Door Window Install - Killin' Me!!!

[Scott91370]

Anybody have any tips on this? I downloaded the install manual and watched a video 9mine are power the video was manual but the same should apply) and still can't get my windows installed.

Here are the instructions from the service manual:

REMOVE WINDOW
1. Remove ventilator assembly as previously outlined.
2. Slide glass forward until front roller is in line with
notch in sash channel. Disengage roller from channel.
3. Push window forward and tilt front portion of window
up until rear roller is disengaged.
4. Put window assembly in normal position (level) and
raise straight up and out.
5. Reverse above procedure for installation.

I wrote these out so I didn't have to think about it while I was doing it-
INSTALL WINDOW
1. Put window assembly in normal position (level) and lower straight down and in.
2. Push window forward and tilt front portion of window up until rear roller is engaged.
3. Slide glass forward until front roller is in line with notch in sash channel. Engage roller into channel.
4. Install ventilator assembly.


Here's the video. If I get my window regulator that high it gets stuck:

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[Snoots]

If I remember correctly, I had my regulator about 4 inches down from the top to get the trolly (what the glass sits in) to line up with the regulator.

You have to have several cuts on your hands and arms and generated a LOT of colorful language too.

 

[Camar068]

raise the window to the top then I believe its 2 then 1. Tape the window up as high as you can get it (painters tape of scotch tape will hold it). Put 12 volts to the motor to get it to go up close to the top.

Put the center wheel in.....then the back one on the same rail should be close. Then slide forward so you can get the 1 on the bottom in.

Think 21 in 12 out......while in the up position.

 

[BKING33]

I've always removed glass at the full bottom position. The are tricky. I stripped dozens of doors. They always come out easy, but going back in is a mess. Sometimes I unbolt the regulator to help. One trick I do to protect the glass from scratches is put a piece of thin cardboard over glass.

 

[Scott91370]

OK, got the passenger side in. WOW!!! New problem - with the front track adjusted all the way forward and the rear track all the way back it binds when going up. It'll get about 1/2 way then slow down and stop about 3/4. If I take the rubber/felt out it works perfectly.

I tell you what, after al this headache my daughter may not get the truck, I may keep it!!


@Snoots I finally cut my hand - twice!! Maybe that's the key.

 

[Scott91370]

Driver side is all together but same issue, binding. Maybe I'll just roll them up and tell her to deal with it!

 

[Snoots]

Remove the inner panel and look down at the guides where it jams.

Is the metal trolly hitting the guide or is it the glass itself? Also, are you using the original glass? Earlier and non-power windows use thicker glass that may be causing an issue.

 

[Scott91370]

Door panels are still off - at least I have that in my favor.

The trolly doesn't hit, it's almost as if the new felt is too thick. If I pull the felt out they run up/down as smooth as can be but of course then flop around because there is no support.
This is the original glass and metal runners from this tris truck just with replaced felt.

I think I will roll the windows up as far as I can and let everything settle a little. I can do this for a couple of days while I work on other parts, like getting it running again and putting on the new headers. I will report back.

 

[Camar068]

Door panels are still off - at least I have that in my favor.

The trolly doesn't hit, it's almost as if the new felt is too thick. If I pull the felt out they run up/down as smooth as can be but of course then flop around because there is no support.
This is the original glass and metal runners from this tris truck just with replaced felt.

I think I will roll the windows up as far as I can and let everything settle a little. I can do this for a couple of days while I work on other parts, like getting it running again and putting on the new headers. I will report back.

did you soak/spray the new seals with windex or something of the sort to lube? If mine started to slow down, I'd draw it down and spray more windex. Work it up and down.

 

[Raider L]

I've done windows quite a bit as well and I've found to my disgust that GM will change the curvature of the door just slightly year to year. Like I was putting in windows from a Surburban into a C10 from the same year and they would hang 3/4 the way up. We couldn't figure it out and took a lot of measuring to finally see that the door curvature was different and no matter we couldn't change that curve. Then we got a window from a C10 it you could just throw it in and it worked perfectly.

@Scott91370, You could take a rubber mallet and give the door a gentle whack in the area where it hangs. Do it with the window down and also check the door seal and make sure you're not upsetting that. It's kinda tricky, but it works. You know, sometimes you just have to give it a good slap to make things work. That also works with people to.

 

[Scott91370]

Can't hit the truck, it's a fresh paint job. Although at this point I am ready to do something far worse to it.
The windows are original to this truck so the curves are the same, I'm 99% sure it is just the fresh seals being so much thicker. I still had the old set sitting here - all hard as a rock - and compared them. The old set is way thinner.

 

[Raider L]

@Scott91370,

When you look down in the window channel where the seals go, is the window slot look straight? And I don't know how your window seals are but mine clipped into little slots and you bent the little tabs over to fix them in the window slot. If my old memory serves me right. I had to take mine out a time or two and reinstall them to make sure they were up flat against the edge of the window slot. Make sure those seals are flat up against the slot or even part of the seal could be sticking out a bit slowing the window down as you raise it and lower it.

 

[FireTruck1984]

Can't hit the truck, it's a fresh paint job. Although at this point I am ready to do something far worse to it.
The windows are original to this truck so the curves are the same, I'm 99% sure it is just the fresh seals being so much thicker. I still had the old set sitting here - all hard as a rock - and compared them. The old set is way thinner.

I recently did the same type glass/seals replacement.. I lubricated the seals liberally with spray silicone and they now run freely.

 

[Scott91370]

I recently did the same type glass/seals replacement.. I lubricated the seals liberally with spray silicone and they now run freely.

When you say lubricated the seals...do you mean the channel that the window actual runs in? If so, do the windows stay clean or do they smudge a lot? How about tint? One last question (for now), what actual brand/product did you use?

 

[FireTruck1984]

When you say lubricated the seals...do you mean the channel that the window actual runs in? If so, do the windows stay clean or do they smudge a lot? How about tint? One last question (for now), what actual brand/product did you use?

Yes, the window/glass channel. Your new seals should go all the way down into
the channel/track, at first my power windows moved slow and labored but
Moved freely after the silicone lubricant in the channels. I used the WD 40
Silicone spray, and yes the glass stays clean. Also I made many adjustments to the channel before I got it to where it didn’t bind.