Discussion in 'Tech Discussion' started by Iowan, Oct 17, 2016.
So what is your favorite
This ought to be good for a hundred pages, LOL.. I use both just depends on what it's going in..
agree. Wifes car synth. My truck GTX high mileage synth blend unless regular GTX is having a super sale then I'll get it.
I won't use syn in the motor, but I use it in the rear end.
Seriously, why use a synthetic in an engine that wasn't designed for it? Closest I'll go is Castrol GTX High Mileage oil for my truck. My bike gets Rotella 15w-40.
Oooo my 3rd post is making a difference in the world!! So if I have a currently synthetic oiled truck (not my choice) and change to conv. will it hurt my favorite (and only) truck? Or is a synthetic blend better?
It can get very cold here in the winter. Ever try adding a quart of conventional oil when it is -10 degrees? Even at 10 above it pours like honey.
Synthetic will flow right in.
Synthetic for me.
This x 1000.
The biggest issue, is whatever you use, always make sure the oil level is full and change it at regular intervals.
I only use synthetic because the Amsoil Z-Rod (high-zinc formula) is synthetic.
Unless you live in a super cold place then a conventional oil should be just fine for one of these old trucks that was designed for conventional oil. Newer cars that require synthetic oil? You should use that!
Currently running conventional, but considering switching to synthetic when engine gets rebuilt.
Havoline Conventional 10w30 is all I run in mine. Being that the Midwest can't get Chevron Delo except in 5w40 synthetic and 15w40 weights. My dad retired with Chevron and was a chemical/oil engineer for them and helped with the buying of Texaco's oil division. So it's been our families opinion of the best oil for our needs.
Hopefully to simply clear the air on synthetics. As long as you have good ring seal and cylinder pressures remain healthy, there is no drawback to using a full synthetic. Once you know the actual differences between that and Dino oil it becomes much easier to decide. The two biggest things to know between the two are:
Film strength and Rate of evaporation.
Dino oil has a film strength (ability to resist being squeezed out from between two metal surfaces i.e. bearing/journal) of 350 psi whereas synthetic such as Mobil 1 and Amsoil is 1200.
Rate of evaporation refers to the temperature at which oil begins to oxidize or breakdown. Dino oil begins to oxidize @ 260F and synthetic @ 600F.
Dino oil is considered a Group III hydrocracked oil and its molecules are all different shapes/sizes. Synthetic is small and uniform in size so it "appears" to cause leaks when in reality you really just need better engine sealing materials.
So conventional has won me. now what brand? (can't sped a ton of money.) I need something that works in a -15 below weather and in 110 degree weather ( these are at most extreme conditions. and at good price point. thanks.
Some people swear by certain brands of oil... Pennzoil, Valvoline, Castrol, whatever... However, keep in mind that there are only a few companies that actually make the base oils, and while there are different additive packages on different oils, they all meet the requirements, specifications, etc.
As long as you practice regular oil change intervals none of that stuff matters all that much for a naturally aspirated (not turbo/supercharged) daily driven regular vehicle. Whether it says Quaker or Havoline or O'Reilly on the label won't affect you. Go with what's the cheapest and/or on sale and save your money for stuff that's actually important.
Even with my employee discount at O'Reilly auto parts I find that Walmart is still often cheaper for oil. Whether you go for their house brand "Supertech" or a name brand oil that's on sale you can't go wrong with getting oil at Walmart.
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