D44 aftermarket axle shaft companies

[77 K20]

Any of them better than others? Any to stay away from?

So far have looked at Yukon, Revolution, Ten Factory.

Looking for a stronger chromoly replacement vs the 40 year old OEM axle shafts. Running 315s (35") tires and primary purpose is off road.

Getting a D60 isn't an option unless you have one to sell for $1000.

 

[bucket]

How's the price compare between them?

 

[77 K20]

Haven't done a whole lot of price shopping... but seems like:

Yukon: $734 Uses 5-760X Joint limited lifetime warranty
Revolution: Guess Jeep only? Could have sworn I saw it for Chevy D44... must have been a mistake.
Ten Factory MG22172: $568 Uses 5-760X Joint. 10 year warranty
G2 98-2033-006: $700 Uses 5-760X Joint 10 year warranty

Then there is RCV Ultimate: $1,349 They have CV joints that are supposed to be twice as strong as a standard U joint even at extreme angles. But... $$$$$$

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It looks like all the warranties also state that the warranty covers up to a 35" tire- which is what I'm running. (* the RCV warranty is up to a 40" tire)

And as far as I can tell the warranty doesn't include the U joint. And I guess after getting stronger shafts then the next thing that can go is snapping a U joint... especially if the front wheels are turned all the way to one side or the other. The U joint is weakest in that position.

That then brings up the next point. Instead of the 5-760X joints how good are the Yukon Super Joints or the CTM joints. Both say "not recommended for daily driven use". Neither of these use roller bearings. Instead it is a super tight fit with bronze sleeves in the caps and full circle snap rings. The caps have needle zerks in them. They need to stay lubed (which I guess is too often for daily driven rigs). Now here is my question- I have hubs. When "daily driving" my truck the joints won't be turning, right? So only lube them after running 4wd after a hard trip?
Yukon super joints: $235 each
CTM joints: $267 each.

Yeah, getting expensive in a hurry... Basically I'm thinking $1,038 for the Ten Factory axle shafts and the Yukon super joints. But at that price it puts it in pretty close to those RCV Ultimates...

I've never messed with axle shafts before so this is a new area to me. I know of the theory behind them. This was part of the reason I chose the Eaton Trutrac in the front instead of a locker. It is not as stressful for the front axle. (and I can still turn). Along with the differential I've also invested in some Yukon hardcore locking hubs. At this point I already have $850 into my D44.

I've never broken a front axle shaft but did break a 12 bolt rear axle shaft in my old truck with 33" tires. Not fun.

I'm wanting to replace the axle shafts at the same time I buy and install Reid knuckles for it. These are stronger than stock and will allow crossover steer.

 

[CSFJ]

If you're willing to spend that much to upgrade an axle that you've never broken, then why the hesitation to step up to the one ton axle?

 

[77 K20]

I've recently stepped up tire size and have been taking on more challenging trails. So even though I don't just "floor it" thru obstacles I'm thinking an upgrade would be a good idea. Especially if I'm replacing the knuckles anyway.

I priced out a new D60 with the same differential and hubs I have now. It came in at $6,300.

I've looked off and on for the last 2 years for a used D60 around here. I've found trashed ones for $1,500. And those were with the wrong gearing and an open differential.

Kinda hate to start all over and completely rebuild a D60. Not even sure how much it would cost to rebuild one... I'd have to get a new front driveshaft. I have a custom made Tom Woods one now.

Seems like swapping the axle out would open another can of worms.

 

[bucket]

I agree that it makes sense to simply continue with the D44.

Even with locking hubs, the joints get used all the time. Depending on where the shafts park themselves, at least one cross sees use everytime you steer the truck.

 

[bucket]

So if a failed u-joint takes out a shaft, I suppose that's not covered under warranty? Based on that and the lower price, I'd probably go with the Ten Factory shafts. It'd be nice to get some feedback from someone that has actually ran a set of aftermarket shafts.

 

[77 K20]

I agree that it makes sense to simply continue with the D44.

Even with locking hubs, the joints get used all the time. Depending on where the shafts park themselves, at least one cross sees use everytime you steer the truck.

Huh- guess I always figured the hub unlocks the shaft and keeps it from spinning. Guess that's what I get for assuming.

And yes, you are correct. If an u joint fails and takes out the ears of the axle shaft it isn't covered.

And now another dumb question- in my reading it sounds like GM D44 axles used to use 5-297x axle U joints. Since maybe 2002? Spicer came out with the 5-760x. And from what I've read the 760 is better than the 297s. So a 760 would be a cheap upgrade to what I have now...

http://www.fourwheeler.com/product-reviews/131-0212-5-760x-spicer-u-joint-jeeps/

 

[bucket]

You are correct that the shaft doesn't turn. But when you steer the truck, two of the u-joint caps are going to see movement every time. So even with the hubs unlocked, half of each u-joint is going to get wear and tear on it as you drive the truck. I can understand why the bushing type u-joints won't hold up to much normal street driving.

 

[77 K20]

So I just ordered the Ten Factory axles. The axle shafts are stronger than what I have now and the axle U joints are stronger than what I have now. It will have to do- and should work well.

Plus Summit Racing has a promotion right now so I was able to pick them up for $516.87. I wish I could have bought the Reid Racing knuckles also at the same time, but that is another $518 (but on sale for $468). But wait! ORD is having 10% off of their cross over steering kit! Aaarrg.

Ugh... maybe I'll sell a kidney?

 

[bucket]

The kidney can go. You've still got the other one, right?

 

[77 K20]

I installed the Ten Factory axle shafts today. They came with full lock clips instead of the C-clips. First time I have used those.

It was definitely time to change at least the axle u joints. The last few trips out I heard a strange "squeaking/pinging" noise when in 4 low and trying to climb up and over some obstacle. Turns out one U joint was pretty much jammed up- wouldn't pivot on one axis. The other u joint was shot. Massive amount of play.

Everything looked pretty good- but things can't be perfect. Something is "wrong" with the passenger side when I went to install my Yukon hardcore hubs back in. The hub is supposed to use a spacer behind coupler and driver. Well- if I use the spacer then it is impossible to put the c-clip onto the axle shaft as the groove is not visible.

I couldn't move the axle out at all to even show the c-clip groove. So I installed it without the spacer. Seems to work- at least by turning it by hand.

Is this a bad thing?