dana 44 or 60 for my crewcab

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climb-101

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i was going ron get some opinions on what you guys think i should do. i’m converting my ‘73 crew cab c20 over to a 4wd. i can get either a dana 44 or a 60 for it. the 60 is a $1000 or the 44 is $400.

i plan on running a 4” lift along with a 2” body lift since it’s a 2wd cab. i’m swaping in a 6.0 Ls along with the 4L80 and transfer case out of a 2006 chevy. I’m also hoping a set of 38’s will fit.

I don’t plan on being too rough on the truck and mainly use it for hunting and playing in the snow but don’t want to run into prob down the road and end up tearing up a lot of parts. let me know what you guys think.
 

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here’s some pics of the truck since i didn’t put them in the last post.

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Frankenchevy

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60!!! I’m no expert, but I think 38s are getting big on a stock 44. Im sure it’ll probably hold up fine. You could build it or just start with the 60.

My personal opinion, that truck is too nice to hack up. Just buy a cheap 4x4 and set it up for thrashing. Wheeling a truck that long is just that much harder on it.
 
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climb-101

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60!!! I’m no expert, but I think 38s are getting big on a stock 44. Im sure it’ll probably hold up fine. You could build it or just start with the 60.

My personal opinion, that truck is too nice to hack up. Just buy a cheap 4x4 and set it up for thrashing. Wheeling a truck that long is just that much harder on it.

ya it’s a little on the long side for wheeling but i want a crew for going out hunting. i was looking for a 4wd one but this one was too good of a deal to pass up. I have a set of reverse shackles on the way for the rear and the b-52 setup for the front. plan on putting a crossover steering setup on it and maybe the high steer as wheel. just got to figure out the front end first. i’m leaning toward the 60. i would rather have it stronger then risk breaking it
 

HotRodPC

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This is a Does a Bear **** in the wood question. Meaning, it's an open/shut, black/white, daylight/dark issue as in without a doubt, hands down, no inbetween answer. DANA 60 ALL DAY, EVERY DAY !!! I'd say, if budget isn't an issue, go Dana 60, but in this case, as nice as that truck is, even if budget is an issue, take more time, save up for the Dana 60 because that truck is without a doubt worth the $1000 investment for the 60.
 

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I have a set of reverse shackles on the way for the rear and the b-52 setup for the front.

Make sure you change the front spring hangers on the rear suspension. The 4WD ones are longer than the 2WD. Your pinion angle would be way off.
 

climb-101

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Make sure you change the front spring hangers on the rear suspension. The 4WD ones are longer than the 2WD. Your pinion angle would be way off.

thanks for the info, that good to know. i have a buddy that has a 4x4 one i can steel parts from so i will do some measuring once the parts show up. im sure i could either cut the ones of the parts truck or just make a new set.
 

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Why 60 of course! Especially with plans of crossover steering, that part will be simpler too.
 

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And please understand to truly have a strong D60 you also need to upgrade the stub shafts to D70. Actually we can't get Dana parts anymore so go aftermarket. The D60 stub shafts neck down to the same size as the D44. After that mod you have to get 35 spline locking hubs also.

I'm glad you understand the need for a B52 kit. Seems every other week I'm explaining that the 2x and 4x frames are different and it's not just a matter of switching over parts.

Sorry you can not run 38s without cutting your fenders.
 

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thanks for the info, that good to know. i have a buddy that has a 4x4 one i can steel parts from so i will do some measuring once the parts show up. im sure i could either cut the ones of the parts truck or just make a new set.

Also, I believe the rear spring hangers are different on the C20 3+3 than a standard C20, but don't hold me to that. I owned an '80 C20 3+3 in the mid 90's. I think they are like C/K30's which have the spring sit closer to the frame. I attached what my K30 looks like. If your shocks are inside the frame you'll need 1-ton style.

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My 1980 Pre-paint
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Jrgunn5150

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A 38 is about the threshold where thing's start breaking with power or wheeling.

If you have easy access to a 60, I'd use it. But for a driver, hunting, fishing truck that's not going to see a front locker and serious, high traction wheeling, I'd say a 44 is fine.
 

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Also, I believe the rear spring hangers are different on the C20 3+3 than a standard C20, but don't hold me to that. I owned an '80 C20 3+3 in the mid 90's. I think they are like C/K30's which have the spring sit closer to the frame. I attached what my K30 looks like. If your shocks are inside the frame you'll need 1-ton style.

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My 1980 Pre-paint
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the shocks are inside the frame on mine as well. I sent an email to the guy at diy4x, im assuming at this point that i will be sending back the ones i ordered and getting the setup for the 1 ton. I suppose he can just toss the parts in when when i order the crossover steering stuff.
 

climb-101

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And please understand to truly have a strong D60 you also need to upgrade the stub shafts to D70. Actually we can't get Dana parts anymore so go aftermarket. The D60 stub shafts neck down to the same size as the D44. After that mod you have to get 35 spline locking hubs also.

I'm glad you understand the need for a B52 kit. Seems every other week I'm explaining that the 2x and 4x frames are different and it's not just a matter of switching over parts.

Sorry you can not run 38s without cutting your fenders.

i knew the frames were not the same from the 4x4 to the 2x4. What i didnt know is that the crew cabs have more of a 1 ton frame. Im not opposed to trimming fenders a little to get 38s to fit but i dont really want to cut up the truck. what size tire do you think i can fit under it if i have 5" of suspension lift and 2" body lift?
 

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i knew the frames were not the same from the 4x4 to the 2x4. What i didnt know is that the crew cabs have more of a 1 ton frame. Im not opposed to trimming fenders a little to get 38s to fit but i dont really want to cut up the truck. what size tire do you think i can fit under it if i have 5" of suspension lift and 2" body lift?
As far as Crew Cab having MORE OF a 1 ton frame. It's not More of, IT IS a 1 ton frame, even in the 3/4 ton Crew Cabs. All Crew Cabs are 1 ton frames. Only difference in a 3/4 and 1 ton Crew Cab is the spring hangers and springs to the best of my knowledge, and if that's true, then the spring perch spacing on the rear ends are different as well. On the 4x4 3/4 ton crews, they still got the Dana44/10bolt front axles so again, the spring hangers and springs would be different but the frame is still a 1 ton frame all day long.
 

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i knew the frames were not the same from the 4x4 to the 2x4. What i didnt know is that the crew cabs have more of a 1 ton frame. Im not opposed to trimming fenders a little to get 38s to fit but i dont really want to cut up the truck. what size tire do you think i can fit under it if i have 5" of suspension lift and 2" body lift?
So you're thinking 4" spring and 1" zero-rate? That's a good combo, and with the zero rate you can move your front axle forward an inch and half. This will give you a bit more tire clearance to the back part of the fender opening.

I will never recommend any more than 1" body lift. Any more and eventually the cab will start to jiggle around cause drama, including wearing out the cab mounts. One inch is perfect! You can wash the mud and grit off your frame better, there is more room for pulling the dizzy when that needs to happen.

In order to run 38s you would need drastic fender trimming, sorry to say. With the shape of your truck and all that trim, it would be a crime to chop it up.
You can however run 35s with the 'adjustments' I have suggested. Don't use rims with any more backspacing than 4" or rim width over 8.5" Wider rims and/or less backspacing will only help rubber meet metal.
But even with all this, if you get the truck twisted up and turn the wheel at full stuff you will have metal to rubber grief.
 

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