Cutting down valve guides & reusing head bolts??

[OldBlueDually]

I am working on my Olds 455 for my square build, and I want to cut down the valve guides myself with the arbor and valve guide cutter from comp cams (on a budget build here!).

The valve guides need to be cut down due to the dual coil springs being used which are needed for the cam I am putting in it.

I need to cut my valve guides down to .530 O.D. (currently .575/577 O.D.) for the new valve oil seals to work. (Old seals will not work due to dual valve springs).

After this is done would it be safe to reuse the head bolts, or should I buy new ones? The are $90 for the set of head bolts. To my knowledge this engine has never been apart (1969 engine).

Here are a few pics of the cutter & arbor to do the work. Pics kind of suck....

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[Wumbo]

That's just one thing I can't cheap out on.

ARP bolts go in every head, main, and rod that I build. They're expensive because they're superior to OEM. Especially 50 year old OEM fasteners.

 

[Ricko1966]

In my experience the shop I worked at from 1985- 2000 I guarantee we built a minimum of 3 engines a week.If on a factory rebuild new head bolts were required we put in New head bolts.If new head bolts were not a factory recommendation 99 out of 100 times we reused the head bolts. So in at least 7500 rebuilds I've seen we never had a problem reusing head bolts.

 

[Ricko1966]

Dually I read your post, noticed your doing it DIY on a budget.Idk but have You tried to find a bee hive spring that will work without cutting your guides?If you can find some I think they'd be a better spring, less work and no tools to buy. Just my 2 cents

 

[K10farmtruck]

I rebuilt a 429 ford with used head bolts than proceeded to drive it like a high school kid for 3 years and never had a problem. Sold it to a neighbor who still drives it. Food for thought

 

[Blue Ox]

They're not TTY a.k.a. stretch bolts, a.k.a. Torque to Throw awaY, so you can reuse them. But if you're looking for a lot of horsepower you might want the consider the premium hardware.

 

[HotRodPC]

For an Olds 455, I'd reuse them all day long. They're not Torque To Yield and they'd normally have been resued. HOWEVER, just like you should do on any engine build, I'd make sure the threads were very clean on the bolts. I'd also run a tap in the head bolt holes in the block. This insures there is no distractions in the threads to distort proper measurements from the torque wrench. Past that, I'd carry on and have full faith all will be well provided you use proper torque sequence and a calibrated accurate torque wrench.

Our of curiousity, which Olds heads are you using??? Are you replacing the seats with hardened seats for unleaded fuel?

 

[OldBlueDually]

@Blue Ox Not going for horsepower here….”yet”….for now the engine will be a stock build and nothing fancy. So beyond a cam, and headers it will be a stock engine. I plan to some year find a dual-quad intake for it also, possibly a tunnel ram. Not going for power, but for sound & looks right now.

@Ricko1966 I did actually call up comp cams for a simpler spring like a beehive, unfortunately they said this will not work and the dual coil springs are required. I believe the springs are 430 lbs/in pressure for this cam. So the outer spring has the flat dampener spring coiled inside of it, then the inner spring. I also asked what other springs could work not to run the dual springs and they did not have other options.

@HotRodPC These are stock heads on this engine. I do not exactly know the numbers/letters, but a friend said that this era 455 (1969) was still the higher compression engine, which he said changed in 70 or 71?? As far as I know the seats have never been replaced, heads never off that I know of. This engine came from a car that was used for cruising so not sure what the former owners may have done to it. My dad ran this engine in an ’82 Olds 4-door for many years until I took it from that car and stuffed it into my 51 Ford F-1 Truck and ran the hell out of it for many years in there. It’s been a damned good running engine. Sorry this doesn’t answer the seat question!

 

[HotRodPC]

@Blue Ox Not going for horsepower here….”yet”….for now the engine will be a stock build and nothing fancy. So beyond a cam, and headers it will be a stock engine. I plan to some year find a dual-quad intake for it also, possibly a tunnel ram. Not going for power, but for sound & looks right now.

@Ricko1966 I did actually call up comp cams for a simpler spring like a beehive, unfortunately they said this will not work and the dual coil springs are required. I believe the springs are 430 lbs/in pressure for this cam. So the outer spring has the flat dampener spring coiled inside of it, then the inner spring. I also asked what other springs could work not to run the dual springs and they did not have other options.

@HotRodPC These are stock heads on this engine. I do not exactly know the numbers/letters, but a friend said that this era 455 (1969) was still the higher compression engine, which he said changed in 70 or 71?? As far as I know the seats have never been replaced, heads never off that I know of. This engine came from a car that was used for cruising so not sure what the former owners may have done to it. My dad ran this engine in an ’82 Olds 4-door for many years until I took it from that car and stuffed it into my 51 Ford F-1 Truck and ran the hell out of it for many years in there. It’s been a damned good running engine. Sorry this doesn’t answer the seat question!

You got a good year. Hopefully the heads are too. That should put you at a C head. No NOx bumps in the head, good compression, good flow. Not going for horsepower yet? A 69 Olds 455 comes stock with some hp and a mountain of torque. Hopefully since it's been used already, someone in the past has put the hardened seats in the heads if they C heads. If they are E heads, they're smogger heads and only good thing to say about those is, they'll be unleaded friendly. You can't miss the big letter on the heads. If you didn't know, Small Block Holds have a big # on them for ID, Olds Big Block heads have a big letter for ID. Unlike Chevy, there's only about 5 or 6 diferent Big Block heads and about the same for Small Block heads. Yes, Small Block heads will bolt onto a big block for massive compression, BUT, they don't breathe very well for the cubes.

 

[fast68chevy]

like blue said if its a stock or close to stock motor not a ton of compression oor ton of money into the motor then stock head bolts is fine. originals if in good shape and have never been accidentely over torqued beyond factory specs. if you doknt know or you do know that they have been overtorqued or abused or are visualy and physcially in bad roguh shape threads wise then do replace them or find a good set off a parts motor. and you will want to chase the threaded holesin the block deck with a good chaser mak sure thy ar very clean and use non hardening hi-temp sealer(gray paste) on the threads and motor oil on the bolt heads seats.

 

[C10MixMaster]

I've reused lots of head bolts with 0 problems. Just check them to make sure they are not stretched, if you find 1 bad one shitcan the rest.

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[OldBlueDually]

@HotRodPC I took a look at the heads, they are C style heads on it. If This engine needs hardened seats on the exhaust valves, I suppose now the heads have to go to a machine shop to get this done?

@fast68chevy I will be sure to check threads, HotRod mentioned the same thing too.

@C10MixMaster I certainly planned to check for any sign of stretching, and that was the plan if I found one to toss them all and get new ones.

I did do an engine build many ages ago (for my '80 Olds Delta88 Royal Brougham, two door) which was a '73 350 Olds Rocket. I tore this one down, and sent the heads & block to the machine shop, it was bored, line bored, each piston fitted to each cylinder, new cam....heads re-done...etc. Anyhow, this was a spendy build. Dad and I put it together, but the machining costs and parts cost...man I coulda built a very nasty 350 chevy for way cheaper, but what fun would have that been

 

[HotRodPC]

Those are good performing heads. Do the valves looked recessed now? You mentioned that engine was used in an 82 something. If they are not recessed now and they were used in 82, then there's a good chance someone already had the hardened seats installed. But yes, if they are NOT hardened seats, they'll need to go to a machine shop. If they were used in 82 for any length of time at all and didn't recess the valves, I'd say they're good to go already.

If you're running C heads and a cam big enough to need dual springs, this is gonna be a running pullin' bitch. I've let 2 good Big Block Olds opportunities get away from. A 67 Olds 425 and a 69 455. Just like so many other fantastic ops I've that never panned out due to negative issues. I'll be watching this one for sure. Certainly hope it gets done.

 

[Ricko1966]

If the heads need hardened seats, and other work I'd compare price on new aluminum heads.Id also compare your cam specs to and eldebrock performer plus cam which which won't require head mods.Big Block olds makes power down low you don't have to wind them to make big power.

 

[HotRodPC]

If the heads need hardened seats, and other work I'd compare price on new aluminum heads.Id also compare your cam specs to and eldebrock performer plus cam which which won't require head mods.Big Block olds makes power down low you don't have to wind them to make big power.

Ad you don't really want to wind them up either. Consider 6000 rpm your red line. The occasional 6500 rev probably won't hurt but their rotating assembly is so heavy, they will come apart at high rpm if you don't do things like stud and girdle the mains and such.