Camshaft flexibility for 1978 350

[Big10-1978]

Good Morning everybody!

I am looking at getting a cam for my completely stock 350 engine in my 1978 Chevy C10 Big Ten truck. I want something that will work now, but also work with my future 383 built stroker engine with Edelbrock E-Street Cylinder Heads 5089 and Edelbrock Performer EPS intake.

Plan is to build the motor later, but in the meantime do cam, heads, intake, exhaust that will all work now and later.

1) Is the below a good cam that I can use now and in the future build?
2) Do I need or should I purchase anything else like valve springs, timing set, etc. while I am in there or is it OK to wait for that when I do heads/intake.


Brand:COMP Cams
Manufacturer's Part Number:CL08-503-8
Part Type:Camshaft Kits
Product Line:COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kits
Summit Racing Part Number:CCA-CL08-503-8

UPC:036584068617
Cam Style:Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range:1,800-5,800
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:224
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:230
Duration at 050 inch Lift:224 int./230 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:276
Advertised Exhaust Duration:281
Advertised Duration:276 int./281 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.503 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.510 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.503 int./0.510 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):112
Grind Number:CS XR276HR-12
Computer-Controlled Compatible:No
Lifters Included:Yes
Lifter Style:Hydraulic roller

Thanks,
Derrick

 

[hirschdalechevy]

Not the way to go imo.

Just pick up a summit 1748 cam and lifters and your 350 will be happy. that set is about 130.00, (the price of a fun night out), then when you do your 383 you can pick out a better cam that works with your compression ratio, head flow, etc.....

If it was me I would just start getting the parts you want as you go then do the build all at once.

 

[Big10-1978]

I know what you are saying, and I agree. It went from a small rebuild/upgrade to a full on $6-7K build real fast. I was hoping to slowly get into this paying a little at a time.

Thanks for the feedback!

 

[QBuff02]

If you want to upgrade your 350 then upgrade your 350. But as mentioned, start accumulating parts for your end goal of a 383. And if you want to play now, buy an off the shelf cam and gasket set and install it. Any cam you put in your engine now is either going to be too big or mismatched for your current application. And if you're thinking in 350 cubes, the cam you pick to end up as the lifeblood of a 383 would surely disappoint you. Think of the engine as an air pump, so a cam that might be on the edge of being **** and too big in a 350, will end up quite mild mannered in a 383 given the volume and cubic inch differences between a 350 and a 383, especially since you're going the route of aftermarket heads on the 383. The only benefit you have is you're going roller by the above mentioned cam, but depending on what you want to do with the truck I think the cam you have selected is a little on the small side especially for a 383 in a roller cam set up. but then again, if a good street engine is what you're after that cam would be close to the wheelhouse. Personally i'd go with a couple more degrees of duration @ .050 for a 383 but that depends on your compression ratio as well. Back to the above mentioned.. I have to agree- Buy a cheap off the shelf hydraulic flat tappet cam for now if you want to have fun. But don't sink a bunch of money into an engine that's going to be torn down and made bigger when you turn it into a 383.

 

[MikeB]

The CL08-503-8 cam is for 1986-up factory roller cam blocks, also known as "one piece main seal" blocks.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/COMP...yd-Roller-Camshaft-Kit-GM-305-350,222838.html

Comp probably has a "retro-fit" cam for earlier blocks, but they get very expensive with the required special lifters.