The cost is somewhat prohibitive for the process and if there is one thing I would recommend buying second hand (but in good shape) would be the motor if you can. Setting aside the parts you will spend upwards of about 500 plus dollars believe it or not and even then you need to make sure that the other parts for the window rail are in good shape (like the slide rails, roller tracks, and the tailgate window seals (inner and outer)). The new motors are really weak from most accounts and don't seem to do a good job of rolling the window up, much less down, and counter to what you might think, on the electric regulator it is spring loaded to to counter the weight of the window so the motor doesn't have to work so hard rolling up. Also, I would just skip installing the dash switch. Sure it is a luxury, but if you stop and think about it, chances are high if you are rolling the window up or down you are going to be opening the tailgate or putting something in the back, so if you are there, you can already just use the key switch and if it is all working well it rolls up or down in seconds. The inside electric switch can be found but there are no OEM ones so if you can find the housing I can tell you where to buy the switch. Not sure about the relay wiring to be fair because I actually just stomped mine by accident (while removing the body harness ironically) so I just ran a fused 10 gauge wire direct to it and in spite of what I thought it doesn't seem to help much to improve it's efficiency, but it is possible a higher gauge wire may help some (I doubt it though considering the motor pigtail only has 10 gauge leads) or the OEM motor really is just that much better. When I hooked the 10 gauge up directly I thought the window would fly up and down... Not the case so just a warning.
The motor I got was a cardone unit and I seem to recall it was very nice and new looking but I only paid about 70 bucks for it. I notice newer motors now cost 100+, so I figure if you can find the used motor in a salvage yard you will save a ton of money and it will probably work better, but to be fair I still need to replace my slide rails and rollers so that may have a ton to do with it as well.
Long story short here is your planned parts list for just the window rolling parts.
1 - motor (mounting screws will be needed get a working used one if you can, it will be cheaper and oem motors are almost always stronger. You can also take it apart some and clean and lube it if you are careful)
1 - jack screw assmebly (mounting screws will be needed)
1 - electric regulator (probably be able to use the mounting hardware off the old manual one)
1 - jack screw drive cable
1 - keyed switch assembly (mounting hardware may or may not be included)
1 - key escutcehon (You may be able to use the mounting hardware for the original manual escutcheon)
other parts you might need are
2 - glass channels (LH and RH) (side rails that align the window while going up and down - probably want to replace bolts because mine broke when I went to remove them)
2 - rollers with rivets (goes on the end of the regulator in the sliding metal channel that the window sits on)
1 - glass setting rubber (rubber sleeve that the window sits on and allows the channel to not vibrate and it snugs the glass up once installed - your old one will probably be rotted and ruined when you go to take the window out and it will bang around in the channel if you dont replace it. I was able to use some pliers and pinched the channel down to where it clamped on to the glass but I gotta figure it's not good for the glass and may cause it to shatter. Alternatively if you are thrifty you might be able to use some bike tire tubes but last I checked the rubber strip is actually cheaper so if you got kids with bikes maybe you have some old blow tubes. I didn't, lol
The manual is cheaper to fix or all out replace the electric if that matters to you and like I said, just not my opinion but I have heard others mention it seems like the new motors that are in the parts stores now days are garbage, but before I do that I am going to rebuild my tracks and the other sliding parts, just as insurance to make sure it's not the root of the problem and they will be useful for the manual conversion just as well. It would be nice to keep the electric window if it can work well. I always hated having to roll my window up manually in my 77 Jimmy.
