Camshaft

[Ontheboulder]

You haven't misled me you just don't understand camshafts. If it's got a lope and not meant for top end power it's a poser cam, it makes all the noise of a good cam without all the pesky extra horsepower. It's a compromise they make a cam that doesn't make all the power it could because they move the valve timing so it will sound fast. So you leave horsepower on the table so you can have cool sounding exhaust

Cam Thump — What It Is & Why We Love It - EGNation Blog

Understanding what makes a cam thump requires looking at some key camshaft characteristics: duration, valve overlap, and lobe separation angle.

egnation.com

well I am not looking for any great top end power. but i do want to hear a bit of a lope, If it will run to town, sound good doing it and get around up here without any drastic issues then it will be fine. Durability and longevity will be my key things as well, I don't need extrodinary HP. just want it to sound good and move along decently I understand what you have been trying to get me to understand and I am glad that you have helped me. This build will most likely just be ago to town for a run or up the logging roads, maybe even to a car show in town nothing extreme.

 

[Ricko1966]

Got it. I'm sorry,I was looking for BEST combination of parts to optimize HP. Didn't realize our goals were not the same,even so I think the TBI heads will be a big improvement over stockers, they are a dirt cheap 64cc head you'll gain about a point of compression,same size chambers as double humps and I always think the compression bump on the smog motors was at least 1/2 of the reason for the performance gain when you went double hump.

 

[xm20k]

The big issue is anything in the RV/towing range, so it runs good but isn't stock isn't going to sound like anything but stock. And yes the heads will bump the CR and add power so there is that. Add a set of headers mabey some glass packs it'll sound good it just won't have that rumity rump.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Hopefully I haven't mis- led you on the cam shaft, not looking for a radical camshaft just something with a little lope and attitude. this will definitly be a mild motor. Cam headers and carb just about it. the aluminum heads looked nice but I wouldn't put them on anything without decking the block and the heads for a good seal.NOt looking to get that carried away with this thing!!LOL!!! when I get the heads I will send you more info on them, and since I haven't pulled a head yet to see just what I have for pistons I will wait on the camshaft till then.If this is a 74 motor I think the owner previous to the guy I bought from may have rebuilt it before he passed away.

When I got Crusty Biscuit it had a lopey cam. Truck was gutless. Still is really. It had smogger heads. I had the heads redone from a different engine, a goodwrench crate engine, and swapped in a 300hp/327 cam, no more lope, smooth idle, runs way better.
Edit: I am pretty sure the engine in Crusty is a 305, because it performs like no 350 I've ever experienced, but the different cam and heads did make a huge difference from the lopey cam and smogger heads.

Same cam in my 81, but it has vortec heads. Runs very strong!

 

[Bextreme04]

I will just throw this out there.

The engine has never been rebuilt if it still has the original stamping numbers on the front(at least not fully). If you want a slightly rowdy engine with a good rowdy sound, I would get a set of the recommended flo-tek aluminum heads and pair it with that summit K1222 roller cam kit I recommended earlier. The roller cam will have a more aggressive profile from the start and it also switches you over to the LS firing order, which is easier on the engine.

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Heads will make the biggest difference in both sound and performance on your engine. The low compression and terrible smogger head chamber design is going to kill everything. The swirl ports are better and you can get some decent performance from them in low RPM truck application, but the aluminum ones will perform better EVERYWHERE in the RPM range and give you the ability to switch to a roller setup with more lift. You'll pay an extra $700 in the parts up front, but you'll have a MUCH better performing engine and might end up saving you money if you find out those "slightly used" heads are actually all worn out or have a crack in them.

 

[Ontheboulder]

I will just throw this out there.

The engine has never been rebuilt if it still has the original stamping numbers on the front(at least not fully). If you want a slightly rowdy engine with a good rowdy sound, I would get a set of the recommended flo-tek aluminum heads and pair it with that summit K1222 roller cam kit I recommended earlier. The roller cam will have a more aggressive profile from the start and it also switches you over to the LS firing order, which is easier on the engine.

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Heads will make the biggest difference in both sound and performance on your engine. The low compression and terrible smogger head chamber design is going to kill everything. The swirl ports are better and you can get some decent performance from them in low RPM truck application, but the aluminum ones will perform better EVERYWHERE in the RPM range and give you the ability to switch to a roller setup with more lift. You'll pay an extra $700 in the parts up front, but you'll have a MUCH better performing engine and might end up saving you money if you find out those "slightly used" heads are actually all worn out or have a crack in them.

thanks for the info!! Like I told Ricko1966 i am not looking for a high HP motor , just something that sounds good and runs decent, the rig will rarely see 4500 RPM. a few runs to town to cruise around and maybe a car show and then a run or two up the mountain. Back in the day when I was a lot younger I would have gone for the high HP thing but the wallet won't allow too much of the stuff required!!! I will see what these heads I am going for look like and if they are what the guy says then they should work good enuf, If they are junk looking then I wasted a full day driving to go to check them out, fingers crossed!! the project is a M715 Jeep Kaiser body on a Chevy K30 frame so definetly not a racer

 

[Ricko1966]

Okay guys I have the answer. Pick the best cam for the engine,but use gear drive for blower whine and a wiper motor hooked to cruise control chain for blower surge!!!! Make a 250hp target motor sound like this.

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[xm20k]

I've never seen bare carbs do that, I've always seen it as a bi product of running an Enderle or other large butterfly equipped injector/throttle body, but I guess the throttle plates in the carbs could do it as well, same principle. It is just sucking the plates open and closed after all.

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[Ontheboulder]

Went and got the heads. This set is redone, new stainless valves and heavy springs

 

[Ontheboulder]

The other set, one run for camshaft break in. Also got another set of springs, rockers and new push rods. And edlebrock performer intake and new harmonic balancer. 650.00 thoughts, opinions, Ideas?

 

[Ontheboulder]

Casting numbers, orange set

 

[Ontheboulder]

Casting numbers, black set

 

[xm20k]

A set of 193s typically sell in stock form for 600 a pair so not bad for a rebuilt set with screw in studs and a stock set with brake in springs plus all the other stuff.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Went and got the heads. This set is redone, new stainless valves and heavy springs

Heavy springs, from what I understand, don't play well with flat tappet cams. May want go with a more stock spring.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Nice find on the two sets of heads