    Likes Received:
    5,621
    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2012
    Location:
    Right where I am
    First Name:
    Bagoomba
    Truck Year:
    1981, 1965
    Truck Model:
    81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s; 65-C20 with 4:57 gears and Borg Warner Overdrive
    Engine Size:
    Carb'ed Vortec 350; 1972 L48 350
    Fourth item to be done was clean the undercarriage some more and grease all that needed greased. Also topped off the rear axle with 75w-90. I removed the racks and the truck looks much better.

    Fifth was the front shocks. I used the front shocks from my '65 temporarily because the front shocks were shot as well. A week later I bought some Monroe Sensa-Trac's and now the ride is smooth and nice! The truck handles really good. Also installed some new fuel filters in preparation for filling the "not-used-in-a-very-long-time" passenger side saddle tank.

    Sixth was fill the passenger side tank with 91 Octane and bottle of quality injector/carb cleaner. Drove to Mom and Pop's and the truck burned about an 1/8 of a tank for the 1 hour 10 minute climb up the mountain road. I didn't expect it to get such good mileage especially when it burned about 3/4 tank a few weeks earlier on a 2 hour round trip. So I set the timing a couple degrees advanced from what Chevy says to set it at, adjusted the carb so it didn't run rich anymore, and what a HUGE difference that made!!
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 1, 2012
  3. DoubleDingo

    DoubleDingo When In Doubt, Throttle Out

    Posts:
    6,376
    Likes Received:
    5,621
    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2012
    Location:
    Right where I am
    First Name:
    Bagoomba
    Truck Year:
    1981, 1965
    Truck Model:
    81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s; 65-C20 with 4:57 gears and Borg Warner Overdrive
    Engine Size:
    Carb'ed Vortec 350; 1972 L48 350
    Next up will be remove the stock wheels, clean and pack the front wheel bearings, replace the inner seals, and slap on the aluminum modular wheels, with the General Grabber AT2's mounted on them. After that I need to drain and refill the transmission a few times along with a filter change and cleaning of the pan. Before I left town I got some Lucas transmission stuff to help loosen up anything that was sticking internally in the TH400. It is shifting better, can't wait to see how it shifts with the Dexron/Mercon V in there.

    Then I need to figure out why the A/C and fan isn't working. I can handle no A/C in the summer but I need heat in the winter. From there it will be little stuff that needs it because I need to build my '65 and get it running.

    Edit: Okay, Wednesday night I got out soon after work and commenced to working on the truck. Packed the front wheel bearings and replaced the inner seal. Good thing I did. The bearings were mostly with dried grease and the inner seal on the passenger side was brittle. Packed them with some good high temp red grease, slapped it all back together, through some chrome polish on the center caps, which didn't seem to help much with the badly rusted ones. and I had a feeling it wouldn't; and then sprayed down the tires and wheels to get rid of the 8-legged-critters that were calling them home. The pics below show the results...
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 2, 2012
  4. 89Suburban

    89Suburban Full Access Member

    Age:
    47
    Posts:
    23,096
    Likes Received:
    1,717
    Joined:
    Dec 7, 2010
    Location:
    Southeast PA
    First Name:
    Paw Paw
    Truck Year:
    2007
    Truck Model:
    Chevrolet Tahoe LT
    Engine Size:
    5.3, 4WD
    Man you got me beat in the shocks dept, I rally am jonesing for a fresh set of Monroes all the way around and tightened or replaced mounting studs.
     
  5. Old77

    Old77 Super Moderator Staff Member

    Posts:
    26,855
    Likes Received:
    4,363
    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2010
    Location:
    Kansas City, Mo
    First Name:
    Jacob
    Truck Year:
    1977/1991
    Truck Model:
    C10 longbed/R3500 Dually
    Engine Size:
    350/454
    A build thread is near worthless without pics!! :Sumo:


    :hands:
     
  6. DoubleDingo

    DoubleDingo When In Doubt, Throttle Out

    Posts:
    6,376
    Likes Received:
    5,621
    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2012
    Location:
    Right where I am
    First Name:
    Bagoomba
    Truck Year:
    1981, 1965
    Truck Model:
    81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s; 65-C20 with 4:57 gears and Borg Warner Overdrive
    Engine Size:
    Carb'ed Vortec 350; 1972 L48 350
    I was amazed how much it improved the way the truck handled and how much smoother it rides. I paid around $230 total for all four. Was definitely easier to buy them in two sets of two spaced out between paydays. I say do it man if you can afford them. I used to get KYB but now that I went Monroe I don't see using KYB again.
     
  7. DoubleDingo

    DoubleDingo When In Doubt, Throttle Out

    Posts:
    6,376
    Likes Received:
    5,621
    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2012
    Location:
    Right where I am
    First Name:
    Bagoomba
    Truck Year:
    1981, 1965
    Truck Model:
    81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s; 65-C20 with 4:57 gears and Borg Warner Overdrive
    Engine Size:
    Carb'ed Vortec 350; 1972 L48 350
    I was waiting for somebody to chime in with that...lol... I will post some pics. I need to take some more, I have two thus far.
     
  8. 89Suburban

    89Suburban Full Access Member

    Age:
    47
    Posts:
    23,096
    Likes Received:
    1,717
    Joined:
    Dec 7, 2010
    Location:
    Southeast PA
    First Name:
    Paw Paw
    Truck Year:
    2007
    Truck Model:
    Chevrolet Tahoe LT
    Engine Size:
    5.3, 4WD
    Yup, I am hoping in the next six months or so I can get this done, probably not until tax return time though. Well see how it goes.
     
  9. DoubleDingo

    DoubleDingo When In Doubt, Throttle Out

    Posts:
    6,376
    Likes Received:
    5,621
    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2012
    Location:
    Right where I am
    First Name:
    Bagoomba
    Truck Year:
    1981, 1965
    Truck Model:
    81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s; 65-C20 with 4:57 gears and Borg Warner Overdrive
    Engine Size:
    Carb'ed Vortec 350; 1972 L48 350
    Monday night I got the truck off the ground and removed the stock wheels. Had to get the rear center caps from the '65, the front caps were in the shed. These are the 20 year old caps showing their age. Bet you can't tell which one's were in the shed or on the truck...lol...
     

    Attached Files:

  10. DoubleDingo

    DoubleDingo When In Doubt, Throttle Out

    Posts:
    6,376
    Likes Received:
    5,621
    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2012
    Location:
    Right where I am
    First Name:
    Bagoomba
    Truck Year:
    1981, 1965
    Truck Model:
    81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s; 65-C20 with 4:57 gears and Borg Warner Overdrive
    Engine Size:
    Carb'ed Vortec 350; 1972 L48 350
    Tuesday night I re-threaded the lug studs on the drivers side because when I removed the wheels there were a lot of the lug nuts that gave the impact a run for it's money by not wanting to come off. Lesson learned. After doing the drivers side, I went a grabbed a couple lug nuts to see how they threaded on the freshly re-threaded studs. They're a little loose but will snug up against the rim okay. Checked the passenger side and they bottomed out just fine so all that work to re-thread the studs wasn't needed. But don't they look purrty and new...
     

    Attached Files:

  11. 89Suburban

    89Suburban Full Access Member

    Age:
    47
    Posts:
    23,096
    Likes Received:
    1,717
    Joined:
    Dec 7, 2010
    Location:
    Southeast PA
    First Name:
    Paw Paw
    Truck Year:
    2007
    Truck Model:
    Chevrolet Tahoe LT
    Engine Size:
    5.3, 4WD
    Good save on the studs. Were they acorn, closed end nuts or the plain jane open nuts? If the old school ones, you can chase those threads before removing the nuts.
     
  12. crazy4offroad

    crazy4offroad Service Bullshit Filter Soon

    Age:
    49
    Posts:
    8,408
    Likes Received:
    788
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2010
    Location:
    West BY-GOD Virginia
    First Name:
    Curt
    Truck Year:
    1977
    Truck Model:
    One-Ton K-10
    Engine Size:
    350/TH350/NP205
    Be sure to put some anti-seize on the studs before putting the lug nuts on.
     
  13. DoubleDingo

    DoubleDingo When In Doubt, Throttle Out

    Posts:
    6,376
    Likes Received:
    5,621
    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2012
    Location:
    Right where I am
    First Name:
    Bagoomba
    Truck Year:
    1981, 1965
    Truck Model:
    81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s; 65-C20 with 4:57 gears and Borg Warner Overdrive
    Engine Size:
    Carb'ed Vortec 350; 1972 L48 350
    The nuts that were on there were the original open type. I am thinking they were the problem not the studs. But the drivers side is all fresh threads now. The new boxed type threaded on the old passenger side studs with no issues whatsoever. I think I had more fun breaking loose the lug nuts on my '65. The impact wouldn't even budge them, so I grabbed the breaker bar used a dead lift motion to loosen them. Doing that while hoping one of them dang spiders didn't bite me...lol...
     
  14. DoubleDingo

    DoubleDingo When In Doubt, Throttle Out

    Posts:
    6,376
    Likes Received:
    5,621
    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2012
    Location:
    Right where I am
    First Name:
    Bagoomba
    Truck Year:
    1981, 1965
    Truck Model:
    81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s; 65-C20 with 4:57 gears and Borg Warner Overdrive
    Engine Size:
    Carb'ed Vortec 350; 1972 L48 350
    Thanks for the tip.
     
  15. DoubleDingo

    DoubleDingo When In Doubt, Throttle Out

    Posts:
    6,376
    Likes Received:
    5,621
    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2012
    Location:
    Right where I am
    First Name:
    Bagoomba
    Truck Year:
    1981, 1965
    Truck Model:
    81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s; 65-C20 with 4:57 gears and Borg Warner Overdrive
    Engine Size:
    Carb'ed Vortec 350; 1972 L48 350
    It's great how thoughts pop in one's head, and then one decides to find a way to bring the thoughts to fruition. What I am referring to is the brief smoking issue upon start-up in the square that will only get worse with time. Had an idea of pulling the heads off the crate engine that was in my '65 and put them on the engine in the '81 square. And almost immediately after that popped in my head, the thought of wrenching off two intakes, four heads from both engines, and then wrenching on two heads and one intake to the '81 engine just didn't make much sense. Too much wrenching when there are fewer bolts to remove an engine. So I thought, why not pull the engine from the square, and put the crate engine in the square. Granted the crate heads must have the umbrella valve seals and not the o-ring valve seals. And since I really like the power band of the square engine, I would pull the cam from it and put it in the crate engine with some new lifters. All of the engine swap is much easier than all the wrenching off a bunch of heads and intakes, and both engines have about the same mileage on them. And then the square engine will get the good stuff like vortec heads and better cam, and thus will go in the '65 later.

    And then I have the dual-in/dual-out Borla exhaust system from the '65 that I can put on the square and still be smog legal.

    Now to pull a valve cover on the crate engine and see if it has umbrella valve seals.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2012

Share This Page