Discussion in 'Differential & Driveline' started by AuroraGirl, Jun 6, 2020.
I'm looking to reduce some rotational mass, and I got this
You can remove the shoes but they aren't rotational mass. And you should be able to remove the drum as well, as it doesn't do anything other than braking. But it may mess with the harmonics and general nature of how the hub rotates as that weight would no longer be present.
Pull the shoes and hardware for the shoes out and be done with it. You aren't gaining much from it anyways. People have had pickup box trailers forever and never did anything like that, cut the truck up weld on a hitch, make sure the diff has fluid and go.
The best route is to get a trailer axle and bolt it straight to the leaf springs and go. I would also probably want to put new shock mounts on the trailer axle to retain shocks. Get one without brakes and a good load rating and then all you have to worry about is the hub service. And the only rotation mass is the hubs and wheels. And trailer axles will probably weigh less in total as well.
I know they are a better option, but this is free. I asked about the hubs because looking at it(never had drums off before), I would say the drum has to be on for it to seal the axle. Im no expert. Im going to seal up the shaft, put fluid in, and use it as is
You can probably take the drums off. The studs are going to be the issue. You'll either need shorter ones, or some kind of spacer so things all fit.
Otherwise the procedure is straightforward. Pull the hubs and press, or beat, the studs out. Then the drum will come off. You should probably pull the hubs off and drain that brown gack out of the bearings anyway.
The hubs seal against the axle cone. And the drums just mount on the hubs basically.
The spinning differential gear set splashes enough oil up the axle tubes to keep the bearing lubed. Without this, the oil for the bearings will drain out. Over time they will run dry.
I would plug the axle tube hole with a large freeze plug or rubber plug. Then pull the hub bearings for cleaning as stated. Pack them with quality wheel bearing grease.
Either make axle caps to bolt on, or cut the axles flush to make the cap. Bolt that on with a gasket or sealant.
Brown gack is just nature's Lucas additive.
Oh, I didnt realize the drum was seperate. It was so rusted to it, it just kinda looked like a solid piece. Do you not have to remove the wheel bearings to remove the drum, then? If so, I will do that. If the drums are good i can resurface for next brake job on the square, because one of mine has been soaked in brake fluid for 10 years and probably doesnt wear very even lol.
Best way to pull it off? puller? sledge? I dont want to ding it up
Oh my bad, I missed this. Hmm. I think I might go the route of removing the shoes and hardware. I have 1 new drum in a box from carquest, I think i will just mate it or resurface my old ones if they are in spec.
It had the consistency of water, smelled like burnt beaver, and isnt very.. oily. Like, it rained and the stain is barely on my cement.
That actually leads me to another consideration, do you gentlemen think this draft tube being broken(not sure how) has let water and debris and other contaminents in?
I actually do need to do some changes, mostly on bolt length. I will be making a thread about the subject elsewhere, but what is important is my washers I had to use to get the length correct required me to take some out to put wheel on.. didnt have correct sized washers in that quantity. but for now, works. so far, not bad on leaks. Also dont judge me, I put black spray paint over everything when I had some left over, even the tire! Better than dirty!
So many questions come to mind....
Lol, yeah. I can only imagine what burnt beaver smells like
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