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Dash Lights and Power Window Problems

Discussion in 'Electrical & Audio' started by Kirk T, Oct 21, 2019.

  1. Kirk T

    Kirk T Junior Member

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    Joined:
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    Location:
    Georgia
    First Name:
    Kirk
    Truck Year:
    1985
    Truck Model:
    K-10
    Engine Size:
    5.0 V-8
    Good morning - I have a '85 K-10 and replaced many of the gauges and bought a new circuit board. I put in all new gauge light bulbs and they all burn as they should but when I put the black plastic piece that goes behind the clear plastic lens, I get NO light illuminating the gauges. I pulled the dash bezel back off, removed the clear lens and the black plastic piece that goes behind the lens and encircles the gauges and all of the bulbs are burning. I re-installed the black piece and clear lens and it completely blocks out all of the light to the gauges. Turning the headlight switch doesn't help.

    Also, my passenger window works fine with the driver's side switch, but will only go down with the passenger side switch. I replaced the switch and it still will only go down, not up but continues to go up and down from the driver's side switch.

    Any thoughts on my issues as I'm out of ideas.
     
  2. eskimomann209

    eskimomann209 Full Access Member

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    Location:
    Modesto
    First Name:
    Marcus
    Truck Year:
    1973
    Truck Model:
    C10
    Engine Size:
    5.3
    Sounds like a broken wire on the passenger side.
    The gauges.... pics help.
    I notice even mine from a 91 don’t illuminate as bright as one might think. maybe try some LEDs
     
  3. dvdswan

    dvdswan Full Access Member

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    First Name:
    Dave
    Truck Year:
    1978
    Truck Model:
    K10
    Engine Size:
    350
    Is the black plastic piece black on both sides? The side facing the lights/gages should be a light blueish color like the cluster housing.
     
  4. chengny

    chengny Full Access Member

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    Location:
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    First Name:
    Jerry
    Truck Year:
    1986
    Truck Model:
    K3500
    Engine Size:
    350/5.7

    On the dash illumination issue, there should be a gap between the cluster retainer (the black plastic piece that covers the gauges) and the gauges themselves. That gap is how the light from the lamps illuminates the gauges.

    I just looked at an assembled cluster and the gap looks to be about 1/4". I can't imagine how that gap could have been lost. The only thing I can think of is that maybe the retainer is for a non-gauge assembly.


    On the RH window motor only operating in the down direction, no idea.

    The motor is good. The same wiring is used - from the switch to the motor - for both local and remote operation. Power to the switch appears to be available on the PNK - used for local operation - because the motor runs in the down direction. The switch itself is new. The ground path on the TAN is used for both local and remote operation, and since the LH switch will operate the motor in both directions, the ground path is good.

    Read this thread and have your multi-meter handy:

    https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/power-window-problem.21011/#post-398078
     
  5. gmachinz

    gmachinz Harnessworx Inc

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    Location:
    Iowa
    First Name:
    Jabin
    Truck Year:
    1986
    Truck Model:
    K10
    Engine Size:
    350
    Simple terms-the power window circuit is a normally grounded circuit @ rest for all leads except pink, obviously. So on the RH motor, when “up” is requested by either switch, the blue w/white wire goes off ground and gets +12V via the pink-since tan is still grounded, it causes the motor to go up. So, check continuity on that wire @ both the driver switch and passenger switch. My guess is that wire has a break inside the door-cab boot on either or possibly both sides.
     
  6. Kirk T

    Kirk T Junior Member

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    Location:
    Georgia
    First Name:
    Kirk
    Truck Year:
    1985
    Truck Model:
    K-10
    Engine Size:
    5.0 V-8
    Thank you to everyone that took time to help me with these issues. I may try to see if I can very slightly increase the "gap" between the gauges and the retainer somehow. Since it is rarely driven at night I'm not overly concerned but I still want everything to work like it is supposed to work. I will also do the suggested wire continuity and report back.

    Thanks to all.

    Kirk
     

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